Cruising the Lake Erie Islands

[David in Sandusky]

Thursday, Day 8, we slept in to 8, awaking to a fine WNW wind. With coffee in the thermos from the night before, we ate a quick breakfast, and were under weigh at 9:10 for Leamington. Once we got the sails up, we were on a beam reach, sailing around 6 knots. When we are that close to hull speed of 6.2 knots, the stern wave rises up and we get a little water up through the cockpit drains. It’s a sure sign we are really moving!

After about an hour, the wind piped down a little, and we were making 4 to 5 knots under sunny skies. Another great sail, all the way to Leamington. We were greeted at the dock by marina staff at 11:50. Ken, an organizer of the Great Lakes Cruising Club (“GLCC”) welcomed us, a let us know of the impromptu pizza dinner for early arrivals. We settled in had some lunch, then Joanne, the Admiral, took our stash of Canadian coins and headed for the laundry while I set up our bikes.

Soon, Ken arrived after a 5 hour sail from West Harbor, Catawba Island, in his Catalina 30, happy to have beat his buddy Alansails with Eileen on their Catalina 310. They tied up on either side of us, and we have continued this and many other conversations since then.

We shared pizza and lots of sea stories with the 9 early arrival boats ( of the 18 boats and 43 folks expected.) Then it was off to bed and peaceful sleep.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Friday, Day 9, was a GLCC day at the Leamington Marina. It’s been around 14 years since we were here, and it’s simply glorious. The manager and crew are unfailingly courteous and helpful. And Leamington is making major investments in entertainment and services on the waterfront. Consider Leamington a must visit!

We biked into town for a few supplies, but plan the big shop on Sunday before we leave for the Islands. We had fun and informing conversations with GLCC members during the day, and at a visit to Cooper’s Hawk Winery for dinner. None of their wines moved us to a purchase, but we had a good time there.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Saturday, Day 10. Fun and games at Leamington. The Leamington Lions Club provided a pancake breakfast. Funny games hosted by the GLCC team in the afternoon, then cocktails and an Italian dinner in the shelter. Capped off with a dance party. This crowd does know how to party! We danced and danced, but when we tried a slow dance, it turned out to be a sure way to re-injure my groin pull! So it was off to bed.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Sunday, Day 11, we got ready for up to three days on the hook. Shopped for food, although we still have a good larder, we needed some eggs, bread, and other supplies. Filled up the water, pumped our waste, and topped up our diesel. Then we headed south to anchor off the north end of Pelee. We had an easy motor sail with light winds on our nose the whole way, and lots of haze. Dropped the hook at noon, and settled in for a hot day on the hook. Advantages of being on the hook are a natural flow to air off the cooler water through the boat, and being able to jump into the water when it gets hot.

The disadvantage is the wakes of the freighters as they pass 5 Miles to the north. These were small 1-2 foot wave sets be the time they reached us, but as the wind shifted to the SW and even the WSW a couple of them hit us broadside, and gave us a good rocking!

 

[David in Sandusky]

Here is a view of Scudders Marina and it’s approach from our anchorage.

 

[jssailem]

Thank you David.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Sunset through the haze, north of Pelee.

 

[jssailem]

A Magic time of day. Red sky at night sailors delight.

 

[Alansails]

Some say Best Sunsets on the Great Lakes!

 

[David in Sandusky]

Monday, Day12, S/SW winds combined with forecasts of storms meant that we returned to a secure slip at Scudders for another brutally hot day. At the hottest point, before 5 o’clock refreshments, we walked to the beach west of the marina, and jumped into the lake. After sunset, the predicted thunderstorms showed up with 20+ knot winds from the east, so we battened down the hatches, and enjoyed the cooler air whole we slept.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Tuesday, Day 13, we got a slow start, departing for an anchorage at North or Middle Bass Island in 15-20 kt NE winds. After we rounded Point Sheridan, Pelee sheltered us from the 1-3 foot waves, and we sailed for the channel between North and Middle Bass making 5 to 6 kts on a broad reach. The sun came out as we reached the channel. The wind had slowed to push us at 4-4.5 kts, while the waves past Pelee were up to 1-3 feet again.

As we headed to check out Manila Bay on the west side of North Bass, we saw a solitary white pelican flying east through the channel. I guess these great birds are making the Erie Islands a new summer home!

Manila Bay looked great, with the high water allowing us to go farther into the bay. But we saw evidence of a surge on the ENE wind, and decided not to chance it.

Next, we checked out the anchorage between Sugar Island, and Middle Bass. We spent a good night there in similar NE winds about 10 years ago, protected from the waves by a semi-submerged old breakwater. Well, the higher water took the old breakwater out of play, and there were 2 footers even at the head of the bay.

So we continued south to the bay on the SW corner of Middle Bass. Like Goldilocks, the third alternative turned out to be just right! We anchored off a green stretch of undeveloped land, and settled in for a sunny afternoon on the hook. We had a great view from the Peace Monument on South Bass through the islands to the west. We were far enough north of the approach to Put-in-Bay from the west that passing boats and ferries only caused a gentle rocking for us. The sky clouded up so we couldn’t see the sun as it set, but the clouds above us and to the north and south were beautifully illuminated.

Rain came as we turned in, and once again in the early morning. But unlike the night before, there was no lightning, or high winds. The cool lake waters have quieted every storm as it came over the lake except for Monday night.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Here is the beach at Manila Bay;

 

[kappykaplan]

Great stuff, David. Tks for sharing.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Wednesday, Day 14, we got up after a great night on the hook. After our bacon, eggs, toast and coffee breakfast, we got under weigh for Seaway Marina in a brisk ENE wind. Rounding the south end of Middle Bass on the main and the engine was easy. But as we emerged into the NE entrance to Put-in-Bay, and headed for the marked channel south of Ballast Island, the wind and three foot waves were right on our bow, and we slowed to 1.5-2 kts! The solution was to tack east and then north which got our speed up to 2.5-3.5.

After a 30 minute slog, we turned SSE at the Green #5 buoy, and were off on a sleigh ride to the west end of Kellys Island. With our 110 genny reefed about 15%, we made between 5.5 and 6.8 kts on a beam reach. We were taking the waves on the beam, too, but Lady Lillie rides the waves well, and the high coach roof keeps us (mostly) dry. This kind of sailing is fun!

The waves died down, and we were back to motorsailing on the main as we rounded the west end of Kellys and headed toward Seaway. Their communications about where they wanted us to tie up were very unclear, and when we realized they wanted us to tie up next to the gas dock, we objected, and they gave us a berth on the wall to the east of the entrance. We reconfigured for a marina stay, and checked in, then settled into the cockpit with our books on a sunny afternoon. We decided to shower before going out to dinner. To our surprise, we discovered the the showers require 6 quarters! We were told nothing of this change when we checked in, and I politely objected with the lady in the store who said we had a point, and gave us 12 quarters.

After our shower, we walked to the Village Pump for the best fried perch on the lake, and followed it with a shared brandy Alexander for dessert.

We walked home to a fine sunset, and turned in early.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Thursday, Day 15. Our plan for the weekend was for my oldest daughter, her husband, and their children to join us Friday through Sunday, camping at the State Park on the north side of Kellys. We hoped to anchor on the north side, but could take them sailing from there or from Seaway. But as we watched the forecast both Wednesday, and Thursday morning, it called for rain most of Friday, all of Saturday, and continuing into Sunday. A rain shower or two is one thing, but camping in continuous rain is hardly attractive. So we agreed to cancel this plan.

The Admiral and I then decided to take advantage of the ENE wind and sunshine to return to Sandusky Harbor Marina, and end our trip. We left around 11, doing 5+ kts as we sailed to Cedar Point. Another great sail! As we entered the channel into Sandusky Bay, the wind slacked off and we ended up sailing wing on wing across the bay at 2.5 to 3.5 kts, enjoying the views, the wind, the water, and Joanne’s last lunch of pepperoni sausage and cheese on rye crisp bread. We arrived at 1, pumped out, and returned to our slip. We enjoyed our 15 days together in the islands! I’ll share some of our thoughts and conclusions tomorrow.

 

[dirt rd]

Enjoyed your posts. No aggressive schedule. Nice and easy.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Lessons learned or confirmed and observations during our 15 days in the Lake Erie Islands.

1. Confirmed that sailing an archipelago is great! There was always a destination that fit the wind, and shelter when we wanted it.
2. Confirmed that having time to choose when to move meant that most (6 out of 7) of our moves were with favorable, very enjoyable winds.
3. Learned that the Great Lakes Cruising Club rendezvous at Leamington is a great event in one of the best marinas on the lake.
4. Saw white pelicans on Lake Erie! Who knew?
5. Confirmed that we always pack too many clothes. Shorts are usually good for 2 or 3 days, undershirts may not be needed on hot summer days. One reasonably dressed up (in a nautical way) outfit is enough.
6. Learned that our water, fuel, waste, and food storage are easily good the the first 5 days, but once our initially frozen foods thaw, we may need to restock ice daily.
7. Confirmed that in the early summer, cool lake waters knock the power out of most storms, eliminating lightning from 75-80% of storms that looked nasty approaching over land. About half were reduced to drizzle and winds (or less) by the time they got to us.
8. Confirmed that sunsets on the water are mostly beautiful.
9. Learned that wind direction can keep us out of favored anchorages, even with over two weeks of opportunities. (We missed the north side of Kellys and Manila Bay in particular.)
10. We learned that the wakes of passing lakers makes the otherwise perfect (in S, SW, or SE winds) north side of Pelee an undesirable anchorage.

Confirmed that Joanne and I love to cruise like this together!

Fair winds and following seas to you!

 

[jssailem]

An enjoyable experience. Thank you for chronicling the adventure.

 

[Tod]

One big difference I've found between sailing on the Chesapeake Bay from, say the Choptank south, and the area around the Lake Erie Islands, is that in light air, the Chesapeake gets nice and glassy calm due to the very low numbers of powerboaters and the sailing is exquisite. On Lake Erie in light air the power boaters are usually out in droves turning the water into a rock-and-roll event that continually knocks the wind out of your sails.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Tod, on a summer weekend in the waters south of and around South Bass, you are certainly right. During the week it’s a different story. Most of the powerboaters are fishermen who anchor when they get to their target fishing ground. So there are far fewer wakes then. At any time, sailing north of Middle Bass to North Bass or Pelee is usually quite free of wakes.

On a trip of over 10 nm in flat water, we are usually motor sailing, so we seldom notice the issue. This was the case on our Leamington to Pelee leg on this trip.