This showed up on Facebook. Copper bars instead of wire. I would think the jerky motion of the boat under weigh could damage the battery posts unless the batteries are TOTALLY confined with zero movement. No?
This showed up on Facebook. Copper bars instead of wire. I would think the jerky motion of the boat under weigh could damage the battery posts unless the batteries are TOTALLY confined with zero movement. No?
Shouldn't the temperature connection be under the bar? otherwise it won't be reading correctly.
I just had to ask .................... how does this affect applied torque ? Either too much or too little ?Trojan has shortened the height of threaded terminals because people were ignoring torque specs too often.
According to Trojan too much and snapping the longer studs off. They "claim" they see less broken studs with shorter studs than longer. Course both the tall version and short version are 5/16"... Perhaps just a way for them to shave .0002 cents off each battery. It has been a real PITA because special ordering T105's with different terminals is more expensive and I can't just grab them out of standard stock...I just had to ask .................... how does this affect applied torque ? Either too much or too little ?
Makes sense to me .................... shorter studs, only half the thread on the nut is engaged, thread strips, and excessive torque is avoided. Maybe a bit of a problem with stripped threads on the studs, but no more broken studs.They "claim" they see less broken studs with shorter studs than longer.
Doesn't make sense to me at all. Since the battery studs are a more malleable alloy (probably a lead alloy) and the nuts are steel (probably stainless) it would strip the stud first as you said. But then, you still have a battery connect that has to be jury rigged to use somehow since the stud is stripped. You just can't slap on a new nut and call it good. You'd have to re-thread the stud, put on a smaller nut or figure some other way to get a solid connection. However, I can't imagine a competent engineer would design it to intentionally not allow full thread engagement with normal installation. If so, the engineer should go back to school. More likely they are designing with full thread engagement and a short stud trying to limit the number of connections by not giving you enough length to keep stacking lug on lug. Or like Maine said, to save a few pennies. Of course this assumes the installer cares about thread engagement at all anyway, which in the case shown above he obviously does not. I really can't imagine that an engineer would design it so that you can't thread the nut completely on the stud with the correct lug on the battery. Consider the consequences if the nut came off and you lost something critical at a critical point. An expert witness would have a field day with that one in a liability courtroom, not to mention the unhappy customers stripping studs and calling the company. As Maine said, the nut should either have a lock washer under it or be a locking nut. You can use a lock washer with partial thread engagement but you can't use a locking nut that way.Makes sense to me .................... shorter studs, only half the thread on the nut is engaged, thread strips, and excessive torque is avoided. Maybe a bit of a problem with stripped threads on the studs, but no more broken studs.
I believe the studs are SS or tinned copper. It is possible to cross thread them The stud is set into a lead post, depending on how the post is embedded into the lead, it might be possible to over torque the stud and break or loosen the connection between the stud and the lead post. If the post is stripped then one of these guys can be used to connect to the battery. Ancor Tinned Copper Battery Terminal Set If the clamp on terminal is over torqued it can distort the shape of the lead lug and that causes another set of problems.Doesn't make sense to me at all. Since the battery studs are a more malleable alloy (probably a lead alloy) and the nuts are steel (probably stainless) it would strip the stud first as you said. But then, you still have a battery connect that has to be jury rigged to use somehow since the stud is stripped.
More likely they are designing with full thread engagement and a short stud trying to limit the number of connections by not giving you enough length to keep stacking lug on lug.
Thanks for the clarification. I appreciate the information. There is a "fix" that can be done so I guess it makes the fix easier but its still a fix, so an alternate method and would have to be done because the original design was hosed up. As an engineer myself, I've never heard of an engineer intentionally designing a threaded connection with less than full thread engagement (the male threaded stud fully through the nut) after installation in the designed connection (including items to be held by the connection if included in the designed installation.)I believe the studs are SS or tinned copper. It is possible to cross thread them The stud is set into a lead post, depending on how the post is embedded into the lead, it might be possible to over torque the stud and break or loosen the connection between the stud and the lead post. If the post is stripped then one of these guys can be used to connect to the battery. Ancor Tinned Copper Battery Terminal Set If the clamp on terminal is over torqued it can distort the shape of the lead lug and that causes another set of problems.
The stud posts on batteries by Trojan, East Penn, US Battery, Superior, Crown, JCI etc. etc. etc. are made of stainless steel embedded into the lead. One of the best best options is what some premium AGM & GEL makers offer and that is a female brass alloy insert embedded into internal the lead grid into which you thread a hex bolt. Enersys/Odyssey, Lifeline, Northstar, Firefly etc. all offer this method..Doesn't make sense to me at all. Since the battery studs are a more malleable alloy (probably a lead alloy) and the nuts are steel (probably stainless) it would strip the stud first as you said.
If you look at the T105's in the image they are using the ELPT (embedded low profile terminal), which is the most common post the T105 ships with these days. It does not have a second "lead post" that you can connect to as it is nothing more than a small "nub" & not an actual "lead post".If the post is stripped then one of these guys can be used to connect to the battery. Ancor Tinned Copper Battery Terminal Set
Since the battery studs are a more malleable alloy (probably a lead alloy) and the nuts are steel (probably stainless) it would strip the stud first as you said.
Or like Maine said, to save a few pennies.
Darn ! ! !The stud posts on batteries by Trojan, East Penn, US Battery, Superior, Crown, JCI etc. etc. etc. are made of stainless steel embedded into the lead.