Compression post

[Jacomo Sailor]

Has anyone removed the compression post from a pre-85 C22? Just wondering how it is attached. I know there is at least one screw running through the tabernacle and deck and into the top of the post, but I cannot tell how it is attached to the top edge of the dinette seat. The reason I'm interested is I need to replace the wiring leading to the mast base. I know that many lead it along the cabin ceiling and then down the forward side of the bulkhead. I'm investigating the possibility of boring a hole through the center of the compression post to run the wire through. The only visible wiring would be where it exits the front side of the post just below the trim ring and runs a few inches to the penetration for the deck plug.

 

[Jacktar]

If that is the wire from inside the mast are you planning on never dropping the mast? Or maybe I dont get it my setup looks like this outside and inside.

 

[Jacomo Sailor]

Yes, you are misunderstanding, my mast would raise and lower just normal. I would still have it set up like your first pic (only with just a single 4 pin connector). Now turn you first pic upside down and imagine that the mast is the compression post and deck is the cabin ceiling. That is what I'm proposing to do to conceal it better, just trying to figure out how the post is attached so I can determine if my project idea is feasible.

 

[pclarksurf]

My 73 is attached by two screws to the port bulkhead and the single lag screw from the deck into the top of the post. 3 small screws to remove the trim ring and that's it on my boat.

 

[dzl]

I haven't removed mine, but my brother just did his '75. Just the top and bulkhead screws was it. Nothing coming up from the bottom fiberglass where it sits. You will need to jack up the cabin top though since it's made to fit tight and there should be pressure on it. It's a simple job the way I understand it. I like your idea too. My brother is replacing his with stainless steel tubing which would make concealing wires inside real easy...

 

[Jacomo Sailor]

Thanks guys! I knew about the bulkhead screws but was just sure there was probably an impossible to get to lag coming up from underneath. Glad to hear this one should be easy.

 

[Rusty Keel]

My 80 is just like pclarksurf , two screws in the port bulkhead and the single lag screw from the deck into the top of the post and 3 small screws to remove the trim ring. Nothing coming from underneath I don't know how boring a hole through the center would affect the structural integrity though. If you want to conceal electrical through it I consider replacing it with a stainless post. Several people in this board have done it and it looks great!

 

[CloudDiver]

Jacamo, Not a bad idea to hide the wiring. A 1/2 inch hole through the middle of the post shouldn't compromise the integrity at all. I know you mentioned the exit at the top just below the trim ring, but also keep in mind the exit at the base. You kind can and kinda cant really bring the wires directly out of the bottom of the post, you'll have to come out of the side like you do at the top. The glass it sits on is mostly a cover for the inner liner to rest on the actual keel trunk that is a separate piece, plus directly under the post is the 2x4 the stiffens the compression post.... a whole pandora's box of issues there. Some boats the 2x4 was installed too low or too short or not enough adhesive filler between layers leaving gaps, then the compression post would 'sink', leaks caused posted to rot... the list goes on.
Needless to say you will probably want to come out of the lower side of the post facing port, but you can actually come out of the post facing forward as long as you put an equal hole through the bulkhead that it screws to... BUT, (and I'm not at home to check) you only want to do that if the exit point is UNDER the teak support rail that holds up the panel over the porta potty area. Otherwise you'll have a pinched wire or have to route a groove in it. That's kinda the way my wire routing works, but I replaced the wood with a stainless post and the exit is definitely under that rail. I could have gone straight down into the port lazzarette but at the moment I'm not sure why I didn't, other than the fact that a hole was already there from the P.O. On the forward face of the liner I do go back into the stowage area where my wires route into the inside where the need to go out of sight.
Also, you'll need a jack to lightly lift up on the overhead, the post is squeezed in there tight. Rig down goes without saying... but I said it, lol. I had to use lumber to get the jack set properly and actually away from the post, I think a 4x4 cut to around twenty inches need to help the business end of the jack make contact with the overhead. Also lumber under the jack to get it even footing and protect the interior gelcoat.

 

[Jacomo Sailor]

Good info Cloud, thanks. I've been pondering this project for a while. I'm planning to launch for the season this weekend and still have a few projects I'm working on, so I don't know if I'll get this done now or put it off for a bit, but either way it will happen.

 

[greg_m]

Chiming in here... there's always one they say!

Removing the post in my boat was significantly harder as there was indeed a pin pressed into the bottom of the post that went through a hole in the top of the keel box/seat liner. I cut my post in half because i could not get it out even though the deck was lifted with a jack and wooden block as mentioned previously! Of course my boat was built last century, decade presumed to be 70's and in South Africa!

And there is absolutely nothing built inside this keel box cover/liner area to support the post base area... I will need to fill in the area as was advised to me by a British fellow. Apparently "lake" boats were built lighter than the "sea going" boats... I will be sailing on the sea... sometime I hope!

Of course now I need to replace the whole post and I feel like running the wires directly down from the deck through a new post to inside the storage compartment next to the keel box!

 

[Jacktar]

The reason I did the mast wiring and vhf through deck fittings as I did instead of through the compression post etc is because you can see penetration from below and the wires going into the mast base easily. Fixing any leaks is always easier when you can see the above and below deck sides clearly so you are not chasing a leak coming out somewhere from unknown multiple sources. And electrical connection issues are lots easier to correct too.

 

[greg_m]

Agreed fully about trying to find leaks and seeing things easily... I have been a marine engineer at sea for more than 15 years in various commercial cargo fleets = know all about ease of repair/access and maintenance issues and trying to figure out just where the water is coming from! Had my fair share of dealing with engine room floods

For me though due to the wood core laminate rot I am having to re-laminate the entire deck and coach roof so basically I can install watertight through-bulkhead type fittings from the start and do it my way the right way! Having wires exposed for someone to trip over or something to snag on is also one of my reasons for trying to reduce open runs and exposed wiring. Currently my boat is upside down with the entire deck internal lining removed and I am busy fitting new waterproof/boil proof plywood (as they call it here in SA from suppliers) in sections. Going is slow though because its winter cold and rainy wet these days.

My mast has an upright "tabernacle type" [if that's the correct terminology] mount so it does not actually sit flush with the deck... there is at least an inch or two between the bottom of the mast and the base of the mast mount. The mast is supported vertically by two large stainless bolts.

Anyways we will see what happens as the best made theoretical plans always need to be reviewed when it comes to practice!

The reason I did the mast wiring and vhf through deck fittings as I did instead of through the compression post etc is because you can see penetration from below and the wires going into the mast base easily. Fixing any leaks is always easier when you can see the above and below deck sides clearly so you are not chasing a leak coming out somewhere from unknown multiple sources. And electrical connection issues are lots easier to correct too.