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Cherubini 30 ft Rigging Questions

Discussion in 'The Cherubini Hunters' started by Mohawk Jack, Jan 22, 2018. Add this thread to a FAQ

  1. jssailem


    Joined Oct 22, 2014
    4,283 posts, 1,188 likes
    CAL 35 Cruiser
    US Salem, Moored Port Everett WA
    @Mohawk Jack you got the right idea. @dLj recommendation is smack on. You can spend weeks at the dock servicing a marina queen or you can go sailing.
    I keep a note book that I write down items that I think need to be serviced as I experience them sailing. Then once back home I sort through the list and prioritize them. “Safety first” down to “that might be fun”. Then dedicate the time to resolving the priority items. They all get done. And I get to sail.

    Even if it is on a friends boat while mine is in the yard.

  2. Mohawk Jack

    Mohawk Jack

    Joined Jan 19, 2018
    20 posts, 2 likes
    Hunter Cherubini 30
    US NY Cayuga Lake, NY
    OK Sailors, I have another Rigging question about my Cherubini 30. I'm having the fiberglass repaired at the base of my mast and I'm wondering what these blocks are near the base of my mast. I'm new to sailboat ownership and not sure if I need these and if so what they are used for. IMG_8228.JPG

  3. Will Gilmore

    Will Gilmore

    Joined Oct 19, 2017
    1,591 posts, 588 likes
    O'Day 19
    US Littleton, NH Littleton, NH

    - Will (Dragonfly)

  4. BlowMeAway


    Joined Nov 30, 2015
    832 posts, 336 likes
    Hunter 1978 H30 Cherubini
    US Maine, NY Cayuga Lake, Ithaca
    Boom vang, down haul, or cunningham.

  5. DianaOfBurlington


    Joined Jun 5, 2010
    934 posts, 32 likes
    Hunter 25
    US New Jersey (for now) Burlington NJ

    Those blocks serve one major purpose, and that is to wreak back and forth under load till the mounting holes work open, admit water, and contribute to the rot (or the rotting again) of the deck core. If I may appear knowledgeable and experienced at the risk of appearing also opinionated and arrogant, the halyard (and vang) turning blocks should NEVER be screwed into or through the deck structure in this area. The area is too vulnerable; and this is one way to totally destroy its structural integrity. Whenever I see these blocks bolted through the deck like this (especially when caulked with silicone!), it makes me want to go back into the fixing-deck-core-rot business at twice my old rate.

    The best way to mount mast-base halyard blocks is directly to the mast step metal itself. In this way the compression load of the mast nullifies the tensile load on the halyard blocks, essentially giving them a free ride. Nothing goes bad and nothing gets weakened. I cannot see any reason in the world why anyone wants to do it any other way.

    I have one piece, and ONLY one piece, of Garhauer hardware on my boat, and this is it -
    (I have the 2nd one.) I made a proper welded-aluminum mast step and drilled out the Garhauer plate for the mounting holes. A Delrin plate 3/32" thick insulates the aluminum from the stainless. The whole thing is bedded in 5200. The back two bolts go into the compression post and the front ones go into a G10 plate atop a brace in the toilet room. This does not leak and is far stronger than the original system, which was awful, especially after being compromised by-- you guessed it-- a PO attaching halyard blocks through the deck core (with silicone). That rotted out the entire center section of the cabintop. The water migrated down the front side and into the foredeck as well.

    Here is the page of the mast-base plates made by Dwyer -
    These are very nice plates but I needed block-mounting holes on all sides so I got the Garhauer one. The Dwyer people are very nice and make very nice gear and deserve more of the market than they get. All my spar hardware for Diana came from them. At the Annapolis show one year they gave me a very cool keychain just because I was saying nice stuff about them.

    My very fervent suggestion is to remove those blocks, fit a mast-step plate, and fill the holes and the neighboring core with epoxy. Remember that no patch job done from the top is sufficient for the mast-step area unless it involves something like epoxy knitting the surrounding core together with the block you just installed. I did not open up mine at all; I merely drilled numerous holes and filled them with epoxy (some thickened and some not) with the syringe. It let the existing (rotten) core be the epoxy's thickening agent. And it's rock-hard now. You could hold a dub-step dance party on it.

    Relying on the bond between the new core material and the old via the edges of the materials is not adequate. If you must effect a cut-out from above, the best is to make an all-new patch of deck that covers a very large area (24" square is probably not big enough), copies the old in thickness and layup schedule, and is adequately supported from underneath. Better would be to fill it like I did with mine or, even better, to fix it from underneath, similarly to how it was first constructed, using only marine/yacht-grade materials (NO pressure-treated, Starboard, silicone, or worse stuff). This is not a bathtub surround; it is the mast on a yacht. Treat it with appropriate concern.

    'Prudent pessimism is the mark of a responsible yachtie.' --JC

    Will Gilmore and BlowMeAway like this.
  6. BlowMeAway


    Joined Nov 30, 2015
    832 posts, 336 likes
    Hunter 1978 H30 Cherubini
    US Maine, NY Cayuga Lake, Ithaca
    Where the hell have you been mister? You need to get we new-old Hunter owners back on track. Nice to see you playing again JC!

  7. Mohawk Jack

    Mohawk Jack

    Joined Jan 19, 2018
    20 posts, 2 likes
    Hunter Cherubini 30
    US NY Cayuga Lake, NY
    This is what the boatyard found under all of that caulk and fiberglass. looks like PT lumber was installed at some point. All existing wood was removed and core was left open under heated air and fans to dry out. I will post finished pictures once I get them. I am not having the blocks installed as I don't see myself using them. IMG_8440.JPG

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