Can I lengthen my H23.5 reefing line?

Jun 28, 2016
334
Hunter 23.5 Paupack, PA
My topping lift runs through a small cheek block on the starboard side of the boom end, and then to a small regular cleat just forward of the block on the boom.
Nice and simple, but no cheek block or cleat on the H23.5 boom.
That is just like you originally proposed.
Ha - this is exactly what YOU proposed last year - lol! I simply "ran it up the flag pole" just to see what might shake out. I was looking for a way to avoid tying and untying anything, which made the jam cleat at the front of the boom attractive. However, I don't think @Rick Macdonald likes the idea of going forward to release the topping lift, and I can definitely see his point. The H23.5-H260 is different. There is no deck, only cabin top, and that first step up is a doozy...and - you have to leave the helm. I would prefer to release the TL at the helm. But I can also see where control at the mast might be convenient at times. Happily, I think I can have it both ways by adding a "clam cleat(?)" at the aft end of the boom (if such a thing can be done) and then rig it like you have it. Then (at the helm) I can pull the line out of the cleat to lower the boom, and then pull down to raise the boom. Likewise at the mast I can pull or release the line via the jam cleat. But I'm not married to this idea. Let me know what I'm missing.
 
Last edited:
Jun 2, 2004
649
Hunter 23.5 Calgary, Canada
I'd have to try a regular cleat near the aft end of the boom to see if I like it. I typically hold the boom (and myself) steady as it thrashes about a bit with one hand, and set or release the line in the V-cleat with the other hand. Sometimes while standing with the tiller between my legs but I also have a tiller tamer. I think a regular cleat would require two hands to tie off and be difficult in the case where I'm dropping the main in a strong wind. And in this same case, I don't want to go to the mast until the main is down. I imagine a cam cleat would be better than a regular horn cleat. Or maybe one of those horn cleats with a v-cleat at one end (never used one though).
 
Jun 28, 2016
334
Hunter 23.5 Paupack, PA
I'd have to try a regular cleat near the aft end of the boom to see if I like it.
Yeah, sorry, the original post said vee cleat, then I changed it to clam cleat, but I guess I mean jam cleat. Ugh. Suffice to say I haven't researched the cleat very well.
 

pateco

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Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
I'd have to try a regular cleat near the aft end of the boom to see if I like it. I think a regular cleat would require two hands to tie off and be difficult in the case where I'm dropping the main in a strong wind. And in this same case, I don't want to go to the mast until the main is down.
On another post, someone suggested pre-tieing loops in the topping lift line at lengths for topping lift tight, and topping lift slack. then instead of having to cleat the line each time you adjust it, you just place the appropriate loop over the horn cleat on the boom. I have not done this yet, but it is on my list of things to try. Here is how mine is attached. This is an older picture, and reef lines were not yet run.
topping lift.jpg
 
Jun 28, 2016
334
Hunter 23.5 Paupack, PA
No blocks or cleats on the little ship's boom... But I like your setup, the boom looks very secure and the line appears within easy reach. Loops are easy enough, but you know the rules: there has to be at least one block on every line to confuse power boaters! But seriously, I'm thinking to add a block to the TL about 18" above the boom, then run a second line through the boom, under an aft sheeve, up to the block, and down into a medium Harken cam cleat, the one with the wire fairlead, and then tie a loop!
 
Nov 18, 2016
150
Hunter 260 Lucky Peak, ID
Have this issue all the time and its a PIA when sailing solo to reef.

You have all given ne some excellent ideas - really like the topping lift boom cleat.