Can I lengthen my H23.5 reefing line?

[GGordonWoody]

At present, the length of my main reefing line is just enough to reef the sail, but I would like to leave the line rigged after I shake out the reef. Would there be any problem with purchasing a longer line, so that I could take care of both ends from the mast? The H23.5 manual shows the line sort of like this, but I'm not sure if the illustrator took some liberties. Thanks.
[Edit] Forgot to mention, the attachment point under the boom slides in a track, so it seems like it was supposed to be setup this way. Just not sure if I'm missing something.

 

[Rick Macdonald]

I can't quite follow what you mean, but I can say the sliding reef padeye in the boom track didn't work for me. To pull the reef clew both down to the boom and to pull the new foot tight (like an outhaul), it has to be fixed at a position somewhat aft of where the clew meets the boom when tightened (not right below the clew). Otherwise, I could never get the reef point right down to the boom. There would always be a gap.

The jam cleat in the boom at the gooseneck is horrible too. It came open on me again a few days ago. I'm not sure how to fix this. Maybe a horn cleat on the boom.

 

[GGordonWoody]

Hey thanks, yeah, a picture might help. I would like to have the reef line rigged, but loose, and ready to be tension-ed from the forward end of the boom (top diag). Right now, the line is so short I cannot do this, so I have to haul down and tack the sail first, which leaves the clew end a big flapping mess until I get back there to rig the (very short) reefing line (untie, pass through cringle, then retie). There is barely enough line for even that.

As for those weak jam cleats, the PO put knots in the the reefing and the out-haul lines.

 

[Rick Macdonald]

My reefing line is like your diagram shows: goes from a stopper knot at the sliding pad eye under the boom, up to the clew when the main is fully raised, then to the sheave at the aft end of the boom, through the boom to the gooseneck, then out the jam cleat. With the main fully up I have about 4 or 5 feet dangling below the jam cleat. So, mine is how you describe what you want. Strange that yours is so short. There's no question you should put a longer line in.

In your diagram, my padeye is fixed aft from the reefed clew, maybe above the "l" or "d" in the word "Sliding" in your diagram. I have no idea why that thing comes freely sliding. I never saw the point in that. It would work its way forward to be under the clew and create a gap above the boom. If you start with it under the clew, you, well I, could never get the clew down to touch the boom. I haven't riveted or screwed it into place. Not knowing where I wanted it yet, I just tied a short line from the padeye to the end of the boom as a test. That was several years ago and it's still like that. LOL

 

[GGordonWoody]

the sliding reef padeye in the boom track didn't work for me

Makes you wonder why it slides.

The manual diagrams the final reefed configuration, but I don't recall seeing anything about leaving it rigged and loose. Maybe it is so obvious, or common knowledge, that they didn't bother to illustrate it?

Topping lift is another mystery. I'm adding a snatch block to it and then running a line through the boom to it so I can lift the the boom from the mast. I think.

 

[GGordonWoody]

There's no question you should put a longer line in.

Ahh! Thanks Rick - it took me a year to figure this out - ha! Very cool. Yeah, we've only been out a couple times, but last Sunday we had to shake out a practice reef and it took forever. The PO may have had a different approach to things, or just never used it. Anyway - thanks man.

 

[Rick Macdonald]

Mine works fine in the fashion that you're going to do, except of course that gooseneck jam cleat.

Ummm, I don't like your proposed topping lift! Mine is handled from the boom end. I like it that way. I wouldn't want to go to the mast. A bit hard to explain without a diagram but here goes...

The topping lift comes down and terminates a couple of feet above the boom, where it attaches to a block with an integrated V-cleat. (It sometimes slips; a cam cleat might be better). From this block/cleat, a line is fixed at its bottom end and goes down to the sheave at the end of the boom, and then back up and over the block at the end of the topping lift and is grabbed by the V-cleat. There is enough slack that I loosen it when sailing, and harden before dropping the main. It means centering the boom or at least getting it to the edge of the cockpit if I forget to loosen it before sailing, but that's easy to do. Just head up a bit or if the wind is light, just grab the mainsheet and bring the boom in by hand. I've done this for 15 years and have had no inspiration to change it. I have no idea if this is the factory setup.

If I can find a picture of the block/cleat I use I'll post it later.

 

[Rick Macdonald]

Found it. This is it exactly:

http://discount-marine.co.nz/shop/i...ucts_id=5218&zenid=tih304o79oqt5d3olkurq1o642

 

[caverun]

Great suggestion on rigging the topping lift from the aft end of the boom. I'm going to try this on my H240. The store here has a similar cleat that will work (CL253)
https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?14543

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

As a dealer I was always trying to set up my boats so it would take less time and make it easy.

First with the topping lift, you could run the line down thru a curved base turning block to a cleat so you could lower or raise the boom. However, I started using a V Jam cleat style two turning block affixed to the end of the boom. The line simply loops around the larger block and then around the smaller turning block and locks in on the backside of the V Jam. You will need to see the backside of the block by refereeing to Ronstan Series 29 blocks to understand. I would put a stopper knot in the line should it ever come out so the boom will not crash all the way down if it came loose. It worked so well even for trailering purposes.

The key to reefing on the 23 was to have everything forward so you could lower the sail and haul in the reef line. Over time the jam portion on the lever action of the boom would wear out or the line itself in a sense wear out. You could as Dennis mentioned put a stopper knot in the end and then run the reef line thru the sail and back to a turning block with curved base and then forward to the boom to a cleat avoiding the lever action which at times gave way. You could also make it a single line complete line avoiding the hooks as you have very little time setting up the reefing in strong airs.

 

[Joe]

The sliding cheek block at the clew end of the boom is there to accommodate a second or third reef. You place the car so the reef line pulls back and down on the reef clew cringle. The line then runs forward to a horn/jam cleat that has hole in its base to capture the line when you shake out the reef. Tying a stopper knot in the line will keep it from slipping through that hole. So.. when you set the clew end reef line you use the jam end of the horn to hold the line while you pull the middle of it to maximize tension at the clew.. Then you can reset the line through the jam and secure it with a knot on the horn. You should be able to hook the luff ring over the ramshead and secure the clew reef line while standing at the gooseneck.

If you need to insert a second(or third) reef... lash the clew of the first reef to the boom... then untie clew line and, hopefully, you will have threaded a messenger through the second reef that will get the line re routed... re tie the clew line to the eye strap.... move the sliding car forward into position for the second reef.... proceed to the mast for the reefing process. Oh... and of course a Flemish eye in the reef line will make sense to this method.

For sailors that reef a lot... separate lines for each reef are often left rigged.... otherwise a thin messenger line through the reef clew and tied to the boom will keep the clutter and chafe to a minimum.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Joe;
Did you ever own a hunter 23.5?

 

[GGordonWoody]

Found it. This is it exactly:

http://discount-marine.co.nz/shop/i...ucts_id=5218&zenid=tih304o79oqt5d3olkurq1o642

Thanks man, I think I see now. I like. I guess I've been hauling up the main while standing at the mast all this time, so I wanted control of the topping lift there. But I can see that isn't normal. I should get used to doing things the normal way and raise the main from the cockpit, and then just release the topping lift. Ha! Last year we spent refining our shore and dock mechanics, so this year we're trying to get our launch chops down. Thanks a bunch, your description helped me a lot. I'm scrapping the snatch block idea and ordering that vee or jam cleat!

 

[GGordonWoody]

The store here has a similar cleat that will work (CL253)

Thanks Cave-dude. It looks like the CL236 might be the ticket?

 

[pateco]

My topping lift runs through a small cheek block on the starboard side of the boom end, and then to a small regular cleat just forward of the block on the boom.

 

[Rick Macdonald]

Here are some photos to help inspire ideas.

 

[GGordonWoody]

Here are some photos to help inspire ideas.

Thanks. The ship came with some extra blocks that I couldn't infer the purpose of. Maybe there's something in there I can use. Beautiful water you got up there. I noticed you have some, er, stays? running from the mast to the spreaders. What are those for?

 

[Rick Macdonald]

I noticed you have some, er, stays? running from the mast to the spreaders. What are those for?

Those are part of "Tom's Lazy Jacks". In the discussion above about the boom dropping if one forgets to harden the topping lift: mine doesn't. The lazy jacks hold it well enough above the cabin top. They are stowed out of the way in the photo by hooking to the whisker pole padeye at the front of the mast. When the sailcover is removed, the bottom ends of those lines get moved to loops on lines tucked under the boom which get lifted up to form the cradle.

 

[Joe]

Joe;
Did you ever own a hunter 23.5?

Nope.... never said I did. Just giving some insight on how a sliding cheek block can be used for reefing .... on most any boat.

 

[isaksp00]

I have the topping lift rigged with a block about 3 ft above the boom end, attached to the wire topping lift up to the mast crane. The line that goes through the boom and jam cleat up front loops from the sheave at the end of the boom up to the (swivel) block then down to be tied to the end of the boom, right behind the 3 sheaves. That is just like you originally proposed. I do have to adjust it from near the mast, so I suppose a jam cleat/block is an improvement - though probably a bit more expensive. Using the jam cleat at the fore boom end has not been a bother to me.
And my reefing line is longer than yours - I leave it looped through the 1st reef cringle, so that when the main is raised it still hangs a bit loose.
Sailing on the lake on Sunday was no good - not enough wind to do much at all, but weather was nice.