Cabin top main hatch and spray shield

[barnstormer]

Does anyone have pictures of the spray shield and main hatch removed from an eighties Catalina 30? I have been getting water leakage from the screws that hold the teak on the cabin top and would like to see what I'm getting into when I take off main hatch and spray shield next spring.
Thanks

 

[RitSim]

We had an '89 Catalina 30 and I did remove the spray hood and teak trim. I gave the pics to the next owner but I can comment on the removal. The teak trim on the end of the companionway slide was removed by loosening the screws visible on the inside of the slide. The side teak trims were removed by drilling a small hole in each teak plug, I should have cut around each teak plug to prevent splitting but it was minor. Drive a wood or sheet metal screw into the hole to get the plug out. I think there were 4 or 5 screws each side. The spray hood was caulked in the front and also had 4+/- screws. The hood lifts up. I also replaced the rubber bumper for the companionway slide. I had previously lined the slides with 3/4 (or maybe 1") x 1/32" thick UHMW. You can also line the slide as well and it is available thinner and thicker, but I didn't want the slide too easy. Bought this from McMaster Carr. Glued it down with 3M #77 spray adhesive. Careful with this stuff- it gets everywhere. Spray the pieces on paper off the boat, let dry a few minutes and apply a second coat. Assembly pieces while the second coat is still wet- don't over spray. Also spray the track with side protection. When reassembling, you may have to file/adjust the slots at the rear of the hood because of the new slide height. There are two holes at the front of the hood - don't caulk these drain holes. Reattached the hood, and home finished teak. Plugged the holes, cut, sanded and refinished the hole area.

Rich

 

[barnstormer]

Did you do this job because of water intrusion? I'm thinking the screws that hold down the teak boards on the cabin top are loose and leaking water since they are only wood screws and don't go all the way through the inner liner.

 

[jssailem]

@barnstormer the type of screw attachment, you are identifying, was often used with a dab (sometimes not) of caulk in the boat building trade. It was then screwed through the fiberglass skin into the wood sandwich between the fiberglass deck and cabin roof surface. This gives a path, as the caulk fails, for water intrusion and wood rot. I know because I had that problem.

1. SO when you remove the screws and can see the holes you can enlarge the hole a bit,
   
2. try to dry out any water in the wood filled space between the fiberglass skins,
   
3. using a small bent nail in a drill tear back and then suck out the wood sandwiched between the fiberglass,
   
4. then fill these voids with thickened epoxy,
   
5. let harden,
   
6. reattach the teak using butyl on the screw ends
   
7. and a pilot hole in the epoxy plug.

This will seal your attachments to the cabin top and your cabin will take on a new air of dryness.

 

[barnstormer]

Thanks for your comments, this is what I suspected was happening but wasn't sure of the attachment. I like your fix and will do the same to mine this spring.