Registered users don't see ads

C275 Problems

Discussion in 'Catalina 275' started by Codybear, May 2, 2017. Add this thread to a FAQ

  1. Codybear

    Codybear

    Joined Jun 6, 2016
    80 posts, 9 likes
    Catalina 275
    US Wilmette, IL
    Just confirmed my Catalina mold problem. Jumped on board my previous 1989 Capri22, with owner's permission, and tested the paint and mold theory. Sure enough, a problem I fought for over a decade is the paint. And because it is extremely well known that oil based paint yellows in a non-lite environment, I'm willing to state that Catalina paints their boats with an oil based paint. This surprises me because everyone in the industry should know that oil is a food source for mold. I learned this after the never ending perpetual cycle of teak oil, teak cleaner and teak brightener. What a racket. Took me about five years to figure out to let it go natural and the occasional cleaning with lemon Fantastic.

    It's really disappointing that one of the big boat builders doesn't understand the problem of mold. Here are before and after pictures. The light gray mold was tenacious and was permanent all through the time I owned the boat. Notice the yellowing of the paint on the left side after the removal. That's oil.

    P1030412.JPG

    P1030417.JPG

    In this case I used an old bottle of Citri-Strip, which I can not recall ever using before, and left it on the boat for the owner. Catalina is doing a disservice to their owners when they try to beautify their underside. Absolutely confirms I need to undo Catalina's work. I'd rather have seen the occasional glass than the rampant mold.
     


  2. PMK

    PMK

    Joined Dec 3, 2016
    11 posts, 0 likes
    Catalina 275S
    Un Annapolis, MD
    My mast steaming light was destroyed this weekend by a flogging halyard and sail. Does any owner know the manufacturer and model number of the light? Knowing will save me a second trip up the mast. I am guessing that it is either an Aqua Signal 25 or a Hella Marine light. Catalina does not have a separate part number for it, since it is supplied with the Selden mast. Thanks.
     


  3. Codybear

    Codybear

    Joined Jun 6, 2016
    80 posts, 9 likes
    Catalina 275
    US Wilmette, IL
    Fortunately, mine is down on a shelf in the basement. It's an Aqua Signal T25 (10W).
     


  4. PMK

    PMK

    Joined Dec 3, 2016
    11 posts, 0 likes
    Catalina 275S
    Un Annapolis, MD
    Thanks Codybear. Why is yours not on the mast?
     


  5. Codybear

    Codybear

    Joined Jun 6, 2016
    80 posts, 9 likes
    Catalina 275
    US Wilmette, IL
    And while we are talking about lights, I'm not impressed by the Hella Marine 3562 series that Catalina puts on the bow and stern. The no-tools-to-change-your-light-bulb lenses fall off way too easily. I lost the stern last year when a girl used it as a hand hold and now the bow disappeared within the last two weeks and it is not sitting under the boat in the berth. Swam around long enough yesterday in 50 degree, poor visibility water to know that. The no tools feature is pointless if I have to buy a whole new light, with included bulb, every few years. I'll never have a burnt out bulb.

    Going to replace with Aqua Signal 25 (same mounting holes) or if mounting permits the Marinebeam LED N1 series.
     


  6. Codybear

    Codybear

    Joined Jun 6, 2016
    80 posts, 9 likes
    Catalina 275
    US Wilmette, IL
    See "Pimp my C275" post #8. If you want to upgrade, now you have a really good reason.
     


    PMK likes this.
  7. Codybear

    Codybear

    Joined Jun 6, 2016
    80 posts, 9 likes
    Catalina 275
    US Wilmette, IL
    Keep an eye on the pivot screws on the mast luff track. I believe when the sail rotates from the port side to the starboard side, the screws loosen:

    P1030456.JPG

    I've tightened them to have them reloosen. This year I've reinstalled using blue locktite. Forgot to get above as I leave that part on the mast. I'll see how this works out, but hopefully the locktite holds.
     


  8. Codybear

    Codybear

    Joined Jun 6, 2016
    80 posts, 9 likes
    Catalina 275
    US Wilmette, IL
    As I commented in post #10, I'm not fond of Catalina's (more likely Selden's) use of the core to secure to the shackle for the three halyards (jibs & main). You should keep an eye and on them and when motivated, pull the core out, cut the excess and tie the same type of knot as on the spin halyard. Here is my main halyard that is showing wear:

    P1030491.JPG

    From pictures, there should be enough room before the knot will hit the sheave. Worked ok on the jib. The tricky part is the core does not melt so finished appearance is a little tough. I may try crazy glue on the core. Additionally, the cover does melt a bit but tends to recede without the core receding.
     


  9. Codybear

    Codybear

    Joined Jun 6, 2016
    80 posts, 9 likes
    Catalina 275
    US Wilmette, IL
    One season later, with no additional cleaning, the mold is holding off where I had removed the Catalina applied paint. This is the cockpit locker hatch that was growing mold within a month or two of new ownership:

    P1030564.JPG

    And this is under the saloon seat behind the holding tank where the mold was previously rampant:

    P1030559.JPG

    Because of limited access and as a precaution, I painted the hull with white paint and the water tank with a clear paint. I'm happy that my experimental paint job is doing a far superior job than Catalina's paint job keeping mold at bay. I still have a bunch of crawling around to remove their mold growing paint. A good winter project.

    When I was in tackling the cockpit locker, I had their 3+ year old paint adhere to the back of my shirt, which I found strange. Here is a before picture of the cockpit locker (paint already removed on right side):

    P1030521.JPG

    and after:

    P1030523.JPG

    You can see where I hadn't gone all the way up on the left side. You can also see the glass/resin Catalina was trying to beautify. Anyway, I thought I would give a progress report to post #2.
     


  10. cat guy

    cat guy

    Joined Mar 20, 2012
    14 posts, 2 likes
    Hunter 28.5
    US leach lake Walker mn.
    I have hull #2 and had the same jib length issues. the Doyle loft in florida (Island nautical) re cut it for me. Since then I had Quantam sails build me a 105 jib. The leach is just off the spreaders when sheeted in hard. The boat points better with that sail, but is still doggy in anything off the wind, without a spin up
     


  11. Codybear

    Codybear

    Joined Jun 6, 2016
    80 posts, 9 likes
    Catalina 275
    US Wilmette, IL
    I recently learned a very important lesson. Never use the phrase, "knock on wood" without physically knocking on wood. About two weeks ago, I said "Knock on wood, I haven't had any problems with my saildrive" and I did not knock on wood even though it was right under my keyboard. Two days later, I lost forward and reverse. First I thought I dropped the prop. Prop there, cables all working, nothing obvious. Was not looking forward to sailing the boat back to its trailer 32 nm. away and then have the cost of the transmission being torn apart.

    Even google searches were not helping until I happen to stumble on a blog. Looked easy enough and certainly worth investigating before the expense and trouble of hauling my boat. Opened up the tranny and I found the same pin had simply fallen out. Certainly worse for wear after jamming against the gear. So I lost forward and reverse because a $2 pin fell out. Not only that, it is a tapered pin that is inserted from the bottom. Common sense always dictate that you have gravity work in your favor not against you. Clearly there is an engineer in Japan that needs to take Physics 101 and learn about gravity.

    Anyway, if you are ever in this situation, something worth looking into if there is no other visible explanation for a Yanmar SD20 failure. Some comments I would like to add to the above blog:
    1) You do not need to disconnect the cable from the cable bracket.
    2) You do not need to remove the cap to get to the pin. You may need to remove the cap to help get the shifter aligned to the dog clutch on assembly. Removal is also helpful to inspect the gears for damage as I did because of the loose pin. I used a M10x1.5x100 bolt and my largest 1/2" drive standard depth socket as a slider to loosen the cap.
    3) On the advice of a Yanmar distributor, I cleaned the hole and pin with break cleaner and used red Loctite to secure. Pounded the pin in well and have my fingers crossed it doesn't fall out. And yes, I crossed my fingers there. To remove the pin, it should be heated to 450+ to melt the Loctite. So anyone buying my boat (#14) in the future, this is public notice that the pin is secured with Loctite 271.
    4) Not all of my part numbers matched the blog, so here are my parts:
    22301-040250 TAPER PIN 4X25
    24321-000550 O-RING 1A G-55.0 (shifter)
    24321-000750 O-RING 1A G-75.0 (cap)
    24311-000110 O-RING 1A P-11.0 (cap)
    With less than 90 hours, I probably didn't need to replace the o-rings, but we are talking about $10 in parts all in.
    5) The bearing/gear did not want to go back into the cap easily, so I threw the bearing/gear into the freezer and the cap into a 200F warming drawer. Way more than I needed as even after 10 minutes together, it was still loose. If you take the cap off while the engine is cold, the two parts may stay together.

    And lastly, I've changed the anodes by the prop but I did not realize there is an anode in the upper half of the SD20 (part #27210-200550). I'll be replacing that with a fresh water anode this fall and the lower seals as well after the haulout. Fortunately, there is no shore power around my slip and no live-aboards, so I'm less likely to have problems in the first place.
     



Noflex Sewage Treatment
Treat sludge and odor problems in holding tanks.
Winch covers
Any brand, every size, any color!
Merriman pedestal control head
Finally, an aluminum replacement for this YS Merriman part.
Leaky Lewmar ports?
Start by replacing lens gaskets in stock now