C22 New Style "Stormwatch" Purchase and Refit

May 23, 2016
1,024
Catalina 22 #12502 BSC
I detest stickers. You can't buy a freakin' ping pong ball these days without having to peel nineteen warning labels off it, usually requiring the use of acetone and/or other solvents. Drives me nutz.

The brass plaque idea would be cool ... for you people who actually use keel locks. :biggrin:
Agree....one of my easier "mods" is to REMOVE that sticker! Looks like it was made in Jr. HS print shop...
 

dzl

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Jun 23, 2016
159
Catalina 22 Trailer
I use this website www.stickerapp.com to make stickers. They are very good quality and stand up to the elements. I've got some that have been on my vehicles for over a year with zero signs of wear, so they are waterproof and durable. I stole your art and did a quick check, it looks like you can get 16 of them for $25. I think they add shipping... Do it and I'll buy one.

image-2862925717.jpg
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,094
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
Not sure why you guys don't use the lock.
All it has to do is save smashing the keel trunk once when the keel swings back down after hitting something, and it's made it worth the effort. 20 secs to do.

As for the label, I occasionally forget stuff so I see it like a preflight checklist, and an aide for rookies who might be sailing with me.
I'm also a bit of a completist. I made up a label for the truck I'm restoring, which reminds you how to use the convertible top. Extremely hard to forget that, and I laugh when I see the label, but the truck had it from the factory, and I'm restoring it.

As for a brass plaque, of any type, on any reasonably sized sail boat ... I see that as too over the top.
Kinda like a big spoiler on a gutless car. Look at me ! I'm as cool as the guy with a R8 !

In this example, it would really stand out like a sore thumb, when I would prefer it to be visible, but not be in your face.
 
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Mar 20, 2015
3,094
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
I use this website www.stickerapp.com to make stickers. They are very good quality and stand up to the elements. I've got some that have been on my vehicles for over a year with zero signs of wear, so they are waterproof and durable. I stole your art and did a quick check, it looks like you can get 16 of them for $25. I think they add shipping... Do it and I'll buy one.

View attachment 127518
Thanks for the heads up. I'll keep that in mind.
I'll see what the guy I know would want for some. He may just do them for slightly over his cost.
 
Jul 13, 2015
893
Catalina 22 #2552 2252 Kennewick, WA
Not sure why you guys don't use the lock.
All it has to do is save smashing the keel trunk once when the keel swings back down after hitting something, and it's made it worth the effort. 20 secs to do.
Before we dive too far into the well and often discussed pros and cons of the lockdown bolt-- @Gene Neill has what I personally think is the no brainer image of the century: http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/keel-locking-bolt.175129/#post-1247720

In the end it will always come down to personal preference -- and I like to remind myself: "you can't change physics"
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,094
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
I think that Stingy's write up in the NSA Mainbrace more or less covers the physics of it.

It simply provides friction to help minimize fore and aft swinging of the keel. That can only be a good thing, even if it's not an optimum design.

Don't use it=doesn't help with fore/aft movement of the keel
Use it=helps with fore/aft movement of the keel within it's design specs.

Only drawback I see is damage to the keel's finish. My boat is 30 years old and it's doing fine. If I ever blast, seal, and fair my keel, I sure as heck won't be concerned about it being scraped by the bolt if I hit something underway, or forget to back it off before raising the keel.
I can guarantee we'll hit uncharted rocks eventually.
I'll touch it up with paint occasionally, and it will likely last another 30 years.
I could care less at that point, because I'll likely be dead, and have owned other boats in that time.
 
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Mar 20, 2015
3,094
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
New Design Keel Winch Warning Label Continued

I've always felt the original sticker looked like it was done in 30 seconds by some guy in the shipping department.
I took some time this morning to try a few other designs.
The idea is to print them on clear material so that there is no white background like the original.


Catalina 22 Keel Winch Label Cat.png


Catalina Yachts logo with no "lock" warning

Catalina 22 Winch Loc Cat 22.png


Modified Catalina Logo with "22" added and "lock" warning


For course, you could simply remove the logo and have the arrow and font.

@dzl For the design with the lock warning and combined Catalina & 22 logo design, price from that site you linked is 19 (4" x 2.5") stickers with cut outline on transparent material for $24 USD

I've got my buddy's staff looking into the cost of doing them locally.

One possible idea, is to not just make winch labels, but to make a sheet that contains a winch label, 2 stern labels for the hull, and 2 labels that could replace the plastic logos on the side of the cockpit. If they all fit on a single A4 sheet, I assume it would be $24 per sheet/set.
 
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Mar 20, 2015
3,094
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
Power Boat Cover Modification to Fit

Since the fall is here it's time to think about getting my cover completed.
Previously I posted about a 22 foot power boat cover I bought for a great price.
I'm now in the process of modifying it so it will fit on a C22 with lifeline/pullpit stanchions.
I don't know how to sew. Lord knows why I get into this stuff.

So far I'm about halfway through cutting slots in the cover where the stanchions are.
The cover had elastic around the edge. Obviously cutting slots in the side of the cover negates this.
I'm going to replace it with webbing to reinforce the edge and have loops on each side where the cover meets the stanchions. One loop will be passed through the other and tied down to the trailer with rope. This will pull the sections together at each slot in addition to pulling the cover down.

I'm not sure how i'll be reinforcing the material around the edge of each cut slot.

My current thought :
Put a triangle patch on both sides at the top of the cut, hem the edges, and sew velcro on each edge ?

Any suggestions ?
Here's quick drawings of what i'm dealing with.
First photo is the cover with the cuts in it to go around the stanchions.
The second photo, is what I'm thinking to do for sewing and reinforcement.
BoatCover2.png
 
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Mar 20, 2015
3,094
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
Cover now has slots cut to allow for stanchions.
Since this was a power boat cover, it needs to be trimmed off as it goes to the bow. I'll use the excess as reinforcing material for slots.
The cover is just the right length. What looks like excess will be enough to cover the longer anchor roller I want to build.

tmp_19691-IMAG0664~01-1897828319.jpg
tmp_19691-IMAG0665~01-565679819.jpg
 
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Likes: ShotgunSlim
Mar 20, 2015
3,094
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
Ok. Time to kill those crickets.

As you can tell, I haven't been working on the boat for a while.
I've had too many bigger priorities until this last week.

In our previous episode of "Land Locked", I was modifying a power boat cover to fit the C22.
My suggestion to others, is to not bother, unless you want to use it as a learning process.

I had to borrow a commercial sewing machine, which unfortunately does not have reverse.
Then I had to learn, which pointers from my wife, on how to use the darn thing.

The amount of time I have spent modifying the cover, could easily have paid for a $1500 fancy custom cover, had I calculated my time in terms of a minimum wage job.

The thing is, I can afford to buy lots of things, but I have some "problem" which makes me too frugal to do so. I usually gravitate to the frugal alternative.

That said, in my opinion it's good to have the ability to sew.
Sail repair, cockpit covers, BBQ covers, etc.

In fact, I have already used my new sewing ability to re-purpose an old patio umbrella.
The umbrella's wooden frame broke last fall, but the cover, while heavily faded, was still strong.
I've wanted to make an engine cover for my pressure washer.
A bit of measuring, some cutting, and some sewing, resulted in this, all for the cost of the thread.
The two colours are the same material, one is the faded outer part. The green is the original colour that was hidden from the sun for the last 20 years.


So maybe the time spent modifying the boat cover isn't a waste after all.
 
Jul 13, 2015
893
Catalina 22 #2552 2252 Kennewick, WA
take a look at sail rite web site if you haven't already-- lot's of interesting and good examples and vids of how to get on the sewing streak. I'm trying to stay away :) seems like I should try my hand at it, but I keep reminding myself that I need to focus on floating :)
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,094
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
take a look at sail rite web site if you haven't already
That's how I confirmed the way to measure and mark the material for that engine cover. :)
I used the Winch cover video for info. I plan on making winch covers, and I saw the pressure washer cover as a good test, since it's just a bigger version.

I have a bunch of books that cover it, including Don Casey's one.

Like most things, you have to actually do it to learn the little details that make the difference. Kinda like learning to sail from a book without a boat.
I have the puncture marks to prove it. lol
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,094
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
I'm currently waiting on some parts for both my tow vehicle and the boat, so today I was back looking at the power system on the boat.

I have the basic wiring functional, and have replaced the old switches and fuses in original panel, with new parts, take from a panel that I bought at a local marine dealer. I simply removed the parts from the new faceplate and transferred them to the original face plate. A bit of rewiring, addition of a 12 volt cigarette lighter power port, and it was ready to use.

At least temporarily...
My long term plan is to hook up my Solar panel and future sailpro with alternator, into the system.
Along with this I want a meter to monitor power consumption and battery condition.

Awhile back I purchased a YB27VA Volt/Amp meter
The unit itself is limited to 10 amps, but it sometimes includes a 50A resistive shunt, depending on who you buy it from.
It's small enough to fit in the factory panel and may just work for what I need.
I have yet to determine my actual power consumption on the boat so I'm not sure yet.
Volt_ammeter_side.jpg
 

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Mar 20, 2015
3,094
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
Change of plans..... in regards to using the YB27VA meter in the panel.

My solar panel came with a 7AMP shunting type Solar Charge Controller.
Since a shunting unit is no great, I wanted to replace it.
I found a 20 amp PWM Charge controller online (CMTD-2420), that has, adjustable parameters including battery type, and a visual battery + charging status display.

I'll be able to use the display to show battery condition, even if the solar panel is not in use. This eliminates the need for a meter in the panel. :)

I'm off to get some cable for the outboard's charging output, and then will be looking into mounting location etc. for the solar setup.
 
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Sep 30, 2013
3,538
1988 Catalina 22 North Florida
I'm guessing you plan to use larger cable than what came with the motor? I keep looking suspiciously at mine, thinking how thin it looks.
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,094
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
I also thought the cable that came with the motor looked a bit thinner than needed, but according to my chart...for the 6A@12 volts max output of the motor, 18AWG is ok for up to 20 feet long. 16 AWG for 25 feet.

The final choice may come down to how nice the cable is.
 
Sep 30, 2013
3,538
1988 Catalina 22 North Florida
I'm not sure what size wire came with the motor, do you know? If it's 18, I think I'll replace it with 16, and either put the connectors below deck or eliminate them altogether. And cut off any excess length that doesn't absolutely have to be there.

It's one of those nitpicky things that will bug me until I'm sure I have it optimized.