While attempting to drop C22 keel, two of the keel hanger bolts sheared off. Is the keel hanger casting threaded? Or, do the bolts just go through the hanger casting and screw into the bedded part of the assembly? I currently have a bottle jack supporting the keel at the hanger end, and, the other end is resting on the removal sled, as called for in the Catalina Direct video. I am hoping the hanger casting is not threaded, so, that I can remove keel and work on removing broken bolts.
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While attempting to drop C22 keel, two of the keel hanger bolts sheared off. Is the keel hanger casting threaded? Or, do the bolts just go through the hanger casting and screw into the bedded part of the assembly? I currently have a bottle jack supporting the keel at the hanger end, and, the other end is resting on the removal sled, as called for in the Catalina Direct video. I am hoping the hanger casting is not threaded, so, that I can remove keel and work on removing broken bolts.
Not threaded
Continue to take off the keel and work on fixing the problem (broken bolts) when you have more room to work.
Continue to take off the keel and work on fixing the problem (broken bolts) when you have more room to work.
Not threaded
Continue to take off the keel and work on fixing the problem (broken bolts) when you have more room to work.
Continue to take off the keel and work on fixing the problem (broken bolts) when you have more room to work.
Been there, done that . . .
I only sheared 1 of the bolts off, so you got me beat. A second bolt was stripped, so that counts for something. Anyway, the hangers will come right off (they are not threaded). Make sure you take the load off the remaining bolts as you loosen them. Your BIG problem will be removing the remains of the 2 bolts. I would try to soak them up with liquid wrench and all that kind of stuff. Give it a couple of days to soak in. The "weldments" (threaded abutments) are only 3/4" in diameter, so there is not too much material there to play around with. If you have to drill into the exisiting bolts, make sure you drill with a small enough bit so as not to run the danger of drilling into the threads. If you damage the threads, then a helix coil kit will do the job. The bolts are 1.5" 5/16" Dia, 16 threads/inch. Have fun. Regards, Ted
I only sheared 1 of the bolts off, so you got me beat. A second bolt was stripped, so that counts for something. Anyway, the hangers will come right off (they are not threaded). Make sure you take the load off the remaining bolts as you loosen them. Your BIG problem will be removing the remains of the 2 bolts. I would try to soak them up with liquid wrench and all that kind of stuff. Give it a couple of days to soak in. The "weldments" (threaded abutments) are only 3/4" in diameter, so there is not too much material there to play around with. If you have to drill into the exisiting bolts, make sure you drill with a small enough bit so as not to run the danger of drilling into the threads. If you damage the threads, then a helix coil kit will do the job. The bolts are 1.5" 5/16" Dia, 16 threads/inch. Have fun. Regards, Ted
Been there, done that . . .
I only sheared 1 of the bolts off, so you got me beat. A second bolt was stripped, so that counts for something. Anyway, the hangers will come right off (they are not threaded). Make sure you take the load off the remaining bolts as you loosen them. Your BIG problem will be removing the remains of the 2 bolts. I would try to soak them up with liquid wrench and all that kind of stuff. Give it a couple of days to soak in. The "weldments" (threaded abutments) are only 3/4" in diameter, so there is not too much material there to play around with. If you have to drill into the exisiting bolts, make sure you drill with a small enough bit so as not to run the danger of drilling into the threads. If you damage the threads, then a helix coil kit will do the job. The bolts are 1.5" 5/16" Dia, 16 threads/inch. Have fun. Regards, Ted
I only sheared 1 of the bolts off, so you got me beat. A second bolt was stripped, so that counts for something. Anyway, the hangers will come right off (they are not threaded). Make sure you take the load off the remaining bolts as you loosen them. Your BIG problem will be removing the remains of the 2 bolts. I would try to soak them up with liquid wrench and all that kind of stuff. Give it a couple of days to soak in. The "weldments" (threaded abutments) are only 3/4" in diameter, so there is not too much material there to play around with. If you have to drill into the exisiting bolts, make sure you drill with a small enough bit so as not to run the danger of drilling into the threads. If you damage the threads, then a helix coil kit will do the job. The bolts are 1.5" 5/16" Dia, 16 threads/inch. Have fun. Regards, Ted
Great info Ted
Have remains soaking in Liquid Wrench. Trailer Sailor board also suggested "PB Blaster" (or something like that) it is supposed to be better than LW. Since I can't seem to drill a straight hole through old bolt head and shank, I have come up with a piece of 3/4" long brass tubing that I will use as a bushing to keep drill bit centered, for, Easy Out. The center of the tubing is large enough that the bit will run freely in it. I also wound a few turns of electrical tape around outside of tubing to take up any slack between tubing and wall of hanger casting. Will let you know how that turns out. Finally, still can't fiqure out why keel won't release from hanger end. Did double check the keel locking screw inside cabin. It appears to be frozen also. Was only able to turn it about 3/4 of a turn. That is also soaking in LW. Thanks sooooo much for response!!!
Have remains soaking in Liquid Wrench. Trailer Sailor board also suggested "PB Blaster" (or something like that) it is supposed to be better than LW. Since I can't seem to drill a straight hole through old bolt head and shank, I have come up with a piece of 3/4" long brass tubing that I will use as a bushing to keep drill bit centered, for, Easy Out. The center of the tubing is large enough that the bit will run freely in it. I also wound a few turns of electrical tape around outside of tubing to take up any slack between tubing and wall of hanger casting. Will let you know how that turns out. Finally, still can't fiqure out why keel won't release from hanger end. Did double check the keel locking screw inside cabin. It appears to be frozen also. Was only able to turn it about 3/4 of a turn. That is also soaking in LW. Thanks sooooo much for response!!!
Great info Ted
Have remains soaking in Liquid Wrench. Trailer Sailor board also suggested "PB Blaster" (or something like that) it is supposed to be better than LW. Since I can't seem to drill a straight hole through old bolt head and shank, I have come up with a piece of 3/4" long brass tubing that I will use as a bushing to keep drill bit centered, for, Easy Out. The center of the tubing is large enough that the bit will run freely in it. I also wound a few turns of electrical tape around outside of tubing to take up any slack between tubing and wall of hanger casting. Will let you know how that turns out. Finally, still can't fiqure out why keel won't release from hanger end. Did double check the keel locking screw inside cabin. It appears to be frozen also. Was only able to turn it about 3/4 of a turn. That is also soaking in LW. Thanks sooooo much for response!!!
Have remains soaking in Liquid Wrench. Trailer Sailor board also suggested "PB Blaster" (or something like that) it is supposed to be better than LW. Since I can't seem to drill a straight hole through old bolt head and shank, I have come up with a piece of 3/4" long brass tubing that I will use as a bushing to keep drill bit centered, for, Easy Out. The center of the tubing is large enough that the bit will run freely in it. I also wound a few turns of electrical tape around outside of tubing to take up any slack between tubing and wall of hanger casting. Will let you know how that turns out. Finally, still can't fiqure out why keel won't release from hanger end. Did double check the keel locking screw inside cabin. It appears to be frozen also. Was only able to turn it about 3/4 of a turn. That is also soaking in LW. Thanks sooooo much for response!!!
Keel update
The wind started to blow in cold weather today, so, I was going to put off working on boat. However, I did take a peek at the keel, and, the hanger end has released, and now resting on the sled blocks. Next, have to jack up hull off trailer about 10" and slide that keel out. Then, I can see if I can work on the sheared of bolts. Stay tuned.
The wind started to blow in cold weather today, so, I was going to put off working on boat. However, I did take a peek at the keel, and, the hanger end has released, and now resting on the sled blocks. Next, have to jack up hull off trailer about 10" and slide that keel out. Then, I can see if I can work on the sheared of bolts. Stay tuned.
Keel update
The wind started to blow in cold weather today, so, I was going to put off working on boat. However, I did take a peek at the keel, and, the hanger end has released, and now resting on the sled blocks. Next, have to jack up hull off trailer about 10" and slide that keel out. Then, I can see if I can work on the sheared of bolts. Stay tuned.
The wind started to blow in cold weather today, so, I was going to put off working on boat. However, I did take a peek at the keel, and, the hanger end has released, and now resting on the sled blocks. Next, have to jack up hull off trailer about 10" and slide that keel out. Then, I can see if I can work on the sheared of bolts. Stay tuned.
Drilling broken keel bolts
George: You're on the right track. The brass tubing to drill through is a good idea. If the bolt broken end is on an angle, the drill will still try to run off & jam against the brass tube. It would help the situation if you can reach in & center punch the bolt. Drill a small pilot hole first like 1/8". This will keep the larger drill bit on track. Be extremely careful when using the easy out & tap as they can break too!! Good luck, I've been there. Bob B.
George: You're on the right track. The brass tubing to drill through is a good idea. If the bolt broken end is on an angle, the drill will still try to run off & jam against the brass tube. It would help the situation if you can reach in & center punch the bolt. Drill a small pilot hole first like 1/8". This will keep the larger drill bit on track. Be extremely careful when using the easy out & tap as they can break too!! Good luck, I've been there. Bob B.
Drilling broken keel bolts
George: You're on the right track. The brass tubing to drill through is a good idea. If the bolt broken end is on an angle, the drill will still try to run off & jam against the brass tube. It would help the situation if you can reach in & center punch the bolt. Drill a small pilot hole first like 1/8". This will keep the larger drill bit on track. Be extremely careful when using the easy out & tap as they can break too!! Good luck, I've been there. Bob B.
George: You're on the right track. The brass tubing to drill through is a good idea. If the bolt broken end is on an angle, the drill will still try to run off & jam against the brass tube. It would help the situation if you can reach in & center punch the bolt. Drill a small pilot hole first like 1/8". This will keep the larger drill bit on track. Be extremely careful when using the easy out & tap as they can break too!! Good luck, I've been there. Bob B.
Thank Bob!!
Had not thought of the center punch idea. I think I will try the 1/8" pilot bit also. Since that is a fine bit, I may try to fashion a centering guide out of hardwood doweling to guide it.
Had not thought of the center punch idea. I think I will try the 1/8" pilot bit also. Since that is a fine bit, I may try to fashion a centering guide out of hardwood doweling to guide it.
replacing the weldments
George, Sorry for your bad luck with the bolts, the weldments are a sleeve so becareful while drilling. If you have to remove and replace them Catalina seemed to think cutting through the liner and replacing from inside the boat is the way to do it. I suppose it would be easier than trying to do it upside down. Were all hoping you can get the bolts out but if however you can't and have to replace the welments C/D has them. I'm sending you the diagram that came from Catalina on replacing the weldment. Good luck. http://tinyurl.com/6bzff
George, Sorry for your bad luck with the bolts, the weldments are a sleeve so becareful while drilling. If you have to remove and replace them Catalina seemed to think cutting through the liner and replacing from inside the boat is the way to do it. I suppose it would be easier than trying to do it upside down. Were all hoping you can get the bolts out but if however you can't and have to replace the welments C/D has them. I'm sending you the diagram that came from Catalina on replacing the weldment. Good luck. http://tinyurl.com/6bzff
removing broken bolts
One thing you ought to consider using for pilot holes is a dremel tool with chuck and small bits using high speed and a steady hand makes it possible to drill center on most any irregular surface. The trick with small bits (any bits for that matter) is NEVER HURRY cause if they break they make you situation REALLY BAD! a steady hand and good eye and lots and lots of patience can see you through these jobs! also if a bolt is big enough diameter, even missing center a small amount can be corrected to some degree wih rotory file on dremel. And even if the old broken bolt is cross threaded and galled in patience can win out in the end because by staying centered and working larger and larger hole till you get to the base of broken bolt's thread, means the the individual threads fall out or at least can be picked out and finally chased out carefully with tap, cutting oil and back and forth action on tap handle... if you have the tools the time, the eye for it, and a steady hand you can win these games every time! good luck if you have not finished yet... and if you have then perhaps this will encourage someone else
One thing you ought to consider using for pilot holes is a dremel tool with chuck and small bits using high speed and a steady hand makes it possible to drill center on most any irregular surface. The trick with small bits (any bits for that matter) is NEVER HURRY cause if they break they make you situation REALLY BAD! a steady hand and good eye and lots and lots of patience can see you through these jobs! also if a bolt is big enough diameter, even missing center a small amount can be corrected to some degree wih rotory file on dremel. And even if the old broken bolt is cross threaded and galled in patience can win out in the end because by staying centered and working larger and larger hole till you get to the base of broken bolt's thread, means the the individual threads fall out or at least can be picked out and finally chased out carefully with tap, cutting oil and back and forth action on tap handle... if you have the tools the time, the eye for it, and a steady hand you can win these games every time! good luck if you have not finished yet... and if you have then perhaps this will encourage someone else
removing broken bolts
One thing you ought to consider using for pilot holes is a dremel tool with chuck and small bits using high speed and a steady hand makes it possible to drill center on most any irregular surface. The trick with small bits (any bits for that matter) is NEVER HURRY cause if they break they make you situation REALLY BAD! a steady hand and good eye and lots and lots of patience can see you through these jobs! also if a bolt is big enough diameter, even missing center a small amount can be corrected to some degree wih rotory file on dremel. And even if the old broken bolt is cross threaded and galled in patience can win out in the end because by staying centered and working larger and larger hole till you get to the base of broken bolt's thread, means the the individual threads fall out or at least can be picked out and finally chased out carefully with tap, cutting oil and back and forth action on tap handle... if you have the tools the time, the eye for it, and a steady hand you can win these games every time! good luck if you have not finished yet... and if you have then perhaps this will encourage someone else
One thing you ought to consider using for pilot holes is a dremel tool with chuck and small bits using high speed and a steady hand makes it possible to drill center on most any irregular surface. The trick with small bits (any bits for that matter) is NEVER HURRY cause if they break they make you situation REALLY BAD! a steady hand and good eye and lots and lots of patience can see you through these jobs! also if a bolt is big enough diameter, even missing center a small amount can be corrected to some degree wih rotory file on dremel. And even if the old broken bolt is cross threaded and galled in patience can win out in the end because by staying centered and working larger and larger hole till you get to the base of broken bolt's thread, means the the individual threads fall out or at least can be picked out and finally chased out carefully with tap, cutting oil and back and forth action on tap handle... if you have the tools the time, the eye for it, and a steady hand you can win these games every time! good luck if you have not finished yet... and if you have then perhaps this will encourage someone else
Santa said Dremel also!!!!!!
Santa must be telling me the same thing, in his own way. He brought the newest model with a bunch of attachments. My wife, who builds miniature things, said to look in her work shop when I needed to use it. Thanks for yet another tip. Guys, if I can't correct this problem with all the ideas you have given me (and, Santa's help) I am in real trouble. Doug, will let everyone know what the results are.
Santa must be telling me the same thing, in his own way. He brought the newest model with a bunch of attachments. My wife, who builds miniature things, said to look in her work shop when I needed to use it. Thanks for yet another tip. Guys, if I can't correct this problem with all the ideas you have given me (and, Santa's help) I am in real trouble. Doug, will let everyone know what the results are.
Santa said Dremel also!!!!!!
Santa must be telling me the same thing, in his own way. He brought the newest model with a bunch of attachments. My wife, who builds miniature things, said to look in her work shop when I needed to use it. Thanks for yet another tip. Guys, if I can't correct this problem with all the ideas you have given me (and, Santa's help) I am in real trouble. Doug, will let everyone know what the results are.
Santa must be telling me the same thing, in his own way. He brought the newest model with a bunch of attachments. My wife, who builds miniature things, said to look in her work shop when I needed to use it. Thanks for yet another tip. Guys, if I can't correct this problem with all the ideas you have given me (and, Santa's help) I am in real trouble. Doug, will let everyone know what the results are.
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