Buying 1985 Mac 25

[Piotr]

Thanks for ideas, gentlemen. I bought a couple of oak 1/8 inch planks and will try to fashion rub strips out of them. If that doesn't work, I will try to rub some wax (or paraffin).
And now, I finally got a fiberglass specialist to look at the boat (I noticed before what seemed to be an old repair at the bottom). Apparently, there is no need for repairs (no active cracks), but he noticed that the gell coat and even some fiberglass was rubbed off the bottom along the centerline - some on the bow, and some right behind swing keel. He suggested adding some fiberglass to build up the thickness of the fiberglass. He'll do it for $850 without painting. Personally, I think it's a bit stiff. I believe his point it that he will need 2 days to do it, even though the work itself will not take that long. Unfortunately, he does not have any other work to fill in the time, so he is charging me for 2 days. Do you believe that's reasonable? The one spot can be done from the outside, the other (bow) from the inside.
Any thoughts?

 

[Sumner]

.........Do you believe that's reasonable? ...

From what you are saying, NO.

Would you consider doing it yourself? Materials can't be that much and glass isn't that hard to work with. Even if you had to buy some tools at least you would have them when the job is done and still save money.

If he isn't going to paint it then or you going to? You could get some of Sea Hawks tuff stuff by the quart and use that as a barrier coat and then decide what if anything went over that. If he doesn't paint it I would think you would have to.

If none of the above works for you then get a second quote and opinion. Remember this is the bottom of a boat and not the space shuttle . It doesn't have to be perfect.

Good luck,

Sum

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[Piotr]

OK, Gentlemen, here is the summary to date:
1. All foam replaced ($400)
2. The wood replaced (2 days work, $145)
3. Weak spot in the keel trunk fixed (Fiberglass almost rubbed through by the keel - $300)
4. New (used) 130% genoa bought ($225)
5. main sheet and halyard replaced ($100)
6. two standard genny cleats replaced with 2 jamcleats ($40)
7. Backplate for the outboard almost replaced (all done just needs to be installed - $0)
8. fixed the rudder ($15)
9. The genny winches sealed and tightened

Remaining work (I have 4 weeks before launch):
1. Install 2 extra jamcleats for the jib
2. fix (with epoxy) rubbed off gelcoat/fiberglass off the bow
3. replace seal around forward hatch and the cockpit locker top (plus likely the companionway hatch)
4. Drop the keel, inspect, paint, replace cable and pivot bolts, reinstall (that's the scary one...)
5. wash/compound the boat, place new name (Deep Blew)
6. epoxy a couple of cracks in the interior liner
7. put the battery in and check the electric system
8. Install a block system for raising of the outboard
9. tune the rigging (shrouds are very slack)
10. paint the bottom.
11. test the outboard
12 replace a couple of sheaves in the garhauer deck organizers

Here are a couple of questions - what is the proper placement of the weather seals - should I put them on the boat or on the moveable parts (hatches)?
Also, I am completely confused about the keel - should I lock it with a pin or not (my slip down Chesapeake is about 5 ft deep, but I will be moving the boat to it in a navigational channel. So lock it or not)?
My spreaders appear to be drooping a bit (one by about an inch) - is that normal with slack shrouds?
Considering what happened in San Diego, I'm getting paranoid about losing keel. If that happens under sail in normal conditions, what is the likelyhood od capsizing (I know the theory, I'm looking for a real world experience)
Thanks for any help, advice, comments, etc.

 

[Timo42]

Seals should go where they are most protected, usually on the hatch, the spreaders should angle up slightly, get a copy of Brion Toss' book, The Rigger's Apprentice, if you haven't dropped the mast to inspect the standing rigging, do it before you launch. A Loos gauge will help you to even out the shroud tension, you are going to end up slightly looser than the instructions recommend, but it's a light boat. Keel pin should be in when sailing, if you think you will ground near your slip, put the pin in when you get to deep water, carry spares. Replace the keel cable, if the winch is questionable, replace it too, cheap insurance. Check the electrical sooner rather than later, the original wiring wasn't the best. All you need for daysailing is the radio, so major upgrades can wait a little, but you don't want to be surprised the day before launch. Think of it as an old VW, you don't have to make it pretty right away, as long as it runs. Part of the fun of these boats is that you can fix it up the way you like it, look at Sumner's boat, and mine for that matter. The one in San Diego was water ballast, completely different boat.

 

[Piotr]

Thanks, Timo. I understand the San Diego situation (possibly overloaded Mac 26 with possibly incorrectly filled water ballast), but it makes me paranoid anyway. Now, another question - how does the mainsail clew get attached to the boom? On my Catalina I have a threaded "thumb bolt" that gets screwed directly into the boom. I don't think I have anything like that on the Mac?
Also, considering a potential damage to the keel trunk (and I read ALL the posts about it, which made me even more confused...) with the keel locked in, considering a very low possibility of getting a knockdown on Chesapeake (if it's that windy, I'm not going sailing) would it be better not to lock the keel? Or, use a sacrificial (plastic or wood) dowel instead?

 

[Timo42]

There should be an eyestrap bolted to the top of the boom at the rear, tie the clew to that as tight as possible. Eventually you may want an outhaul, but don't worry about it now. Not a fan of wood or plastic dowels, because when you need the bolt to hold, they won't cut it. If you aren't going out when it is windy, you aren't going to be going fast enough to do any damage to the trunk. Get a depth finder and stay in deeper water if you are worried. Gusts of wind can't be predicted but depth can.

 

[Piotr]

There should be an eyestrap bolted to the top of the boom at the rear, tie the clew to that as tight as possible. Eventually you may want an outhaul, but don't worry about it now. Not a fan of wood or plastic dowels, because when you need the bolt to hold, they won't cut it. If you aren't going out when it is windy, you aren't going to be going fast enough to do any damage to the trunk. Get a depth finder and stay in deeper water if you are worried. Gusts of wind can't be predicted but depth can.

Thanks! However, I goofed. I meant tack, not clew. The PO installed a line for clew (not an outhaul, just a line exiting through a hole in boom), so I'm OK with that (outhaul is the next year's project, along with a boom vang and a reefing system).

 

[Timo42]

For the tack, there should be a hole through the sailtrack at the front of the boom that a clevis pin goes through.

 

[Piotr]

For the tack, there should be a hole through the sailtrack at the front of the boom that a clevis pin goes through.

There is. Thanks.

 

[Piotr]

Update

For those of you that care, here is the summary to date:
1. All foam replaced ($400)
2. The wood replaced (2 days work, $145)
3. Weak spot in the keel trunk fixed (Fiberglass almost rubbed through by the keel - $300)
4. New (used) 130% genoa bought ($225)
5. main sheet and halyard replaced ($100)
6. two standard genny cleats replaced with 2 jamcleats ($40)
7. Backplate for the outboard almost replaced (all done just needs to be installed - $0)
8. fixed the rudder ($15)
9. The genny winches sealed and tightened
10 Installed 2 extra jamcleats for the jib
11. fixed (with epoxy) rubbed off gelcoat/fiberglass off the bow
12. did not drop the keel, but replaced pivot bolt (cable bolts appears to be new) and inspected the bolt hole - no elongation or cracks apparent, the keel was fixed with epoxy (and likely sand blasted) before and is in good condition. sanded it the best I could, primed with zinc chromate primer and painted with interlux antifouling aluminum paint.
13. washed and compound the boat and placed the new name (Deep Blew)
14. epoxied a couple of cracks in the interior liner
15. Installed a block system for raising of the outboard
16. painted the bottom.
17. replaced a couple of sheaves in the garhauer deck organizers (used bronze sheaves from metal blocks I've got for $6 a piece at lowes - fit perfectly)

Remaining work (boat launch Friday pm - 48 hrs away)

1.replace seal around forward hatch and the cockpit locker top (plus likely the companionway hatch).
2. test the outboard (the marina owner told me they ferried the boat for 2 hrs with no problems in October).
3. tune the rigging (I'm going to do it in a KISS way - counting holes)
4. put the battery in and check the electric system - at this point it either works or it doesn't. I hope SOMETHING works - like an outboard starter.
5. Finish cleaning (still water in the bilge and gas smell).
6. Install cushions and curtains wife bought.
THEN sail 40 miles down Chesapeake...:dance:

 

[MrMikey64]

It'd be great to see some pics when you're done!

 

[Piotr]

It'd be great to see some pics when you're done!

I have a few that I'll try posting.


Here are the first impressions from the first sail:

1. The whole electrical system is fried (melted wires) and the elecric plug for the mast light is missing.
2. The outboard worked fine, but I pulled a muscle in my side trying to reach the controls while docking (see#7 below).
3. When the marine forecast for Chesapeake Bay says "10 kts wind WNW with 1 ft waves" it means SOMETIME during the day SOMEWHERE on the Bay. We started with 10 kts with 12 kts puffs which turn into 15-17 kts sustained winds and 20-25kts gusts (whitecaps in the upper Chesapeake) from WSW which caused 2-2.5 ft waves. And I was NOT prepared for reefing, which resulted in blood smears all over the boat (bleeding knuckles and a cut). Luckily, I was able to reef in the end.
4. No idea why, but I cannot find a locking bolt hole in the keel. Which made keel swing a bit in 2.5 ft waves with boat heeling about 20 deg.
5. Once the channel turned to about SE, the boat streghten up, the wind died down to about 10 kts, and I took out the reef. After which the wind jumped to 15-18kts, the waves built, and I SWEAR the boat started planing, because I made up 1/2 hr delay in the last 10 miles of the trip, and I calculated my times based on the max hull speed. It was exciting and tiring, as the boat wanted to gybe down waves.
6. The dreaded weather helm did not materialized - at least it was not any worse than on my Catalina 18.
7. You cannot operate the outboard controls without extensions for a gear shift and throttle and NOT crash into the dock. You simply cannot see over the cabin, and to shift you have to look over the transom and down toward the engine. Luckily, my wife's excited cries (not of joy) attracted attention of our neighbours in the adjoining slips and they prevented a disaster - to my absolute embarassment. BUT, I learned that it's better to steer with the rudder and NOT the outboard.
8. More first impressions later.

 

[Piotr]

first impressions continued.
9. The boat is very jittery and light (compared to Catalina 18). This requires constant course corrections.
10 The rudder is somewhat lose in the head, so it gives an impression of being imprecise. I tightened the rudder according to specs.
11. The cushions seem to be sliding all over the place. would velcro work???
12. Boom vang and an outhaul are a must. Going down wind I was very nervous seeing how far the boom was lifting. Reefing without an outhaul was difficult.
13. The block an tackle for an outboard were an excellent suggestions.
14. More later...

 

[timebandit]

Here is my $1.00 shifter and for docking I just leve the throttle at a faster than normal idle and just shift between foward and reverse quickly.

 

[Piotr]

Here is my $1.00 shifter and for docking I just leve the throttle at a faster than normal idle and just shift between foward and reverse quickly.

The pic did not load, but I thought of using a split 1/2 PVS pipe attached to the shifter with a clamp. I assume you are steering with a rudder, not the outboard? I also thought of adding a similar extension to throttle.

 

[timebandit]

Check out page 6 for more pictures of the shifter.
Yes I steer with the rudder, after all that is what it is there for.
http://s361.photobucket.com/albums/oo57/Tmebandt/?firstLogin=true#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ20

 

[Piotr]

Check out page 6 for more pictures of the shifter.
Yes I steer with the rudder, after all that is what it is there for.
http://s361.photobucket.com/albums/oo57/Tmebandt/?firstLogin=true#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ20

I asked about steering because I worried that with the keel raised the boat will not track well in the dock, and my space is rather tight. Now, I will need to rewire the electrical system - at least inside the cabin/bilge. Assuming my outboard actually does have battery charger, any idea where can I find help? I'll try taking pictures of the mess that I have now...

 

[Piotr]

some pics

The first pic is from the advert about the boat. The next one is me taking off the sail cover before going down Chesapeake. Then the setee, and finally Deep Blew at the new dock.