Buying 1985 Mac 25

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caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
You will be able to point higher witht the genoa.
 

Piotr

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Dec 6, 2010
848
MacGregor 25 Rock Hall, MD
True, but with reacher being lighter and bigger, wouldn't the gains in speed offset the pointing abilities of genoa? I believe that the optimum direction off wind for reacher is 55-155 degrees. I seem to remember that genoa is around 40 degrees. would that 15 degs. make so much diffreence? I'm asking for practical experience, not theory, of course. Plus each boat has good/bad points in that regard. So what would be your personal preference here?
 

caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
I used my Genoa all of the time and the Asymmetrical mostly on broad reach or down wind. When you want to go somewhere 15* is a lot.
 

Piotr

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Dec 6, 2010
848
MacGregor 25 Rock Hall, MD
OK, thanks. I'll look for a 130% - 150% genoa then.
The first success - bought two sheets (27" X 2.5 yrds) of 3 " foam from JoAnn's Fabric store for a $100 (New Year's sale- 50% off!). I was able to replace the port side cushions. I'm planning to go back tomorrow and pick up two sheets of 2" and 2 of 1" foam to replace the v-berth cushions (I'll have to improvise since the v-berth cushions are 30" across at the widest- I'll use 2 separet pieces, but will stagger the cut between 1" and 2" thick foam ). Anyway, if anybody want's to pick up some foam at 50% off, the sale ends on Sunday!
 
Jun 3, 2004
1,863
Macgregor 25 So. Cal.
I redid my v-berth this way so that I had easy access to the opening under and dont have to sleep in the crack.
 

caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
not a bad idea Bandit, there's a lot less waste of foam and material too.
 

Piotr

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Dec 6, 2010
848
MacGregor 25 Rock Hall, MD
Nice! However, I'm reusing the original covers (despite that horrid plaid pattern). Anyway, I emptied two JoAnn's Fabric stores of their 3" foam. Hey, at 50% off, it was a DEAL!
 

Sumner

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Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
Nice! However, I'm reusing the original covers (despite that horrid plaid pattern). Anyway, I emptied two JoAnn's Fabric stores of their 3" foam. Hey, at 50% off, it was a DEAL!
If you need more or anyone else needs some. The Foam Factory....

http://www.foamreplacement.com/index.html

....has their best quality foam in the same quantity of foam that you picked up in your first post for less than $90 and that includes free shipping and no tax. Of course you have to wait a week or so depending where you live :cry:.

We also did....



http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor/inside-5.html

...what TB did for the same reason and used the Lux Foam - High Quality in 4 inch. We can now access the....



... 3 storage areas under the V-berth by removing only the cushion above that area. Works great. We used sheets as covers for the cushions and a couple are only bobby pinned together at this time until we get the boat back home and Ruth has the time to finish them.

Good luck with the cushions and post pictures when you are done,

Sum

Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID

Our Mac Pages

Mac-Venture Links
 

caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
Nice! However, I'm reusing the original covers (despite that horrid plaid pattern). Anyway, I emptied two JoAnn's Fabric stores of their 3" foam. Hey, at 50% off, it was a DEAL!
I stopped by Joanne's and even at half price $25/yd for 3"x27" is really no bargain.
 

Piotr

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Dec 6, 2010
848
MacGregor 25 Rock Hall, MD
That's funny (strange). We priced everything via Foam Factory and to redo all of the interior cushions would cost us around $600. We ordered one sheet (for the setee cushions) for $200. I paid $200 total for JoAnn's Fabric foam. So it cost me $400 for $200 savings. If I bought ONLY from JoAnn's, the whole job would cost $300 or 50% of the cost from Foam Factory.
So, what am I missing?
 

Sumner

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Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
That's funny (strange). We priced everything via Foam Factory and to redo all of the interior cushions would cost us around $600. We ordered one sheet (for the setee cushions) for $200. I paid $200 total for JoAnn's Fabric foam. So it cost me $400 for $200 savings. If I bought ONLY from JoAnn's, the whole job would cost $300 or 50% of the cost from Foam Factory.
So, what am I missing?
Well for one I screwed up :redface:. I went back and read your orginal post and if I understand it now correctly you got 2 sheets of 3 X 27 X 90 for $100. When I posted I thought you got one.

Here are the prices on Foambymail, same company using their pricing where you put in the dimension for one sheet 3 X 27 X 90...

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]HD36 Foam - High Quality [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]$86.07 [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]HD36 Foam - Regular [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]$59.74 [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Lux Foam - High Quality [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]$87.08 [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Lux Foam - Regular [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]$60.75 [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Poly Foam [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]$47.09 [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Super Soft Foam [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]$48.10 [/SIZE][/FONT]

.....I'm not sure which of their foams below is comparable to JoAnn's. Maybe you know which one below is like what JoAnn's sells. On the Foam Factory site they say that the Poly Foam is for crafts, so I'm wondering if that is what is sold at JoAnns. If it is the poly then JoAnn's isn't the cheapest, but if it is one of the other ones then you did save some money.

I posted mainly because there are others like Ruth and I that aren't near any place that has quality foam and thought it would maybe help them. We used the Lux - High Quality below in 4 inch for the V-berth and in the 3 inch for the seat cushions. We wouldn't want anything softer and it has a long life span.

One advantage I do see for the internet site is that you can specify the exact sizes you want and not have to buy a larger sheet where you might have waste in cutting the cushions from it. I don't see a cost penalty for doing this either. The other plus for us is no tax, saving probably $6-$8 per hundred and no car/gas usage.

Sorry for the confusion on my part,

Sum

...[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]FOAM TYPES[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Poly Foam[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]A medium firmness foam suggested for occasional use. Poly foam can be used for cushions, mattresses, as well as packaging and crafts. Foam has a typical life of 1-2 years. (Poly foam is a 1.3 lb/ft3 density with a 39lb ILD)[/FONT]



[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Super Soft Foam[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]A soft foam suggested for regular use. Super soft foam is suggested for the back of sofa cushions, mattress toppers and mattresses for individuals with bed sores. Foam has a typical life of 5 years. (Super Soft foam is a 1.2 lb/ft3 density with a 15lb ILD)[/FONT]



[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]HD36 Foam - High Quality[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Medium foam for regular or heavy use. HD36 Foam - HQ is a high quality foam suggested for seats, chairs, cushions, benches, and mattresses. Foam has a typical life of 16 years. (HD36-HQ foam is a 2.8 lb/ft3 density with a 38lb ILD)[/FONT]



[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Lux Foam - High Quality[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Firm foam for regular or heavy use. Lux Foam - HQ is a high quality foam suggested for seats, chairs, cushions, benches, and mattresses. Foam has a typical life of 16 years. (Lux-HQ foam is a 2.8 lb/ft3 density with a 55lb ILD)[/FONT]



[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]HD36 Foam - Regular[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Medium foam for regular use. HD36 Foam - R is suggested for seats, chairs, cushions, benches, and mattresses. Foam has a typical life of 7 years. (HD36-R foam is a 2.0 lb/ft3 density with a 38lb ILD)[/FONT]



[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Lux Foam - Regular[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Firm foam for regular use. Lux Foam - R is suggested for seats, chairs, cushions, benches, and mattresses. Foam has a typical life of 7 years. (Lux-R foam is a 2.0 lb/ft3 density with a 55lb ILD)[/FONT]
 

Piotr

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Dec 6, 2010
848
MacGregor 25 Rock Hall, MD
It's likely Lux Regular. the difference is that for setee we bought quickdry marine grade foam - that's where the money went. Anyway, I expect to reuse some of the scrap foam at home on variety projects, so not much will be wasted. Anyway, thanks for the info. I have WAY more questions coming.
 

Piotr

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Dec 6, 2010
848
MacGregor 25 Rock Hall, MD
And now, for something completely different - I went stupid. I just redid the rudder assembly (sand/paint tiller, re-hardware it, fix gelcoat on the rudder, remount everything) and simply forgot to sketch how to run the lines for raising/lowering the rudder. Could anyone post a sketch or a picture of it? I cannot find the danged thing on Google anywhere...
 

caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
And now, for something completely different - I went stupid. I just redid the rudder assembly (sand/paint tiller, re-hardware it, fix gelcoat on the rudder, remount everything) and simply forgot to sketch how to run the lines for raising/lowering the rudder. Could anyone post a sketch or a picture of it? I cannot find the danged thing on Google anywhere...
Can you post a picture of what you've got since there were no lines for raising and lowering the rudder. Here was my variation of that theme.
 

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Piotr

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Dec 6, 2010
848
MacGregor 25 Rock Hall, MD
Similar, except that I have a cheek block bolted to the rudder head (where you have a "small block"), and an extra hole near the lower end of the rudder (aft side).
 

caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
if you post pics it would be easier to guess.
 

Piotr

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Dec 6, 2010
848
MacGregor 25 Rock Hall, MD
OK, the rudder is all done (an extra hole is not for a line - no idea what's it for, but I just left it alone - anyway, it's not all the way through). Not the best gelcoat repair (the PO had a rudder-propeller accident), but I figured the rudder will be in the water anyway.
Cushions all done too. It took 4 weeks of airing/vinegar wash/baking soda applications to get the gas smell out of the cushion covers, but it worked and it's done. Got the keel hardware from BYW, and the Ida Sailor guys promised me new teak slides by the end of January.

Now I just need some warmer weather to get the keel done, fix all the worn-out screw holes for the bulkheads, replace the main halyard (new, but too short) and use it as a jib halyard, install the clam cleats for the jibsheet and halyard, check the electrical system, fix the electric panel, compound and wax the baot, and then in April put the bottom paint on, launch it, and sail it for 8 hours down Chesapeake. Oh, and get a cheap Genoa if I can...:doh:
 

Piotr

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Dec 6, 2010
848
MacGregor 25 Rock Hall, MD
The slides

I just got the new teak slides from IdaSailor. It appears to me that the hatch is supposed to slide in the top of the deck instead of in/on the teak runners. Is that correct? It appears to be an idiotic design, as the hatch continue to rub off the gelcoat. In fact, I'm down to the fiberglass in a few spots. Any solution to that problem?
 
May 4, 2005
4,062
Macgregor 26d Ft Lauderdale, Fl
I think the extra hole in the rudder is to let the air out, so it sinks....

and the sliding top does ride on the gelkote, by design. you could add some rub strips is you really want. (maybe to the bottom of the sliding top).

ps: most add a small metal or wooden plate to the rudder castle, to firm it up...




 
Jun 3, 2004
1,863
Macgregor 25 So. Cal.
I rub a little candle wax (just like a drawer) on the top with the slider wide open and it works alot easer.


I just got the new teak slides from IdaSailor. It appears to me that the hatch is supposed to slide in the top of the deck instead of in/on the teak runners. Is that correct? It appears to be an idiotic design, as the hatch continue to rub off the gelcoat. In fact, I'm down to the fiberglass in a few spots. Any solution to that problem?
 
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