Has anyone replaced their backstay with high strength line.
I am thinking this will be easier on the full roach main.
I am thinking this will be easier on the full roach main.
Backstay
- Thread starter Dfox
- Start date
I did a few years ago with a 5:1 rig and high performance line (can't think of the name of the stuff when I'm on the spot). All is good and got about 3 years out of the line before replacing it-the UV burns it out. It's strong and does the job very well.
vectran
amsteel blue
or tech 12
or spectra
I did a synthetic backstay and flicker on my S2... this guy has a great breakdown how to make a cascaded backstay, alter the plans to get the right length, or use the existing one to figure lengths...
http://hottamaleracing.com/misc_files/backstay.xls
amsteel blue
or tech 12
or spectra
I did a synthetic backstay and flicker on my S2... this guy has a great breakdown how to make a cascaded backstay, alter the plans to get the right length, or use the existing one to figure lengths...
http://hottamaleracing.com/misc_files/backstay.xls
You could get some additional life out of the high-tech line by slipping it inside a polyester yacht braid cover. I wonder if you could varnish it for lightweight UV protection?
Well, we are talking about UV degradation of a highly stressed polyethylene item that spends 6 months a year in the outdoors (assuming you remove it or cover every inch during the winter). And, it's not likely to let go in sweet 5 mph chardonnay-sipping conditions. Sounds like a candidate for preventive replacement to me. The question is how often? Does it typically show signs of stress like 1x19 stainless does, or look good until it pops?
I know it's popular among the racing set to reduce chafing on leechy mains and reduce weight aloft and I'm all for it. I'd just want to know what else comes with the package.
I know it's popular among the racing set to reduce chafing on leechy mains and reduce weight aloft and I'm all for it. I'd just want to know what else comes with the package.
The amsteel lifeline guys say every 2 years... and that's a number I am comfortable with for a shroud as well. ANY signs of chafe, it should be replaced immediately.
My whole backstay cost exactly (48 feet including 4 stainless thimbles), was $58.04, shipped.
My whole backstay cost exactly (48 feet including 4 stainless thimbles), was $58.04, shipped.
Gents,
Interesting idea, should work well. Anyone running an adjustable backstay? or is that part of the "racing package"? 'Scuse my ignorance here, I'm talking myself into becoming a new owner, been out of the sailing loop for a while. But I've yet to sail on the Catalina Capri 22, (CC22?). And the boat I'm looking at is clearly the "standard daysailer". It'd be an easy addition to the spectra backstay setup, pair of small fiddle blocks, one with cleat, and a bit of extra line. Great way to alter the mast/mainsail shape.
Cheers,
R*2
Interesting idea, should work well. Anyone running an adjustable backstay? or is that part of the "racing package"? 'Scuse my ignorance here, I'm talking myself into becoming a new owner, been out of the sailing loop for a while. But I've yet to sail on the Catalina Capri 22, (CC22?). And the boat I'm looking at is clearly the "standard daysailer". It'd be an easy addition to the spectra backstay setup, pair of small fiddle blocks, one with cleat, and a bit of extra line. Great way to alter the mast/mainsail shape.
Cheers,
R*2
Maybe a picture will help? This is obviously my S2, but the principle applies to the Capri. This is also overkill and allows adjustment from either side (handy when the winds pipe up)....
Also I added a flicker, to clear the roach of the main, you must release the backstay for the roach to clear nicely, but then reapply after your tack.
Also I added a flicker, to clear the roach of the main, you must release the backstay for the roach to clear nicely, but then reapply after your tack.
I'm adding a flicker to the Back Stay to help it clear the Main. I just installed a single 40 inch long batten on the mast head and am wondering if that's enough to actually raise the back stay when slacked on a tack. I don't have the spectra back stay but a standard CD issue wire one.
So before I put the stick back up, I was wondering if I should double up on the battens on the mast head. I know about the weight aloft issue but if the flicker doesn't do anything then having the single batten up there is a waste of weight anyway.
I think I can simply bolt the two on top of each other on the mast head and pass the ring that connects them to the back stay through both. Before I proceed thought I'd ask for any and all thoughts and opinions...
So before I put the stick back up, I was wondering if I should double up on the battens on the mast head. I know about the weight aloft issue but if the flicker doesn't do anything then having the single batten up there is a waste of weight anyway.
I think I can simply bolt the two on top of each other on the mast head and pass the ring that connects them to the back stay through both. Before I proceed thought I'd ask for any and all thoughts and opinions...
Yes it is part of the racing package and includes a safety line to prevent the mast to topple if the adjustable backstab line lets loose....
See picture
See picture
As far as I knew the racing package did not include a mast head flicker. Can any one comment on how stiff the Flicker batten should be?
Since you are referencing a traditional cable, instead of synthetic, it'd be hard to answer, I can say that my 40" batten is enough with amsteel blue, AND a harken 50mm carbo block, it raises the backstay away nicely... however, on my S2 the rake of the mast is such that it requires a longer batten then I am using, I'd think 48" might be a better choice.drewlamparello said:
you may be able to tell what I am saying by this picture (look at the roach, and where the backstay intersects):
I'd argue the flicker might not be stiff enough with cable, in fact I'd say it definitely isn't stiff enough.
Thanks Shnool...
You've confirmed my concern.
Short of replacing the cable for my Back stay just yet, I'm going to try laying two battens on top of each other as the flicker to create more lifting strength. If that's messed up then I'll have to drop the mast again and replace the back stay...
Appreciate your comments.
Drew
You've confirmed my concern.
Short of replacing the cable for my Back stay just yet, I'm going to try laying two battens on top of each other as the flicker to create more lifting strength. If that's messed up then I'll have to drop the mast again and replace the back stay...
Appreciate your comments.
Drew
I really question the need for the "safety" line on the factory adjustable backstay. Given that the Capri 22 utilizes swept spreaders, the backstay should not be critical to keeping the rig up. It is very useful as for sail trim. With my prior boat (Pearson Flyer (very similar rig) our backstay was kept quite "soft" unless we needed more forestay tension, and did very little to support the mast when not in use.
The swept spreaders SHOULD definitely keep the rig up, in the event of a complete backstay release.... I'd argue though that it may be better not to test that under heavy load conditions... but then again I've done it repeatedly on my S2 (accidentally full release the backstay upwind in a blow)... I don't have a safety... now it creates an instant depower (and you can feel it), so it kind of self-regulates.