Backstay diagrams

Aug 30, 2016
34
Hunter 23 Tyler
I am looking for an image or diagram of a split backstay for a Hunter 23. I'm having trouble figuring out what all I have here. I know I'm missing a shackle, but I'm also a little confused a bit on the mount points and extra blocks in my system.

If anyone has some pics, I'd really appreciate the help...

IMG_6822.JPG
IMG_6825.JPG
IMG_6826.JPG
 
Aug 30, 2016
34
Hunter 23 Tyler
After doing much digging, I feel fairly certain the extra blocks near the backstay mounts are not part of the splitstay system. I've found the shackles I need, so if anyone has any idea what the blocks are a part of, I'd love to hear it.

Forgive my dumb questions. I'm new to all this. :)
 
Aug 30, 2016
34
Hunter 23 Tyler
Backstay mystery solved. Found an old pic. Now to figure out the extra lines on mast and the blocks on the stern.
6ACB0E23-FCA5-4A21-8DE8-9AA851598263.jpeg
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,240
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I'm not sure which lines you refer to as "extra" on the mast. The one your finger looks like it is pulling is probably the upper shroud, that should go down to the end of the spreader (looks like that is the starboard side, as I think the wire on the upper side of the mast must be the forestay), held on by a sort of u-bolt, and then down to the outermost chain plate turnbuckle on the deck.
I can't help with the backstay, as mine does not have an adjustable backstay. On mine, two stays attach to the tangs on the stern (not the embedded "bar" that acts as a stern cleat on the 23) with turnbuckles. These lead up to a pair of triangular plates, where the eye at the top of each stay is held in between the plates with a clevis pin. The backstay from the mast crane then attaches to the top corner of this triangle. Other than the turnbuckles, I have no adjusting gear like blocks.
The swivel block in your hand may be part of the topping lift. If its wire leads up to the inner (forwardmost) hole in the mast crane, just ahead of where the backstay attaches, it is almost certainly that. In that case, the previous owner probably rigged it so the running part of the topping lift goes out the rear end of the boom (through one of the sheaves), up to and through the swivel block, and then down to be tied off to the rear end of the boom. That lets you adjust the topping lift with 2-1 mechanical advantage (compared to having the running line exit the boom and go all the way to the mast crane). It also lets you remove the boom before you unstep the mast without having to pull the topping lift out of the boom (the easy part - getting it back in is the problem). You just untie the TL from the aft end of the boom, pull it down out of that block, and leave it in the boom.
I have no idea what that block in your first pic is - I have nothing like that. Possibly part of an after-market or jury rigged adjustable backstay?
 
Aug 30, 2016
34
Hunter 23 Tyler
Ok, so I’ve been researching awhile and think I’ve got it covered. One of the POs made some upgrades: A Spinnaker, Lazy Jacks(I think), & Adjustable backstay. So this explains the blocks in the aft end(spinnaker) & the “extra lines” coming off the mast (lazy jacks).
I’ve learned a ton today, & even managed to build a new breaker panel to boot! Thanks for helping me out with this. It’s an adventure when purchasing a boat, especially if you’re completely new!
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,052
-na -NA Anywhere USA
with your breaker panel, you can order from anyone Sierra switches and breakers but make sure you match the amp. which should be on the back side of the breaker.
 
Sep 9, 2014
30
Hunter 26.5 26.5 North Bay
Just a note on the adjustable back stay, that’s a very good conventional setup that will allow you to put a nice bend in the mast when the wind gets up. This flattens the main and also tightens the forestay. It’s the same setup I retrofitted on my 26.5 and is essential if you want maximum speed and control.