My automatic bilge stopped working. The electric manual bilge pump works fine. I figured the "sure bail" float switch was faulty and went to replace it. I found that the one wire from which looks to run back to the panel was disconnected at the connection -- probably due to inadequate connection/soldering and a poor attempt at water proofing. My problem is that I don't see the wire from the panel in order to connect the switch too it. How do I trace that back to the panel?
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Probably connected directly to a fuse.
The bilge pump hot wire usually comes from a fuse on the electrical panel since you never really want to inadvertently turn it off. So, dont look for a second switch, look for a fuse. The usual wiring is from: Fuse to float switch input, manual switch/Bilge pump to float switch output.
The bilge pump hot wire usually comes from a fuse on the electrical panel since you never really want to inadvertently turn it off. So, dont look for a second switch, look for a fuse. The usual wiring is from: Fuse to float switch input, manual switch/Bilge pump to float switch output.
oops float switch is backward
The picture shows the float causing the pump to come on as the bilge empties. This is of course backward but you get the idea.
The picture shows the float causing the pump to come on as the bilge empties. This is of course backward but you get the idea.
follow up
Bill and Guy: I'm sorry I wasn't more clear. You both are right as to the design. The system on the 29.5 has a switch which in normal mode is on auto. You can flip the switch up for manual. The bilge pump works in manual mode; it does not work in automatic mode. The Sure Bail float alarm has two wires. When replacing it, I discovered that the wire to the power source was not connected to anything (being the genius that I am, I figured this is why it was not working). I did find what I am assuming to be either a buss or a fuse, not sure which, laying inside the conduit in the bilge, but it was water logged and corroded and not attached to anything, either upstream or down stream. I looked inside the conduit as far as I could and I did not see any wire coming from the switch to which I would connect a fuse and then to which I could connect the Sure Bail Alarm.
Bill and Guy: I'm sorry I wasn't more clear. You both are right as to the design. The system on the 29.5 has a switch which in normal mode is on auto. You can flip the switch up for manual. The bilge pump works in manual mode; it does not work in automatic mode. The Sure Bail float alarm has two wires. When replacing it, I discovered that the wire to the power source was not connected to anything (being the genius that I am, I figured this is why it was not working). I did find what I am assuming to be either a buss or a fuse, not sure which, laying inside the conduit in the bilge, but it was water logged and corroded and not attached to anything, either upstream or down stream. I looked inside the conduit as far as I could and I did not see any wire coming from the switch to which I would connect a fuse and then to which I could connect the Sure Bail Alarm.
Well, now I am more confused.
Was it a float switch or was it an alarm cause you used alarm twice in your description and you also used switch or are you talking about two seperate things? You should have 3 wires going into the bilge - hot, switched hot, and ground. Indicator Alarms or lights, switches and fuses all should be at the control panel or somewhere else. If you only have two wires going to the bilge, you will need to use one of the wires as a messenger and pull two wires with it. One to replace the pulled wire and one for your new wire.
Was it a float switch or was it an alarm cause you used alarm twice in your description and you also used switch or are you talking about two seperate things? You should have 3 wires going into the bilge - hot, switched hot, and ground. Indicator Alarms or lights, switches and fuses all should be at the control panel or somewhere else. If you only have two wires going to the bilge, you will need to use one of the wires as a messenger and pull two wires with it. One to replace the pulled wire and one for your new wire.
float switch
The package called it a float switch alarm, but it is a float switch that operates the automatic bilge. Bill Roos' diagram depicts the set up I have. I am guessing what I need to do is pull the panel and run a wire from the switch down to the bilge and install a fuse so I have something to connect to the float switch to. It is that wire that must have rotted out because I cannot find it. The float switch only has two wires, one to run to the power source through the switch and the other which runs to the pump.
The package called it a float switch alarm, but it is a float switch that operates the automatic bilge. Bill Roos' diagram depicts the set up I have. I am guessing what I need to do is pull the panel and run a wire from the switch down to the bilge and install a fuse so I have something to connect to the float switch to. It is that wire that must have rotted out because I cannot find it. The float switch only has two wires, one to run to the power source through the switch and the other which runs to the pump.
- Status