Air conditioning maintenance.....

[NYSail]

So I am new to the boat a/c phenomena.... have two units that function off a single pump. Units both work well but just want to know what people do each season to keep them working. I vacuum the unit / clean filter but wonder above the water loop. Should this be flushed vigorously to get all salt deposits etc out? Should pump be dissembled and cleaned periodically?

Thanks!

Greg

 

[Rick486]

Hi Greg:
I have pretty much the same setup. I clean the filters and the air passage screens. I also have an A/C service guy in every 2 years to check the units over, clean the coils, and check the refrigerant. Never had any problems in 11 years. They are pretty trouble free.
Rick

 

[Gunni]

• In the fall - remove the strainer and remove, close thru-hull valve, remove raw water hose connect to winterization bucket, flush the system with freshwater.
• Vac out the condensate pan, remove /clean the condensate strainer, inspect/replace the condensate hose. Clean the condensate Venturi.
• Blow out the seawater loop with inflatable boat air pump.
• Suck AF through the loop.
• Reconnect raw water hose to closed thru hull.
• After haul, open thru hull and allow AF to to drain.

 

[Terry Cox]

We have the two original 1991 MarineAir reverse cycle heat pumps on our boat. Other than topping off refrigerant once two years ago for the aft cabin unit, both remain reliable operators. Seldom use them except when at the dock with shore power during the winter months. No seasonal maintenance here, but do check and clean the sea water strainer maybe once every, or other season.

 

[capta]

I think one of the things that a lot of people forget until it causes the need to call in a professional, is it that shell and can build up in the cooling water circulation lines, especially in warmer waters.
I began by making a loop in my water circulation lines; both ends into a bucket, and flushing the lines with a muriatic acid solution, which worked fine but was very dangerous to work with. Then a friend suggested MARYKATE On and Off Hull/Bottom Cleaner instead, as it was a lot less dangerous and worked just as well.
In a place like Charleston, SC this was a monthly job if one used their A/C full time all summer. Farther north I don't know.

 

[JamesG161]

is it that shell and can build up in the cooling water circulation lines, especially in warmer waters.

It depends on the maker of your AC unit. Mine is made by Dometic. The "shell" side can be fouled and restrict the sea water cooling and heating, if yours is a reverse cycle type.

I now add 1 inch chorine spa tabs to my water strainer [ from time to time]. Dometic uses the same Copper/Nickel Shell as Swimming pool and spa heaters use. This keeps slime and barnacles from growing.
Jim...

 

[capta]

It depends on the maker of your AC unit. Mine is made by Dometic. The "shell" side can be fouled and restrict the sea water cooling and heating, if yours is a reverse cycle type.

I now add 1 inch chorine spa tabs to my water strainer [ from time to time]. Dometic uses the same Copper/Nickel Shell as Swimming pool and spa heaters use. This keeps slime and barnacles from growing.
Jim...

I'm not sure what the reverse cycle has to do with this, but if it has cooling water the shell will grow in the lines if it is used a lot, at least in Charleston and south.
I also tried the swimming pool chlorine tabs but they did not last very long and I wasn't comfortable pumping chlorine into the water on a 24/7 basis.

 

[JamesG161]

I'm not sure what the reverse cycle

Only the direction of your refrigerate flow. The refrigerant flow "Hot Side Input" normally stays clean and that changes positions on the Heating cycle.

I also tried the swimming pool chlorine tabs but they did not last very long

I agree. I use them when I clean my strainer, from time to time. Chlorine exposure does its job in just a few hours.
I have not used more than 0.25 lbs of tabs in a year.

BTW most of our drinking water has Chlorine and at a level not toxic to fish.

Jim...