After five years, my 9.2A is out of the water. Now what?

Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
Despite being in salt water (the lower James River in southeast Virginia) for five years, my bottom paint has only recently quit. My pal Teddy and I sailed her over to Dandy Haven Marina in Hampton where she's just been hauled. The bottom looked surprisingly good. The marina's owner, Scot, says a light sanding and she'll be ready for new paint. I have a huge laundry list of other projects I need to address while she's on the hard, including bottom and topsides paint, some gel coat repairs, replacing the standing rigging, painting the mast, and a whole host of other things I'll be on here asking for help with. If you think of anything that would typically be addressed in this situation that I haven't mentioned, please let me know. One big concern relates to the prop shaft and it's various bits. The stuffing box needs, at the least, repacking. I'm putting on a new Flex-o-fold folding prop and one of those crap pot line cutters. I noticed recently that, when the boat was sailing fast enough for the prop shaft to turn (engine off and transmission in neutral), the rotation of the shaft caused the engine (the usual 2GM20F) to rock in its mounts. I assume this means that their is an alignment issue I need to address. I was told by the surveyor when I bought the boat five years ago that the mounts, while serviceable, were not Yanmar mounts. I'm tempted to put new Yanmar mounts in while working on the alignment. Any tips on where to source those? Is the cutless bearing something I should be able to replace myself? Any tips on checking alignment?
 
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Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
People have mentioned these "plan" things to me before, but I've never gotten my head quite around the concept! I think I will start with the mast, get that struck so I can get the standing rigging measured and ordered. Then I probably should tackle inside-the-boat issues (mainly the engine mounts and shaft-related issues) before it gets too hot. The gelcoat and paint work will wait until some of the other projects are done. Time to fire up Excel and get the list started. Of course, hearing from you reminds me I still need to do my fixed port lights!

Any tips folks have on the prop shaft alignment and bearing removal/install would be appreciated. Marine Diesel Direct seems to be pretty decent on the motor mount pricing.

John the Overwhelmed
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Sounds like you're going haul out for bottom paint. Make a list of everything you want to do and divide it down to "on the hard tasks" and "floating" tasks. No need to spend money for yard days when you're working on "floating" tasks unless they have to integrate together. Wondering why topside paint? gelcoat can be done in water. When you get your shaft and mount issues resolved, the shaft alignment should be done in water as the boat will assume a different shape...
 
Sep 8, 2014
2,551
Catalina 22 Swing Keel San Diego
I was also wondering about the 'top side' paint? If you have gelcoat, why not repair/refurbish it? I'm painting my 30 year old boat and trust me on this, had I done a little more planning I would have chosen a fresh application of gelcoat over paint at least for the cabin/cockpit/decks... The 'topsides' of the hull above the waterline I did paint and it came out ok.
Doing some wet sanding and compounding of the gelcoat is actually much less work than repainting and I think the results are more durable. When you make a mistake (like a run, drip, or bug) it can be easily fixed by wet sanding and compounding.
For the bottom... check for any evidence of blisters. You may in fact just need to prep-sand and apply new bottom paint, but if certain conditions exist you want to consider a fresh barrier coat (epoxy based primer) before you put on fresh bottom paint. Since you have so much other work going on I would consider having your bottom media blasted rather than sanding. This will give the bottom time to dry out while you work on other things, (the bottom only needs to 'dry out' if there is evidence of water absorption into the laminate).
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,039
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
I hate to add to your list but you asked about what jobs go with a haul. I would add inspection of thru-hulls. If any are in need of replacement the haul out is the time to do that. Also checking around the keel sump/keel joint for signs of leaks or fairing that needs repair. And, sorry, but if you are going to remove the prop you should consider the rudder bearings because for a lot of boats you may need to drop the rudder to get the shaft out. And, while the rudder is out you might want to check it for water saturation. If it's been in the water for five years there is likely water intrusion.
With regard to the cutlass bearing there have been many posts about that. MaineSail probably still has his video demonstration on his website which is accessible from his forum on this site. That goes for the re-packing the stuffing box, putting on a prop and other subjects. You really should study those.
As for your mast painting, I've done that with Interlux products and was very happy with the results. Follow the instructions as closely as possible. Others have used other products. You should get plenty of advice. You have to decide how professional the result needs to be for you to be happy. Spray or roll - depends on your skills.
 
Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
Thanks, everyone! I'll do some searching for MaineSail's relevant posts, as well as others. The rudder seems very solid and shows no signs of water intrusion, but I'll rap it with a screwdriver handle more thoroughly to be sure. Its bearing assembly's exterior is pretty crusty, so dropping the rudder and thoroughly rehabbing its bearing and seal is good advice. Not much fun getting back there, but I need to address a slow leak on the water heater in that area anyway.

I wasn't aware that the shaft alignment should be done in the water, so thanks for that.

I'm happy if my results are functional, safe, and presentable. I'd rather be on the water than spending tons of time on cosmetics.

The mast is, I believe, painted rather than anodized black. The paint has rubbed down to the aluminum in many areas. Would it be heretical to just sand off the remaining black paint and leave an unpainted aluminum finish?

The bottom shows no signs of blisters. I don't think it had more than two coats of old paint, as it's down to the fiberglass where the lift's straps rubbed against it, so I don't think I need media blasting. It's not particularly smooth, though. I may post some close-up shots to get opinions of whether I should put a lot of effort into smoothing it.

Painting the topsides is, truth be told, something that goes against the above "functional" leanings and is more to pretty her up a bit. The boat is more beige than white and looks sort of dated, I think. A dark blue or red topsides would make the beige decks and cabin trunk look better and me happier; however, I'll try to do a neat job of the gel coat work, run the buffer a bit, and see how the existing finish polishes up first.

Thanks again for the input. My to-do list in Excel currently has 45 entries!

John
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
It doesn't sound you'll be sailing this season :(
Good luck. Without a plan, like your sig says, you will easily become overwhelmed !
 
Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
I hope to get in some sailing this season, but probably not on MY boat! I managed to get her out fourteen times since 1 January (it helps to be retired), so I shouldn't complain. I did find the MaineSail postings about the cutless bearing. Off to see how easily those allen screws on the strut budge.

John
 
Jul 8, 2014
35
Catalina C400 Oriental NC
Hey Bugbitten -

We just bought our 9.2A "Passagio" in Newport News in January, had it hauled out at Deep Creek for sanding/painting.
Pulled the stick while we were at it.

Besides all the good advice above, change all the zincs. Check the pin on the prop, some PO had used a wood screw! on ours and it nicely corroded the shaft for us. I now have a shiny new prop shaft, so at least a time basis for the log.

While we had the mast down, we were surprised at the wear at the top plate / sheaves from the wire halyards. Somehow the lines had gotten out of line and slowly "sawed" the plate/guide at the top. I vote you keep it signature black instead of sanding. Added LED anchor and steaming lights, too.

Have fun with that spreadsheet!
 
Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
Sorry we didn't get together as you came down the James. I bought Karma in Cambridge, MD, sailed it down with an old salt I knew from Deal Island. The brand new, West Marine sourced jib halyard parted, so I parked her at Scotts Cove in Deal Island for four months. They pulled the mast there, and my old salt ran new, all-rope halyards, which, of course, don't work well with the wire sheaves. New sheaves are likely during this haul out.

I did put a Hella tricolor LED unit up there, but I think I'm going to replace it with a simpler steaming/anchor unit, since I still have the bow nav lights. I'm pretty sure all the incandescents have been replaced. When putting the mast back up, Scotts managed to knock off my Garmin wind speed unit, so that'll get fixed now, too.

Today was very pleasant, so I put in a few hours. Got the cotter pin and nuts off the prop. Have a friend who'll lend me a puller. I got the old Standard Horizon speed log sender out, which was more of a bear than I expected. I've got a nice, Airmar electronic one (no paddle wheel!) to replace it that will tie into the NMEA backbone. Or at least it's supposed to talk to the Raymarine MFD via some conversion box. I'm not sure NMEA is involved.

I did get - a bit prematurely I suppose - the allen screws out of the prop shaft strut. I probably should put those back in until the shaft is out. I've got penetrant on the two bolts that I assume keep the shaft attached to the engine. I'll work on those and the shaft seal tomorrow.

Also on the agenda tomorrow is working on the water lift muffler. It would seem the boat had a smaller engine at some point, one that took a 1 1/2" exhaust hose, as that's what is on the muffler and from there to the back of the boat. The Yanmar 2GM20F specifies a 2" exhaust, which it has from the engine to the muffler, with a Mickey Moused extra hose on the muffler to bring the diameter up. I've got everything to make it all 2" straight back and hope to at least get all the old 1 1/2" bits out tomorrow. I'd better make sure I have that on the spreadsheet before I get it accomplished!

John
 
Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
Made some progress on getting the old lifting muffler out today. Also got the old speed log's thru hull out. Will have to drill a larger hole for the 2" exhaust thru hull (probably following Woody's example of going through the transom, rather than beneath it) and for the new speed log sender. Enlarging an existing hole is always interesting.

I was not able to budge to two bolts holding the prop shaft to the transmission flange. I soaked them in some more penetrant, but may have to (carefully) resort to some heat. I'm finding it increasingly difficult to turn the prop. Is that typical when the stuffing box starts drying out? Seems odd. It seemed slightly harder yesterday, but very difficult to turn today. Transmission is definitely in neutral. It's only been on the hard since Monday morning.

John
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
I'm finding it increasingly difficult to turn the prop. Is that typical when the stuffing box starts drying out? Seems odd. It seemed slightly harder yesterday, but very difficult to turn today. Transmission is definitely in neutral. It's only been on the hard since Monday morning.
that could be from the way it's blocked on the hard......make sure when you move the exhaust hole you glass the old hole up very well ...i also raised my cockpit drains above the water line and glassed up the old holes
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
for the new speed log sender. Enlarging an existing hole is always interesting.
i think the old hole is 1 3/4 inch if so take the new 2 inch hole saw and add an 1 3/4 saw inside the 2 inch one and you will have the guide to drill the new hole
 
Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
Today's report: Not a ton done today. I did get the stuffing box nut on the prop shaft to loosen. Did some work on the water heater. Still could not get the prop shaft retaining bolts to loosen, nor did the prop budge from its shaft. I was looking at the stuffing box section of Don Casey's sailboat maintenance book. On the opposite page, he talks about engine alignment and mentions that oftentimes, when a boat's gas engine is replaced with a diesel, the bearers are not updated and are too short. My boat is supposed to be a 1980 model and I thought diesels were standard that year, but there's evidence the engine's been replaced (there's an unused electric fuel pump, for one thing, and the mis-sized exhaust plumbing, for another). Also, there are two big, flexible ducts leading to vents on the center of the stern, above the traveler. You'd think they might well be for a bilge blower. My engine bearers do look a bit short, but what do I know? The engine mounts are not Yanmar. The tranny is one usually attached to the 3 cylinder engine. Looks like another can o' worms, eh? I guess I've put a couple hundred hours on it since purchase. It's definitely smoother at some speeds than others, but that varies enough that I believe it's more to do with stuff on the prop than how it's installed. I sure hope I don't spend $600 on new mounts only to discover I can't get the engine any smoother or better aligned than it is now.

John
 
Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
It's the 2GM20F. I think the year of manufacture is a couple of years after the boat's.
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
check to make sure the new mounts are not to tall or you will open up a can of worms ...i used the yanny mounts on mine and had to rework the bed rails along with re setting the shaft tube that goes through the hull ...so go very slow and cautious with the changing of the mounts do lots of measuring and checking and remeasuring before you do any physical work on the change
 
Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
The bed rails I might be able to handle, but resetting the shaft tube? Lordy! I guess the big thing is to get the shaft flange separated from the transmission's, so I can see how alignment is now. But then again, I'm supposed to do that in the water! I guess I'll get everything loosened up so that, once she's back afloat, it won't be a nightmare separating things. What engine did yours have originally, and did your 9.2 have those (I assume) venting flexible ducts to the stern?