Adding cleats behind Jenny winches

[Clydo]

Anyone installed cleats behind Jenny winches? I added one behind Port side but
after measuring from different directions drilled hole behind stb winch but failed
to penetrate into stern berth area. Used about five inch drill but guess need
longer one. Next time up at boat will get wire to measure depth. In addition
will call factory.

Clyde Thorington
C310 # 245
ILEAN TOO
San Jose, CA

 

[Joe]

If the drill doesn't go through....use a machine screw, 2 or 3 inches is more than enough to hold. If you're mounting the cleats on risers...to get a better lead to the cleat.. you can still get away with the machine screw.. as long as the riser height is reasonable... say less than 2 inches.

 

[All U Get]

Oh oh, you don't want that hole coming out the bottom of the boat, that would be bad. Could you see the bolts holding the starboard winch from below? Sometimes I get a little anxious because you have to mentally flip the measurement in your mind from above to below. In our old C-30 I had to squeeze into the rear lazerette to add backing to the rear cleats. I got jammed in and my wife couldn't pull me out. Very uncomfortable once an arm goes numb. Did the drill bit go through the decking and you just can't see where? I taped our iPhone to a boat hook and held it in some tight places while using video just to see better. Good luck with the mounting.

All U Get

 

[Stu Jackson]

Why would you do that on a boat with self tailing winches?

 

[Joe]

Why would you do that on a boat with self tailing winches?

It's generally faster, especially when single handing, to hand strip in the slack when tacking. You only need a couple of wraps on the drum... snapping the sheet down in the cleat while still at the helm. When the boat settles down on the new tack, you can flip on the AP, load up the winch drum with more wraps and make your trim adjustments... cleating normally after that.

Works the same way on a gybe. just a couple wraps on both drums is all you need (larger boats, maybe not) because you don't need the power of the winch...

When I added ST winches I though I wouldn't need the cleats... glad I didn't remove them though... gives me more options... best of both worlds, so to speak.

 

[valcour]

The winch mounting screws are drilled and tapped into a plate glassed into in the deck. The area behind the winches is not accessable from inside the aft cabin due the liner, and there are several inches of space between the interior liner and the hull, and your hole will be outboard of the escape hatch. You will need to look forward from the aft lazarette to see where your drill bit came though. This will be a hard to reach location unless you drilled quite a ways behind the winch. Here is the top and bottom view if you look to the right on the bottom view you will see the bolts that hold the forward tube of the stern pulpit as a point of reference, and the interior liner that is blocking your view from inside. You might have climb into the lazarette to reach the hole you drilled to install the backing/nuts.

 

[Clydo]

It's generally faster, especially when single handing, to hand strip in the slack when tacking. You only need a couple of wraps on the drum... snapping the sheet down in the cleat while still at the helm. When the boat settles down on the new tack, you can flip on the AP, load up the winch drum with more wraps and make your trim adjustments... cleating normally after that.

Works the same way on a gybe. just a couple wraps on both drums is all you need (larger boats, maybe not) because you don't need the power of the winch...

When I added ST winches I though I wouldn't need the cleats... glad I didn't remove them though... gives me more options... best of both worlds, so to speak.

Great pictures. Hugh help. Thanks very much.

Clyde Thorington
C310 # 245
I LEAN TOO
San Jose, CA