A18086 ST4000+ Drive motor replacement

[jonelli]

In case you guys need other parts, I've found this site has some important replacement parts (i.e. the ones that break!). I found the clutch pieces here and they even sell the ring in each half separately if you need that. I replaced a clutch piece a while back:
https://www.waveinn.com/nautical-fishing/raymarine-clutch-kit/1308691/p

 

[Skipper]

I just replaced with new belt and proper adjustment and now auto works like new and so much quieter and the engage lever stays engaged and when hen sailing heavy with ind works great.
For me a new belt made big improvement

Mine has an electric-motor noise. Like a drill set to slow speed. I guess it would be the internal gears. Noise since new.

 

[jonelli]

The gear showed up today. Looks good. It's the right size and matches the original.
Again, here is the info:
48DP (Diametric Pitch) 18T (18 teeth) with 3.175 diameter shaft.
I bought a whole set of different sizes that included the 18T gear on Amazon only because it was available with Prime shipping and this particular one said "durable metal" and all the others looked like anodized aluminum.
Below is the old motor and the original gear I could not remove and the new one I just received:

Yep, it's not aluminum. I think that's good.

Exact match:

The gear depth dimension is not quite as long as the original motor, but there's more under-shaft for the set screw. I don't think it will be a problem. There's enough surface area and it's not a huge difference:

I'm also not worried about that little bit of extra motor shaft that sticks out. If you look inside the gear housing, there's a perfectly aligned hole with plenty of room for it to slide in and live comfortably in there.

Don't forget to transfer the capacitors from the old one to the new one, or just solder new ones on. I bought some new ones, but found it easier to just unsolder and move the old ones since they were already the right length and had jackets on their leads. Easy peasy. Also, don't forget to move the alignment stopper screw from the gear side of the old motor to the new one. Didn't take a photo, but it's in the original article I referenced.

Looks like it fits to me! Just tested it with direct 12 volts first to see if everything works, success!
Now to loctite/superglue the gear and set screw in place. Loctite comes in various levels of bonding. Red is permanent, like superglue, blue and other colors are breakable to be able to remove the part later. I'm going to just use some superglue gel because it's what I have, squirt it into the set screw hole, spin the gear, then insert the set screw. Just don't get any on the allen tool...lol that was fun....

Make sure you put it all back together properly, with all the gaskets in the right places...
Here's a link to the manual with a nice exploded view of all the parts if you need it:
http://www.ganssle.com/jack/st4000.pdf

Voila! So, the motor was $5+shipping (unfortunately, more than motor!)
The gear was $14 because I was impatient, otherwise should cost about $7.
And that's it. A little soldering, some superglue, and I replaced the motor that would otherwise cost $75+$15 shipping from everywhere I found online.

Now for a sea trial! Unfortunately, that might be a little while. I'm waiting for a new Edson leather kit to re-cover my wheel, and then I've got some work travel. Maybe in a week I can test it on the boat.

 

[jonelli]

I thought I'd update where I'm at... I've been out of town a lot so I haven't had too much time for testing.
I was a little worried when I tried out the AutoPirate immediately after replacing the motor and it not working very well. I also had issues with the head unit beeping for a long time and knew I'd have to do do something eventually, so I broke down and just sent the head unit to ebay user "kodiakjack99" for a flat rate $175 repair/refurb. He confirmed it would not drive the motor when he got it, and I just got it back last week.
I just re-installed it yesterday and wham-O! It works GREAT. I haven't taken the boat out still, but it drives the wheel now like nobody's business. I verified my Catalina "cocktail" settings. I'll take it out this week and see how good it is. But I'm happy now, new motor and good head unit!

 

[Gene S]

48 tpi is or was a common pitch with RC cars. I would keep looking at hobby shops. The motor looks like an RC car motor too.

 

[jssailem]

It looks great.

Have you found a rubber boot to fit over the wire connection to the motor. I was surprised how thin the RayMarine boot was. It has already shredded after 2 years of service.

 

[Mark Maulden]

Mine rotted out first season although it’s “still there”. I might slide it up the connector and wrap with butyl tape to form a new boot.

 

[jonelli]

@jssailem - No, mine is still intact. But, do you mean this one?
https://www.waveinn.com/nautical-fishing/raymarine-pillot-plug/578646/p

 

[jonelli]

The "Catalina Cocktail" Settings (these REALLY WORK!):

Rudder Gain to 2
Drive Type to 2
Response to 2
AutoTrim to 2

Here are links to spare parts:
Drive motor (RS-555SH) $5
https://www.parts-express.com/mabuchi-type-motor-rs-555sh-12v-dc-motor-(9-15v)-57mm-x-36mm--125-566

Gear set ($14): (It has all difference sizes, you only need 48P 18T, but this set was non-aluminum)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D5FNCS7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Replacement Clutches A18084 ($30): (these break!)
https://www.waveinn.com/nautical-fishing/raymarine-clutch-kit/1308691/p

Grey wheel half Front A18074 ($40):
https://www.waveinn.com/nautical-fishing/raymarine-st4000-mkii/578672/p

Grey wheel half Back A18075 ($108):
https://www.waveinn.com/nautical-fishing/raymarine-st4000-mkii/1308640/p

Credit to this guy for steering me to this solution:
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/12/replacing-burnt-out-wheel-autopilot.html?m=1

Belt replacement: A18083, St4000 Mk2 875mm.Raymarine SmartPilot X-5 (SPX-5) (in case the link goes dead)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195GYQRM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3CTXN6CQ7KSID&psc=1

eBay guy that rebuilds the head units:
Kodiakjack99
https://www.ebay.com/usr/kodiakjack99

 

[jssailem]

Yes that looks like the part. I tried to watch the video in the link. But it was in Italian and all I could think about was the Godfather and how if I was not careful I might be swimming with the fishes.

Thanks for all of the links. My sense is that I will be servicing this part before too long. If I get 5 years I'll consider it lucky.

 

[ChrisdCB]

Another option is to replace the wheel pilot with a Linear 1. Whenever I really needed the wheel pilot to help, it was simply not up to the job... A two lever tiller from Jefa and a suitably crafted block of wood to mount the Linear 1 in my Legend 36 and then a quick reconfiguration of the ST4000 to upgrade it to an ST5000 and the job was done.
The steering is now rock solid.

 

[jonelli]

My new rebuild works great now. Have done several trips with it. works great under high RPM motor as well as sail. A bit more trouble with following seas, but could be an adjustment thing. I'm super happy.

 

[jmce1587]

I posted this earlier today on a similar post re: EV 100 on a H34.

+1 on "I feel the plastic nature of the wheel unit will eventually be the part that gives up the ghost. I have experienced the lever popping open. Solved by pensioning the screw on the lever. It likes the Alice touch. Not too tight not too loose."

for my H31 - This is the 2nd time in four years with this unit that I had to have the drive unit repaired due to broken plastic part (see pic below). 1st time under warranty and second on me. Only good thing is you can purchase the rear cover (part with broken plastic screw receptacle) for $100 and about an hours time transferring internals from old unit to the new cover (chasing bearings around took a while). only other option would be to purchase a new drive unit for $625. Also had to purchase a new tension lever to get the tension "just right". old one (plastic of course) was not keeping tension.

I would also suggest purchasing and keeping on-board a replacement belt similar to what you would do for your engine.

also here is a link to a You Tube Video on a drive unit clutch tensioner replacement. there are several you tube videos on these units that show the internals of the drive unit.

 

[jssailem]

Since the screw receptacle is the week point (at least that is what I have heard from several owners) It would seem that someone could come up with a reinforced hack for the plastic pieces that break. Where yours broke appears to be a common problem. I think it is where the force of the belt tensioner is applied. A metal plate on the outside with thru bolts might be an answer. I will have to investigate further.

 

[jonelli]

The rear half of the wheel was okay on mine. I had broken alignment studs on the front half. I just drilled small holes and used tiny stainless machine screws to act like new studs, works fine now. I have found when my lever didn't work well, the problem was the clutch piece inside was broken. After replacing that, the lever worked fine.
It's just like anything really... if everything is as intended by design, it functions just fine.

 

[jviss]

This wheel drive goes all the way back to Autohelm, before they were acquired by Raytheon, which was later spun out as Raymarine. I had one in service for several years, and when it worked, it worked, but it often was fussy. I had a loop of string to keep the lever closed when in AP mode. I reinforced the little wheel posts inside with screws and nuts. I replaced the head's output transistors once.

I came to think of this unit, this system, as typical English, hobbyist-grade, rinky-dink junk. It's fine for "fun cruising" in fine weather, light-to-medium air, small seas. But in a blow, or with 4' seas, it's useless. Just when you need it!

It's a shame there's no good wheel drive unit. I know about the CPT system, but to me it is reminiscent of the Seagull outboard, with all the moving parts on the outside. Not very "yacht like," shippy.

I think Edson missed a big opportunity, not having an AP option for their pedestal steering systems.

I strongly encourage anyone contemplating an AP for a sailboat to seriously consider a below-decks installation. I know it's a lot more money, but it's worlds apart, in utility, safety, and reliability. Plus, it's an alternate means to steer should your cable steering system fail. (It happens!)

 

[sdennisf]

Many thanks. Really appreciate the info. I decided to purchase a replacement motor on E Bay for $100. Do you belong to the catalina30.com group? You should check it out; a great resource.
Denny Fegan

 

[jonelli]

I just checked, and the motor is still available for $6. It just needs the right gear to work. I didn't have to cut anything, just moved the capacitors over which are probably just to keep electronic noise contamination down.
Maybe I should pre-assemble some and sell them for $50? lol