86 H23 Interior

[drewsyntax]

Hi All
3 months til and went to the boat today (before the snow) to clean the interior all out to have the interior stripped, sanded, and painted.

32yos and the plywood looks quite fresh in the vberth. All the cushions are now off to be reupolestered too. Sunbrella ocean blue inside and pacific blue new boom, bimini and til covers being made .

Posting the befores to get some more h23 interior photos onto the forum including the soon to be replaced electric panel (putting a sea dog panel in with usb).

Any tips here would be greatly appreciated - should I rerun wires while Im at it ?

Still debating on spending all that loot for a new 4stroke 6hp motor. May hold out to see if the 2stroke 9.9 has one more season left in her and clean the carb jets out as you guys recommend.
Thanks!

 

[Bill Roosa]

I'd certianly check the wires while they are exposed. Wire does not really wear out but the insulation does get brittle over time and the ends can get corroded. As long as the insulation is not starting to crack when you try and flex the wire you should be fine on that front.

 

[Will Gilmore]

with Bill.
Don't forget your goal, to sail.
Fix what needs to be fixed, change out what needs to be changed but don't get caught in a project that becomes so much fussiness that you lose out on why you have your boat in the first place.
If you love the work and having it just the way you want it, like I do, you may sacrifice some of the sailing time, but don't end up with a bunch of parts laying in your garage preventing you from enjoying that beautiful weekend when they could be on your boat being good enough for a great sail.
I'm the guy who can't go that day because I have everything apart and no time to put it back together.
Don't be me.

- Will (Dragonfly)

 

[Kermit]

Don't be me.
- Will (Dragonfly)

You sound like my mother. “Do as I say. Not as I do.”

 

[drewsyntax]

cheers will ! I hear you and good points.
Im having a restoration guy do it (interior paint and outside touch up) another place is doing the upolostry /cushions.

So they better finish in time or they’ll see the not so nice side of me!

Im doing the electrics & the little things myself and looking forward to it. Good point on the wiring Bill - thanks

Been purchasing parts all winter / collecting on sale - I wish I had time and space to do it all myself.

 

[drewsyntax]

BTW speaking of maximizing sail time
Anyone have thier H23 hooked up to single hand sail with the head and main hoist lines running back ?

I saw a mod in the history forum about running lines back to the cockpit - but nervous about sawing holes in the Mast.

 

[isaksp00]

You may want to do these posts in the small boats section, as more 23 owners may see it.
A lot of the wiring runs under the fur that lines the cabin - it is a PITA to remove this to get at it, so I'd not bother unless you have to. I'd think most issues would be at junctions, they'd be at the lights, the fitting for the mast wiring, etc. and not require stripping all the wire. The electrical panel that is stock (like in your photo) is kind of small, so replacing it is not a bad idea (I haven't bothered on mine).
Carefully look at both chain plate bulkheads - I can see what looks like water staining in one photo. That is probably leaking from under the chain plate cover and through the deck slot. I had one of these fail (it cracked under load) and I had to replace it, which is not a fun task, especially with the mast up. Make sure all 3 bolts are tight and see if you think it has any rotting. Make sure you properly seal the chain plate cover screw holes and slots - I drilled out the screw holes and filled with epoxy, and used butyl rubber to seal around the screws and the slot.
I have roller reefing so I can handle the jib from the cockpit. The PO also ran the main halyard to the cockpit. It exits the mast near the bottom (I assume through a stock opening that he did not add) to a vertical turning sheave on the deck that turns it to starboard then a horizontal turning sheave mounted on a wood support that turns it aft to the cockpit. Once the sail cover is off I can raise it from the cockpit. There is a winch on the cabin top, starboard side, near the handrails - he may have added that. The cleat is on the deck, near the toe rail.

 

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[drewsyntax]

thanks Isaks + Ill post that single hand comment into the smaller boat threads - Thanks for the tips

 

[drewsyntax]

Hi Isaks
“Make sure all 3 bolts are tight and see if you think it has any rotting. Make sure you properly seal the chain plate cover screw holes and slots - Idrilled out the screw holes and filledwith epoxy, and used butyl rubber toseal around the screws and the slot.”

Ill check this next weekend - but since we are stripping all the carpet/fur off that area under the mast (which does have discolaration) I was curious if you know the details/soecs of those bolt to be able to source/replace?

thanks drew

 

[drewsyntax]

Also did you put the roller reef jib sustem on your self?

best

 

[isaksp00]

These are not the bolts related to any area under the mast; I was referring to the 3 bolts that attach the chain plates to the "bookshelf support"-like bulkheads that have the chain plates attached to them. The bolts are visible and can be removed (if you need to) without taking off any liner material (though you will have to remove some if you want to inspect the lower sides of the wood bulkheads, that are probably OK). You can see one in your 4th photo, the one named "7EE3...", also the last photo. This is the thing that the side stays attach to (the part of the metal bar that extends up above the deck). It is not likely the bolts would need to be replaced - just see if the wood is rotted or splitting, and make sure the 3 bolts are tight.

I did not install the roller reefing, it came with the boat. I did do some repairs to it, that involved removing the foils from the forestay because of a broken foil connector, replacing the stay (twice so far) and installing a removable upper eye fitting. If you asked because you are wondering how hard it is to install one, I would say that if you are reasonably handy you could do it yourself - but they are not cheap. You could have the end fittings swaged by a rigger or use one of the types you can install without swaging.

 

[drewsyntax]

These are not the bolts related to any area under the mast; I was referring to the 3 bolts that attach the chain plates to the "bookshelf support"-like bulkheads that have the chain plates attached to them. The bolts are visible and can be removed (if you need to) without taking off any liner material (though you will have to remove some if you want to inspect the lower sides of the wood bulkheads, that are probably OK). You can see one in your 4th photo, the one named "7EE3...", also the last photo. This is the thing that the side stays attach to (the part of the metal bar that extends up above the deck). It is not likely the bolts would need to be replaced - just see if the wood is rotted or splitting, and make sure the 3 bolts are tight.

I did not install the roller reefing, it came with the boat. I did do some repairs to it, that involved removing the foils from the forestay because of a broken foil connector, replacing the stay (twice so far) and installing a removable upper eye fitting. If you asked because you are wondering how hard it is to install one, I would say that if you are reasonably handy you could do it yourself - but they are not cheap. You could have the end fittings swaged by a rigger or use one of the types you can install without swaging.

Thanks isaks! Great info and now I see what you mean on the 7EE photo.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

@isaksp00

If you need any help advising, just send me a private message and thank you for helping. Advise to check the shroud chain plate covers for any leakage. Advise posting on the Hunter small boat section. Now back to preparation of taxes and oh what fun it is.

crazy dave