73 Winch

[Sacto Dave]

After lubricating, the winch handle kept unscrewing after hitting what felt like a mechanical stop. The drum would rotate back and forth. It would make a click noise when turning in the direction of raising. As it began turn in the direction of lowering, it would stop, firmly, as though blocked. I suspect this spring loaded mechanism:

The supporting wood was making an unsettling crunching noise. I noticed cracks at both ends as well as those across the board that were pointed out earlier by pclarksurf as being an indication of compromise.

So I supported the keel with a jack and unscrewed the two nuts holding the winch in place. Then lowered the keel to the trailer support.

The top of the winch shows it got wet:

Isn't that cable a mess?
Now I can see the keel attachment hardware for the first time since I bought the boat in January of 2016.

Now to review threads on replacing that board.
Thank you all for sharing your knowledge.

 

[pclarksurf]

@Sacto Dave -- that's exactly what I had under the winch! You can see in your detail the "crack" or outline of where that plywood sandwich sits. Grab a wood chisel and she'll be out in no time-- leaving the footprint in tact so you can work up a replacement of your choice. And despite the apparent goofiness of burying my Keel winch bolts into the threshold under the epoxy-- they certainly can't leak anymore

p.s: keel looks pretty good on a tight shot, should be very restoreable should you go down that road.

 

[Sacto Dave]

p.s: keel looks pretty good on a tight shot, should be very restoreable should you go down that road.

Thank you! Here are some pics:

The boat is still sittin a bit low on the trailer. I had to make some space to get some leverage to apply more force to pull the pin:

 

[little breeze]

Anyone know what type of wood should be used for replacement?

 

[Sacto Dave]

My friend at work says white oak or marine grade plywood.

 

[pclarksurf]

I got my hands on an inexpensive short of maple-- hard and solid-- ply will work, whatever you use coat with epoxy

 

[little breeze]

thank you for the pics and advice very helpful.my wood does not look as bad but its a 82 and Im changing the winch so I might as well.

 

[pclarksurf]

@Sacto Dave -- dang brother, that keel looks pretty solid. Would definitely go the full refurb route when you have time and resources, but she looks like a pretty "easy" remodel relative to the dumpster fire versions that have been successfully remediated.

Your keel also looks pretty good relative to the bump pad-- I hated mine as the PO had crushed it with the keel itself so I was happy yesterday to have replaced it with a proper Stoltz Roller. It was a challenge to get the clearance off the cross bar without eating up all the free space to the retracted keel-- fairly common with the factory trailer.

 

[Sacto Dave]

I like what you've done @pclarksurf! That keel...wow! Love the roller, too! I'm hoping to get started on the winch support then install the new winch - which I bought from CD. I so appreciate having a supplier for this boat, right here in the Sacramento area...gotta support such a business or be abandoned to my own resources. Couldn't believe they had the original bow light!

 

[little breeze]

Forgot to mention good luck on your project later after I finish painting the bottom I will post pics

 

[Sacto Dave]

Well, I chose a different path. Since my plywood wasn't entirely rotten, my attempts to check strength of the wood by stabbing with a screwdriver only dented it, I've over-drilled the holes to 1/2 inch diameter and taped the bottom of the plywood entirely. Then poured acetone thinnned epoxy into the holes, adding as it was absorbed. I pulled off the tape and sanded:

As you can see, the epoxy didn't penetrate to the ends. It is my intention to epoxy a piece of marine grade plywood that I've coated with epoxy, to the bottom of the existing plywood:

As I waited for the epoxy coating to cure, I re drilled the bolt holes through the existing wood to 5/8", applied tape to the bottom of the existing wood and poured in thinned epoxy again. Only the port hole seemed to absorb the thinned epoxy. While waiting for that process, I began to gain access to a known deck hardware leak - the starboard mid-ship stanchion. It was fastened with wood screws into the bulkhead:

I had to remove a speaker from the bulkhead, which was accomplished by simply grabbing it and pulling it off/through the bulkhead. I knew it was probably rotten where the wood screws funneled deck water into the top of the bulkhead as well as the base, where it appeared detached.

But was surprised to see a few things:
This hole drilled in the v-berth glass hidden by the bulkhead base:

And the liner (?) crack (visible on the top right above)

Plus the bulkhead almost seems shaved where it transitions near that cracked area:

 

[pclarksurf]

too funny @Sacto Dave : just finished repairing the liner cracks under my bulkheads-- our boats are all but twins. Attached some pics-- my cracks were actually bit worse all things considered. I too have the secret hole forward it's use is a bit obscure -- but something related to not very convenient access under the V-berth. And if you want guarenteed results with Penetrating epoxy: Smiths (also known as CPES) is the way to go. I've used it on everything from ply to teak, brightwork to backing plates. http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/