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40.5 Questions

Discussion in 'Ask A Hunter Owner' started by fero, Sep 16, 2018. Add this thread to a FAQ

  1. fero

    fero

    Joined Jan 15, 2010
    23 posts, 1 likes
    Hunter Legend 40.5
    CA Victoria
    Hi all again,
    couple of more questions:
    Port side water tank - it looks there is a leak somewhere, once the tank was empty when it was spposingly full ( when we bought her), we filled it but when trying to use it the pump would not pick-up, no easy way to check if the tank is full or empty I assume it leaked out. Any experience on this?
    Transom compartments - regularly now after relatively hard sail to wind there is about 3in of sea water on the bottom. Looking inside can’t see how it gets there.
    Lastly just point of interest can you tell whre the original battery/invertor was located. A new battery charger was installed couple of years ago but I am trying to figure the electrical wiring mess.
    Many thanks
     


  2. Rick D

    Rick D

    Joined Jun 14, 2008
    6,662 posts, 200 likes
    Hunter Legend 40.5
    US Long Beach, Shoreline Marina, CA
    (This was copied from a reply to a personal message. I hope this works by pasting here:) (P.S> photos didn't transfer. Will re-post them)

    So, the first thing was to determine where the seepage was originating under the refrigerator. I noticed the wood was rotting on the toe kick (the wood on the bottom) after 22 years. (The boat is in Southern California and the refrigerator and freezer is run 24/7.)

    I finally elected to cut some of the toe kick out. I found that the sprayed in foam was water saturated where it met the fiberglass pan (floor). I then proceeded to cut out the rest of the tow kick. To do so, it is VERY important to protect the cabinetry. What I did was to get a long piece of angle aluminum (about 1 1/2") and securely tape it to the front of the cabinetry. The I used a sawz-all with a long blade to cut near the top of the toe kick from near the juncture with the sink cabinet aft to the bulkhead forward of the stove.

    A complication in this is the drain hoses from the refrigerator and freezer will be cut in the process. They will be impossible to replace. Just do as good a job as possible removing them and fill the drain holes with latex caulk or expanding foam. No loss of utility unless you still use ice for cooling!

    Remove the wood. You will need a small hand saw for some corners. It is bonded to the foam, so it will require some tugging. Once you get it out, you need to remove as much foam as possible. I made an "L" piece of aluminum to use as well as a small crowbar. I also used a plant auger in a hand drill. Ultimately, it took a variety of tools to remove the foam. The good news is the foam was only wet between 1/2 and one inch up. The bad news is you will need a gardening pad to lay on and you will hurt and cramp up.

    Once that is done, you will want to tackle the area under the freezer. This is tough. There is a fiberglass bulkhead running just aft of the L between the refrigerator and the sink cabinet. Dig out as much as possible with what little space you have. Then, I cut (with a plunge saw) a piece of the cabinetry under the sink for an area about 5"X10" to get to the foam under the freezer. It was not as bad in my case as the refrigerator, but with this much work, I did not want to do it twice.

    After all that, I ventilated the areas with a small fan for about a week. I then got a battery filler squeeze bulb and got some copper wood preservative and saturated whatever wood areas I could get to. I did this over two days. (By the way, I should mention I removed all the flooring in these areas!) I then let it ventilate again for a week.

    Following all that, I got I think four cans of CRC minimal-expansion closed-cell foam cans. I also got some plastic hose to help get it all the way back. I proceeded carefully to fill up the space as well as I could. It is super messy, so wear something to throw out. I actually filled it all up, but it did continue to expand out over the next few days.

    When this step was done, I used (as I recall) a serrated bread knife to cut back the now hardened foam to approximate where the toe kick had been. Later, I cut some vinyl floor molding to fit and glued it to the foam with construction adhesive to give it a finished look.

    All of this was done about four to five years ago and it is holding up well, plus saving quite a bit on the run time of the refrigerator and freezer. I honestly do not know how else the repair could be done short of disassembling all the cabinetry. Since I found only the bottom portion of the foam was wet, I think that would have been excessive, although I did consider jobbing it out.

    One important note: not all spray foams are alike. Most certainly, I doubt the original foam was closed-cell. It is quite a bit more expensive, but is claimed to be water proof. Stick with the CRC and don't cut corners and make sure you have PLENTY when you start the job. Good luck! I'll post some photos.

    (By the way, this isn't just a Hunter or 40.5 thing; my neighbor has the same issue on a similar vintage Beneteau)

    https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Minimal-...=UTF8&qid=1548296390&sr=8-1&keywords=crc+foam

    https://www.amazon.com/Green-Produc...0001+copper+green+wood+preservative,+1-gallon
     

    Attached Files:



  3. kappykaplan

    kappykaplan

    Joined May 1, 2011
    909 posts, 163 likes
    Pearson 37
    US Lusby MD
    Looks good, Rick!
     


  4. Scott NIelsen

    Scott NIelsen

    Joined Sep 30, 2008
    58 posts, 4 likes
    Hunter 37.5
    US Norfolk
    I had a similar problem on my 37.5 with water in the transom compartment/lockers after a sail. It took me a while to find the culprit. It turned out to be the LP locker vent hose overboard fitting. The plastic barb the vent hose was clamped to had split. I replaced with a bronze one and problem solved. I then went through the rest of the boat and found most the through hull valves had plastic hose barbs. I replaced everyone of them with bronze ones. The LP Vent line was only submerged when I was on a starboard tack, vent line overboard is located low in port transom locker, and the flow of water was enough to seep through the cracked fitting and fill the transom lockers. I chased this issue for 4 years before I found it. Transom lockers have been bone dry ever since.
     


  5. fero

    fero

    Joined Jan 15, 2010
    23 posts, 1 likes
    Hunter Legend 40.5
    CA Victoria
    Thanks for the hint, will check.
    Anyone had pb with water tank leak?
    Thanks
     


  6. Rick D

    Rick D

    Joined Jun 14, 2008
    6,662 posts, 200 likes
    Hunter Legend 40.5
    US Long Beach, Shoreline Marina, CA
    Are you referring to the port belly tank?
     


  7. fero

    fero

    Joined Jan 15, 2010
    23 posts, 1 likes
    Hunter Legend 40.5
    CA Victoria
    Yes Rick, I am.
     


  8. fero

    fero

    Joined Jan 15, 2010
    23 posts, 1 likes
    Hunter Legend 40.5
    CA Victoria
    Hi Scott,

    I checked and it must be something different my through hull is bronze as well as elbow and barb, all intact. Will continue to search. Regards.
     


  9. fero

    fero

    Joined Jan 15, 2010
    23 posts, 1 likes
    Hunter Legend 40.5
    CA Victoria
    Hi all, yet another question, did anyone had to change gasket on freshwater belly tanks? I found same leaks after filling water tanks around the top of stb tank (didn’t get yet chance to look at at the port side tank) , it looks like gasket is tired.
    Here is picture before cleaning.
     

    Attached Files:



  10. Rick D

    Rick D

    Joined Jun 14, 2008
    6,662 posts, 200 likes
    Hunter Legend 40.5
    US Long Beach, Shoreline Marina, CA
    Are you sure it's the gasket? I pulled and rebedded all the screws and the inspection port after using a dry-erase maker to circle everything in order to determine where the leaks were originating. Wasn't from the gasket.
     


  11. smokey73

    smokey73

    Joined Oct 26, 2010
    679 posts, 144 likes
    Hunter 40.5
    US Beaufort, SC
    Agree with Rick. I had leaks from nearly all the screws holding the lid on the tank and a few from the screws holding on the gasket. I think since this tank is in the area where a lot of flexing occurs and the screws bedding just gives up the ghost. I didn't have the same problem on the port side but that is under the salon table so doesn't get much traffic.
     


  12. sailme88

    sailme88

    Joined Jan 19, 2010
    138 posts, 36 likes
    Catalina Catalina 34
    US Casco Bay
    If you are on either an extended or living aboard, a spare macerator pump would be a prudent investment. Isolate the pump with valve ( quarter turn or gate ). Use union joints. Aluminum foil baking pans can easily be cut down to fit under the valve and pump. You are most assuredly going to get some black water when you break the joint open ( a half cup or so). Catch it. sop up with t-paper and drop it in the head.
     


  13. fero

    fero

    Joined Jan 15, 2010
    23 posts, 1 likes
    Hunter Legend 40.5
    CA Victoria
    Thanks for comments, I tightened all screws before cleanning the area. The only wettness I could see was in the gap between lid and the body of the tank (sweating after sponging it dry). This with freshly filled tank with slight roll.