40.5 Questions

fero

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Jan 15, 2010
110
Hunter Legend 40.5 Victoria
Thanks Rich,
Our mirror should be smaller, easy access to screws. Tightened all yesterday,sqeeking stopped. Didn’t have to add oil yet. Thanks for the hint. Frank
 

fero

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Jan 15, 2010
110
Hunter Legend 40.5 Victoria
Hi all again,
couple of more questions:
Port side water tank - it looks there is a leak somewhere, once the tank was empty when it was spposingly full ( when we bought her), we filled it but when trying to use it the pump would not pick-up, no easy way to check if the tank is full or empty I assume it leaked out. Any experience on this?
Transom compartments - regularly now after relatively hard sail to wind there is about 3in of sea water on the bottom. Looking inside can’t see how it gets there.
Lastly just point of interest can you tell whre the original battery/invertor was located. A new battery charger was installed couple of years ago but I am trying to figure the electrical wiring mess.
Many thanks
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,132
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
(This was copied from a reply to a personal message. I hope this works by pasting here:) (P.S> photos didn't transfer. Will re-post them)

So, the first thing was to determine where the seepage was originating under the refrigerator. I noticed the wood was rotting on the toe kick (the wood on the bottom) after 22 years. (The boat is in Southern California and the refrigerator and freezer is run 24/7.)

I finally elected to cut some of the toe kick out. I found that the sprayed in foam was water saturated where it met the fiberglass pan (floor). I then proceeded to cut out the rest of the tow kick. To do so, it is VERY important to protect the cabinetry. What I did was to get a long piece of angle aluminum (about 1 1/2") and securely tape it to the front of the cabinetry. The I used a sawz-all with a long blade to cut near the top of the toe kick from near the juncture with the sink cabinet aft to the bulkhead forward of the stove.

A complication in this is the drain hoses from the refrigerator and freezer will be cut in the process. They will be impossible to replace. Just do as good a job as possible removing them and fill the drain holes with latex caulk or expanding foam. No loss of utility unless you still use ice for cooling!

Remove the wood. You will need a small hand saw for some corners. It is bonded to the foam, so it will require some tugging. Once you get it out, you need to remove as much foam as possible. I made an "L" piece of aluminum to use as well as a small crowbar. I also used a plant auger in a hand drill. Ultimately, it took a variety of tools to remove the foam. The good news is the foam was only wet between 1/2 and one inch up. The bad news is you will need a gardening pad to lay on and you will hurt and cramp up.

Once that is done, you will want to tackle the area under the freezer. This is tough. There is a fiberglass bulkhead running just aft of the L between the refrigerator and the sink cabinet. Dig out as much as possible with what little space you have. Then, I cut (with a plunge saw) a piece of the cabinetry under the sink for an area about 5"X10" to get to the foam under the freezer. It was not as bad in my case as the refrigerator, but with this much work, I did not want to do it twice.

After all that, I ventilated the areas with a small fan for about a week. I then got a battery filler squeeze bulb and got some copper wood preservative and saturated whatever wood areas I could get to. I did this over two days. (By the way, I should mention I removed all the flooring in these areas!) I then let it ventilate again for a week.

Following all that, I got I think four cans of CRC minimal-expansion closed-cell foam cans. I also got some plastic hose to help get it all the way back. I proceeded carefully to fill up the space as well as I could. It is super messy, so wear something to throw out. I actually filled it all up, but it did continue to expand out over the next few days.

When this step was done, I used (as I recall) a serrated bread knife to cut back the now hardened foam to approximate where the toe kick had been. Later, I cut some vinyl floor molding to fit and glued it to the foam with construction adhesive to give it a finished look.

All of this was done about four to five years ago and it is holding up well, plus saving quite a bit on the run time of the refrigerator and freezer. I honestly do not know how else the repair could be done short of disassembling all the cabinetry. Since I found only the bottom portion of the foam was wet, I think that would have been excessive, although I did consider jobbing it out.

One important note: not all spray foams are alike. Most certainly, I doubt the original foam was closed-cell. It is quite a bit more expensive, but is claimed to be water proof. Stick with the CRC and don't cut corners and make sure you have PLENTY when you start the job. Good luck! I'll post some photos.

(By the way, this isn't just a Hunter or 40.5 thing; my neighbor has the same issue on a similar vintage Beneteau)

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Minimal-...=UTF8&qid=1548296390&sr=8-1&keywords=crc+foam

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Produc...0001+copper+green+wood+preservative,+1-gallon
 

Attachments

Sep 30, 2008
88
Hunter 37.5 37.5 Norfolk
I had a similar problem on my 37.5 with water in the transom compartment/lockers after a sail. It took me a while to find the culprit. It turned out to be the LP locker vent hose overboard fitting. The plastic barb the vent hose was clamped to had split. I replaced with a bronze one and problem solved. I then went through the rest of the boat and found most the through hull valves had plastic hose barbs. I replaced everyone of them with bronze ones. The LP Vent line was only submerged when I was on a starboard tack, vent line overboard is located low in port transom locker, and the flow of water was enough to seep through the cracked fitting and fill the transom lockers. I chased this issue for 4 years before I found it. Transom lockers have been bone dry ever since.
 

fero

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Jan 15, 2010
110
Hunter Legend 40.5 Victoria
Thanks for the hint, will check.
Anyone had pb with water tank leak?
Thanks
 

fero

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Jan 15, 2010
110
Hunter Legend 40.5 Victoria
I had a similar problem on my 37.5 with water in the transom compartment/lockers after a sail. It took me a while to find the culprit. It turned out to be the LP locker vent hose overboard fitting. The plastic barb the vent hose was clamped to had split. I replaced with a bronze one and problem solved. I then went through the rest of the boat and found most the through hull valves had plastic hose barbs. I replaced everyone of them with bronze ones. The LP Vent line was only submerged when I was on a starboard tack, vent line overboard is located low in port transom locker, and the flow of water was enough to seep through the cracked fitting and fill the transom lockers. I chased this issue for 4 years before I found it. Transom lockers have been bone dry ever since.
Hi Scott,

I checked and it must be something different my through hull is bronze as well as elbow and barb, all intact. Will continue to search. Regards.
 

fero

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Jan 15, 2010
110
Hunter Legend 40.5 Victoria
Hi all, yet another question, did anyone had to change gasket on freshwater belly tanks? I found same leaks after filling water tanks around the top of stb tank (didn’t get yet chance to look at at the port side tank) , it looks like gasket is tired.
Here is picture before cleaning.
 

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Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,132
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Hi all, yet another question, did anyone had to change gasket on freshwater belly tanks? I found same leaks after filling water tanks around the top of stb tank (didn’t get yet chance to look at at the port side tank) , it looks like gasket is tired.
Here is picture before cleaning.
Are you sure it's the gasket? I pulled and rebedded all the screws and the inspection port after using a dry-erase maker to circle everything in order to determine where the leaks were originating. Wasn't from the gasket.
 
Oct 26, 2010
1,883
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
Agree with Rick. I had leaks from nearly all the screws holding the lid on the tank and a few from the screws holding on the gasket. I think since this tank is in the area where a lot of flexing occurs and the screws bedding just gives up the ghost. I didn't have the same problem on the port side but that is under the salon table so doesn't get much traffic.
 
Jan 19, 2010
1,169
Catalina 34 Casco Bay
Don, I see you point now and the failure of the mascaerator would cause a problem. I guess if I were in that situation I'd probably install the Y valve as an additional option but still keep the mascerator/pump capability so I discharge to the tank when in pristine clar waters nearby other boaters or swimers (not to mention me going in the water). That would seem to be the best of both worlds. Discharge directly overboard when its appropriate, discharge to the tank and pump overboard later when its not appropriate to discharge where you are.

I guess the key is to don't let your tank get full and carry a spare mascerator pump. Pump out small amounts as you use the head and then the tank only becomes a buffer to keep from discharging next to a swimmer OR your wife :oops: who just jumed in to cool off.
If you are on either an extended or living aboard, a spare macerator pump would be a prudent investment. Isolate the pump with valve ( quarter turn or gate ). Use union joints. Aluminum foil baking pans can easily be cut down to fit under the valve and pump. You are most assuredly going to get some black water when you break the joint open ( a half cup or so). Catch it. sop up with t-paper and drop it in the head.
 

fero

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Jan 15, 2010
110
Hunter Legend 40.5 Victoria
Thanks for comments, I tightened all screws before cleanning the area. The only wettness I could see was in the gap between lid and the body of the tank (sweating after sponging it dry). This with freshly filled tank with slight roll.
 

fero

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Jan 15, 2010
110
Hunter Legend 40.5 Victoria
Further to mu question about leak from the port side water tank, I lifted the sole panel (not easy as the setee vertical wall is jamming the panel) to look for the manifold/pump feed line or fitting as I assumed it most likely source of leak ( full tank leaked out twice,second time within day or two while using it). It looks to me that in order to access it the lid has to be removed (the lid being larger than the tank towards centre.This would require to remove the whole setee structure as bunch of lid screws are just under it. Did any one had to do it? Through the porthole I could see and felt that the bedding of the through fitting has deteriorated with some voids under its flange, I managed to clean it and apply some 5200 with finger. Will know in a week or two if it was the problem.
Any comments/discussion appreciated
Here is a picture ot the fitting after applying the sealant
 

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fero

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Jan 15, 2010
110
Hunter Legend 40.5 Victoria
Further to the port side water tank leak, it does look that my sealing job did fix the problem. I put 5 galon into the tank waited 5 days and got to use most of it. I still wonder if anyone had to get to the feed line fitting from both sides.
Regards
Frank
 
Oct 26, 2010
1,883
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
Further to the port side water tank leak, it does look that my sealing job did fix the problem. I put 5 galon into the tank waited 5 days and got to use most of it. I still wonder if anyone had to get to the feed line fitting from both sides.
Regards
Frank
Frank,
I'm trying to understand the picture and the "through fitting" you are referring to in the post above this one? Is that a picture with the total tank top removed or a pic through the port (like the one shown for your stbd belly tank)? If it was draining the whole tank befoe you "puttied" in the 5200 then the leak had to be from the bottom or along the side near the bottom to drain the whole tank so I am surmising I am looking at the place in the bottom of the tank where the tank output (feed line) to the water pump ties into the tank. The fill line for the tank attaches to the top of the tank. Just trying to understand.
 

fero

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Jan 15, 2010
110
Hunter Legend 40.5 Victoria
Just to explain a bit better:
The stb tank had (or maybe still has, I have not filled it completely since) a weeping leak through the top lid gasket/screws.
The port tank leaked out completely twice. The picture of through (better described feed line) fitting is taken through porthole .it is on the side wall towards boat centreline. I have a thin arm and was able to apply 5200 with tip of finger. To access it correctly one would have to remove the lid which looks very difficult as number of screws are not accessible without removing port settee.
Hope it is clearer
Frank
 
Oct 26, 2010
1,883
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
Thanks Frank, that is what I surmised but wasn't completely sure of from the picture. Hope the fix works for you over the long haul.