Has anybody else had problems with the base of the mast deteriorating and how did you fix it? I have had 2 suggestions as to how I can fix the problem. The first one would be to cut off the bottom 2 inches of the mast and then build up the surface under the step by 2 inches using fiberglass and a steal or aluminum plate. The other would be to cut off 2 inches and place a "spacer" where the current step is. Does anybody have any suggestions?
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New base.
Tom Hadoulias machined a new aluminum base, I think from a block of aluminum. In other words a new mast step but two or three inches taller. I thought there were pictures in the photo forum but I could not locate them. You can reach Tom through the Owner's Directory.
Tom Hadoulias machined a new aluminum base, I think from a block of aluminum. In other words a new mast step but two or three inches taller. I thought there were pictures in the photo forum but I could not locate them. You can reach Tom through the Owner's Directory.
metalmast marine
I talked to a guy at the sailboat show in Annapolis that had a shop in Ct. called Metalmast Marine. He would build me the same thing you described, Ed. I wasn't sure about the security of such an arrangement though.
I talked to a guy at the sailboat show in Annapolis that had a shop in Ct. called Metalmast Marine. He would build me the same thing you described, Ed. I wasn't sure about the security of such an arrangement though.
Mast step integrity.
I think a solid step that is two inches higher could be better than original. This assumes that you can use the same heavy bolting pattern. The current step is just a shell and hard to describe. Maybe you have the mast out and know what it looks like. Not that substantial compared to a solid block. My mast and step are fine. But when I restepped the last time I moved the wiring exit hole much higher. I put in all new wire and wanted to keep it out of the bilge water.
I think a solid step that is two inches higher could be better than original. This assumes that you can use the same heavy bolting pattern. The current step is just a shell and hard to describe. Maybe you have the mast out and know what it looks like. Not that substantial compared to a solid block. My mast and step are fine. But when I restepped the last time I moved the wiring exit hole much higher. I put in all new wire and wanted to keep it out of the bilge water.
My mast is still in, for now
Ed, I haven't seen the step yet. Is it bolted down or is it incorporated into the floor of the bilge?
Ed, I haven't seen the step yet. Is it bolted down or is it incorporated into the floor of the bilge?
Bolted. . .I think.
I have a call into Tom and hoping he will call back. I have a terrible memory for details like that. It is an aluminum plate with sides, kind of like an oval casserole dish. One end is slotted so the bolt and wires can go through. But the detail of how that plate is mounted escapes me. I know the big mast bolt is close to the bottom so there cannot be any obstructions like other bolts. The Related Link is part of an old thread where Tom wrote about his experience. I will try to attach the picture that Tom alludes to.
I have a call into Tom and hoping he will call back. I have a terrible memory for details like that. It is an aluminum plate with sides, kind of like an oval casserole dish. One end is slotted so the bolt and wires can go through. But the detail of how that plate is mounted escapes me. I know the big mast bolt is close to the bottom so there cannot be any obstructions like other bolts. The Related Link is part of an old thread where Tom wrote about his experience. I will try to attach the picture that Tom alludes to.
Unstep your mast first
I have my mast down right now and I thought I would have to do something like your talking about because of the looks of the bottom of the mast. After unstepping the mast I found that it was just surface "rust". The mast is pretty thick aluminum. Here comes Tom now.... Ed your picture doesn't show the flange where the bolts are.
I have my mast down right now and I thought I would have to do something like your talking about because of the looks of the bottom of the mast. After unstepping the mast I found that it was just surface "rust". The mast is pretty thick aluminum. Here comes Tom now.... Ed your picture doesn't show the flange where the bolts are.
Here is what I did...
I had a pretty bad corrosion problem due to some loose electrical wires inducing 12 volts into my mast due to wire chaffing. I pulled the mast and removed exactly 2" of the mast base where the corrosion was most prevalent. At the base of the mast as built by Hunter there is a flat plate of .250" thick 6061 aluminum bolted to three keel bolts. The mast shoe as shown in Ed's picture is either bolted to the plate or welded from the factory. I merely ordered another shoe base, made another plate to match the original from the factory and obtained a 2" thick plate stock of 6061 to make up the difference of the 2" I sawed off the mast base. I then had the plate stock welded to the flat base and the mast shoe welded to the top of the plate stock being sure that all the dimensions were in exactly the same location as the stock configuration. I'll try to get some pictures this weekend and post them so you can get a better idea. There is no strength issue as everything is the same except the mast base is 2" higher than stock. The whole assembly attaches to the keel bolts preventing any movement at the bottom of the mast. If you're carefull to measure and cut the mast base properly and replace the cut-out dimension with a plate of the same size everything will fit fine. You could also just weld a section of mast in place and accomplish the same thing but you still have the mast base in the bilge water. The beauty of putting a thick plate under the mast base is that you keep the mast out of the water and prevent any future corrosion. Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop
I had a pretty bad corrosion problem due to some loose electrical wires inducing 12 volts into my mast due to wire chaffing. I pulled the mast and removed exactly 2" of the mast base where the corrosion was most prevalent. At the base of the mast as built by Hunter there is a flat plate of .250" thick 6061 aluminum bolted to three keel bolts. The mast shoe as shown in Ed's picture is either bolted to the plate or welded from the factory. I merely ordered another shoe base, made another plate to match the original from the factory and obtained a 2" thick plate stock of 6061 to make up the difference of the 2" I sawed off the mast base. I then had the plate stock welded to the flat base and the mast shoe welded to the top of the plate stock being sure that all the dimensions were in exactly the same location as the stock configuration. I'll try to get some pictures this weekend and post them so you can get a better idea. There is no strength issue as everything is the same except the mast base is 2" higher than stock. The whole assembly attaches to the keel bolts preventing any movement at the bottom of the mast. If you're carefull to measure and cut the mast base properly and replace the cut-out dimension with a plate of the same size everything will fit fine. You could also just weld a section of mast in place and accomplish the same thing but you still have the mast base in the bilge water. The beauty of putting a thick plate under the mast base is that you keep the mast out of the water and prevent any future corrosion. Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop
what I found
Raven got her mast pulled this summer for the first time ever (apparently) to re-wire. Just getting the thing out was a BEAR. The crane was actually lifting the boat 2-4 inched above her DWL with nothing but the corrosion of the step holding the mast! We finally had to unbolt the two keel bolts (while in the water!),lift the whole deal about a foot and beat the step off with a 10-lb sledge hammer and a 2x4. 20 years of salt water and galvanic corrosion left the step deeply pitted, but apparently IMHO still structurally sound. The bottom of the mast was also in pretty good shape. I wire brushed and used vinegar to eliminate most of the oxide (I should have sand-blasted), and put on a thick coat of polyester resin on the step to smooth out the rough spots and several coats of polyurethane paint. By the way, The internal mast wires were PLAIN COPPER. I replaced it with tinned 14/3. I have a picture which I will post later.
Raven got her mast pulled this summer for the first time ever (apparently) to re-wire. Just getting the thing out was a BEAR. The crane was actually lifting the boat 2-4 inched above her DWL with nothing but the corrosion of the step holding the mast! We finally had to unbolt the two keel bolts (while in the water!),lift the whole deal about a foot and beat the step off with a 10-lb sledge hammer and a 2x4. 20 years of salt water and galvanic corrosion left the step deeply pitted, but apparently IMHO still structurally sound. The bottom of the mast was also in pretty good shape. I wire brushed and used vinegar to eliminate most of the oxide (I should have sand-blasted), and put on a thick coat of polyester resin on the step to smooth out the rough spots and several coats of polyurethane paint. By the way, The internal mast wires were PLAIN COPPER. I replaced it with tinned 14/3. I have a picture which I will post later.
Another solution.
Move to fresh water.
Naahh, just kidding. All of us fresh-water guys and gals want to be in the "big" water. As soon as Tom called back and described that big plate bolted down with the keel bolts it all came back to me. One of the reasons I only have sixteen working days left? I need to get out while I have any memory left at all!
Move to fresh water.
Naahh, just kidding. All of us fresh-water guys and gals want to be in the "big" water. As soon as Tom called back and described that big plate bolted down with the keel bolts it all came back to me. One of the reasons I only have sixteen working days left? I need to get out while I have any memory left at all!Just like Tom described, except
Tom, I just got the mast out yesterday and found pretty much the same thing that you described. The mast step is welded to an aluminum plate that is bolted to 3 keel bolts. The only thing that I can't see is the edge of the plate. Mine seems to be an integral part of the bilge. Did you have to cut into any of the fiberglass in order to get the plate out? Or did you just leave the plate in and weld another plate on top?
Tom, I just got the mast out yesterday and found pretty much the same thing that you described. The mast step is welded to an aluminum plate that is bolted to 3 keel bolts. The only thing that I can't see is the edge of the plate. Mine seems to be an integral part of the bilge. Did you have to cut into any of the fiberglass in order to get the plate out? Or did you just leave the plate in and weld another plate on top?
Speaking for Tom.
Unfortunately Tom does not spend enough time on HOW, too busy working on the H37C. What he told me is that he removed the keelbolt nuts and the plate lifted out attached to the mast. Then "they" beat the foot and plate off the mast with a sledge. I think it is just recessed, not actually glassed in. Since your mast is already out you might try to get a crowbar under an edge to see what gives. One of those sharp-ended smaller wrecking bars might work. Or make a heavy bar that can bolt between the fore and aft bolts. Then some kind of a lever under that bar might lift it. Old boats are such fun!!
Unfortunately Tom does not spend enough time on HOW, too busy working on the H37C. What he told me is that he removed the keelbolt nuts and the plate lifted out attached to the mast. Then "they" beat the foot and plate off the mast with a sledge. I think it is just recessed, not actually glassed in. Since your mast is already out you might try to get a crowbar under an edge to see what gives. One of those sharp-ended smaller wrecking bars might work. Or make a heavy bar that can bolt between the fore and aft bolts. Then some kind of a lever under that bar might lift it. Old boats are such fun!!
Ed is exactly right...
Brian, The plate is bonded to the keelson with 5200 from the factory. Mine came out just as Ed described but it was stuck pretty good and it came loose as we were trying to get the mast out. You don't want to weld anything to the plate while it's still attached to the boat as you may burn the glass underneath. The plate should be corroded enough to let the 5200 come loose so I would go with what Ed suggested and try prying from the edges. I unbolted everything in the water and had no leaks from the keel bolts so that shouldn't be a problem if you haven't loosened that up yet. Feel free to email me at shadoulias@cfl.rr.com if I can help out in any way. I've been doing the bottom on my boat this week so I haven't checked in much, lots of fun as I have some small blisters. I'll just paint over them and launch as they've been there this long, a little while longer won't hurt. Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop
Brian, The plate is bonded to the keelson with 5200 from the factory. Mine came out just as Ed described but it was stuck pretty good and it came loose as we were trying to get the mast out. You don't want to weld anything to the plate while it's still attached to the boat as you may burn the glass underneath. The plate should be corroded enough to let the 5200 come loose so I would go with what Ed suggested and try prying from the edges. I unbolted everything in the water and had no leaks from the keel bolts so that shouldn't be a problem if you haven't loosened that up yet. Feel free to email me at shadoulias@cfl.rr.com if I can help out in any way. I've been doing the bottom on my boat this week so I haven't checked in much, lots of fun as I have some small blisters. I'll just paint over them and launch as they've been there this long, a little while longer won't hurt. Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop
photo forum
See the photo forum for mast step photos. What a pain! I believe this was the first time this mast was ever pulled. At least now I have an anchor light.
See the photo forum for mast step photos. What a pain! I believe this was the first time this mast was ever pulled. At least now I have an anchor light.
I shopped till I nearly dropped, but I found a 1 1/8" deep socket in my little town. Needed a 10" and a 5" extension to reach the nuts. Put a length of pipe on my socket wrench and broke the 3 nuts loose. Drilled a small hole in the mast and sprayed a whole can of PB blaster inside. Tomorrw I will attempt to grind away the fillet of caulk or 5200 or whatever at the base of the mast, then Tuesday pull it. I want to raise the mast base, but I haven't worked out the details yet (or the height) so I'd really rather not cut the mast off the base freehand in the cabin, but if I have to I will.
Bill, Tom's e-mail address above might still be good. I remember that project so well. I used to stop and visit his boat whenever I was in Florida in the early 2000s. He lived on it for awhile. He had access to so many resources because he worked at NASA.
I was able to activate it because of whatever Phil did. When I saw his note and you were not online I went and posted to it. It became active. Problem with those old threads is that the photos were lost in the conversion. Fortunately Tom put a lot of his work in Hunter Owners Mods.
I was able to activate it because of whatever Phil did. When I saw his note and you were not online I went and posted to it. It became active. Problem with those old threads is that the photos were lost in the conversion. Fortunately Tom put a lot of his work in Hunter Owners Mods.
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