37C Main Traveller

Ed Schenck · Jan 10, 2011

I don't think raising the traveler solves the interference Jim. Those locker covers have square ends and need clearance for most of their travel. You might cut some PlasTeak to put the traveler on a forward slope. But that would cause the loads to be at an angle. Not sure I like that. But what did Blaise write about moving the blocks forward on the track for locker clearance? Mark's installation with the cleats facing forward really isn't so bad.

Looking at this Garhauer picture( http://garhauermarine.com/ProductSpecs.cfm?pid=178 ), could the cam cleat be relocated? What if it was moved inboard of the locker lid? Then it would have to face athwartship, port cleat faces starboard and vice versa. Maybe Garhauer would even customize it, they are good at that.

sandpiper10471 · Jan 10, 2011

I think for a cockpit traveler it is best to bring the leads up the sides of the coamings. Blaise - could you post a photo of your setup please? I, like Ed S, have been doing manual adjstments but I am now convinced by Blaise that an easily adjustable traveler is much safer. Didn't I learn anything while waisting my youth racing high performance dinghies?

Blaise · Jan 11, 2011

I am presently in Ohio enjoying Ed's snow. I will try to get one of my crew to take some pictures and send them to me.

Ed A · Jan 11, 2011

Ed s after sailing yours i will talk you into a new setup. It is all about easy. easy to move, easy to trim and did i say easy to move? well thats kinda it isnt it?
easy to move is what you need. I used my travler a lot to depower or shape the main. i know theres enough racer in you to do that!

Ed Schenck · Jan 11, 2011

Well Ed when I saw the price of the Garhauer I started to rethink. It really is not too costly an upgrade. Getting the old one off and new one installed could be tough. But I have always wanted to replace that teak base with PlasTeak. Probably get the MT-1( http://garhauermarine.com/ProductSpecs.cfm?pid=178 ) from Garhauer(http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=34 ).

P.S. as I look at the illustration why couldn't the cam cleats be on the car? If the top block on the car had the becket I don't see why it wouldn't work. This would solve the problem of the cam cleats hanging over the locker lids. I have e-mailed Garhauer with the question.

emilbec · Jan 13, 2011

When it was time to replace my traveler I explored all the alternatives. If you have blocks with cleats at the the ends of the travel, you cannot open the cockpit lockers (ugh!!). The only alternative I found was to use a Harkin windward sheeting traveler with jut blocks at the ends. Still have trouble opening the cockpit lockers when the car is too close. It is great to use to depower (or power up) the main in heavy winds. To fit I raised the traveler with a heavier piece of teak to replace the original teak which I am willing to part with (I have started spring cleaning early!!). I am willing to supply pictures of the retrofit!!!

Mark Price · Jan 13, 2011

Emil -
Please post a photo. I stopped bye to check out your set up before I started my update but you had already pulled for the winter. I think your set up might help others in making the leap to this Mod.

Mark

Ed Schenck · Jan 14, 2011

Yep, another day and already learned something: http://www.harken.com/traveler/WindwardSheeting.php . This is exactly what I had asked Garhauer to do. They wrote back that I should call and discuss which I haven't done yet. With windward sheeting you would simply have to move the car towards the center to let the locker lid clear. Almost looks like I might keep the track that I have. Why did you have to use a thicker teak mount Emil?

Whoa, just checked the price. Car alone is $400.!

Bill1565 · Jan 14, 2011

I had windward sheeting on 2 of my race boats. It is great. It's on the list for my 37c but not near the top yet. I don't think it will work on the track that came on my boat, so $400 is just the beginning

Ed Schenck · Jan 16, 2011

Traveler pictures from Blaise

Blaise is working. . . .in Ohio! He sent some pictures that he asked me to post that are germane to this thread. Actually I forget how we got here but I'll post them anyway. Adjustable traveler and jib track on a winning H37C named "Midnight Sun".

P.S. never learned how to post pictures in the thread.
P.S.S. just noticed the crank on the backstay. Serious stuff!

Blaise · Jan 17, 2011

Thanks Ed. By the way, the backstay adjuster is a Harken Barberossa (sp?) which has worked well since 1986. We shorten the backstay 4" when going uphill, unless the chop requires some headstay sag to power up the boat in light air.

Ed Schenck · Jan 17, 2011

So Blaise, you shorten the backstay four inches. But what is your starting point? In other words what does the rake and bend look like going "downhill"?

Blaise · Jan 17, 2011

Ed, the starting point is the backstay being just tight enough to keep the mast from inverting. The headstay will sag a few inches at this setting going uphill. As the wind increases we increase the backstay to eliminate the sag. The most we ever shorten it is about four inches which is a lot of pressure. The mast is bent a little at this load, which changes the draft in the main. Anytime you alter the backstay, you have to re-trim the sails. After we race, we completely unload the rig, which I think is good for the boat. When we just go sailing, we shorten it about an inch and leave it.
T

Ed Schenck · Jan 18, 2011

"When we just go sailing" means when there is no other boat on the horizon. I know how you think.

emilbec · Jan 18, 2011

Blaise (and Ed),

Like your jib tracks, but to bolt them down did you go all the way through the interior liner. I have been reluctant to do this because the boat has an inner liner which makes it difficult to mount any new hardware on the deck. My Cal 2 -29 did not have liner and I could mount just about every thing I wanted on the deck with no effort (other than backing plates). And did Gerhauer make backing plates for the jib tracks?? Or did you just use large washers???

Ed Schenck · Jan 19, 2011

I will also be interested to hear how those tracks are mounted. I have two different mounting techniques on Ladylove. For the handrails I drilled 3/4" holes and epoxied in hardwood dowels. Then using long stainless screws put the rails back on. I don't think that would be adequate for the forces on the jib track. My deck organizers(double cheekblocks) are through-bolted. On the inside I just use large stainless fender washers. Here again the forces on a big jib might be too much to do a rail like that.

Bill1565 · Jan 19, 2011

I still use the rail for jib sheet blocks, but other boats I have owned had bolts and washers every 4 to 6 inches. Kind of like the way the toe rails are fastened, but with fender washers. One boat had a long metal strip inside dirlled to match the genoa track. Bolts went thru both pieces of metal.

Ed A · Jan 19, 2011

I think the big deal about the harken system is the ease in tacking with the windward sheeting cars. they release when you tack and go to the setting for the other tack.

37C Main Traveller

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