Has anyone had any expirience with a low friction sail track and slides made by Tides Marine that they sell under the name "Strong Track and Slides"? I recently had a heart attack and need to do some things to make raising the Main a little easier. My local sailmaker installs both the Harken Battcar hardware as well as the Strong Track System. Cost of the Strong Track is about half of the Harken and it looks like it would work well.An electric primary winch would help but they are an expensive solution.
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Guest
Practical Sailor
Practical Sailor magazine recently did a comprehensive review of lots of low friction mainsail systems. If you have access to back issues, this would provide info on what's available, how they work, and their prices. For the most part, they found that you get what you pay for. Robert Pancza
Practical Sailor magazine recently did a comprehensive review of lots of low friction mainsail systems. If you have access to back issues, this would provide info on what's available, how they work, and their prices. For the most part, they found that you get what you pay for. Robert Pancza
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R. Palai
Just did the same thing
I also looked at a low friction device for the mainsail. My local sailmaker tried various low friction slides, but the only one's that would fit my sail track were the expensive ones, $120 each! (about $500 total!!). The cheaper $40 ones did not fit (I was standing right there as he tried them all out). The other option he suggested was the Strong Track. About $800 for my boat (Hunter 33.5). I ended up going with the Dutchman end batten fittings. They were rated good by Practical Sailor and they are about $50 each. Hope this helps. Roc
I also looked at a low friction device for the mainsail. My local sailmaker tried various low friction slides, but the only one's that would fit my sail track were the expensive ones, $120 each! (about $500 total!!). The cheaper $40 ones did not fit (I was standing right there as he tried them all out). The other option he suggested was the Strong Track. About $800 for my boat (Hunter 33.5). I ended up going with the Dutchman end batten fittings. They were rated good by Practical Sailor and they are about $50 each. Hope this helps. Roc
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Guest
Strong Track
I installed Strong Track last year and wouldn't trade it for the world! I have a 336 and the main was an absolute bugger to raise. Put in the track and bingo, I can lift the main easily from either the cockpit or fore deck. You've got to lube the turning blocks, etc. regularly with McLube or something like that but that is not the fault of the Strong Track. That's the way I would go.
I installed Strong Track last year and wouldn't trade it for the world! I have a 336 and the main was an absolute bugger to raise. Put in the track and bingo, I can lift the main easily from either the cockpit or fore deck. You've got to lube the turning blocks, etc. regularly with McLube or something like that but that is not the fault of the Strong Track. That's the way I would go.
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Curt Morris
Reconsider the Electric Winch...the best solution
William, My wife and I decided after one season of raising the mainsail on our 1998 H-376 to determine if we could make it easier. We could manually raise the sail, but the strenous effort of raising and lowering the sail several times during a day took away from the enjoyment of the boat. I found through talking to various owners and looking at the rig that much of the problem is not only the sail slides and weight of the sail (rigid battens which can cause some binding with the sail slides contribute to the problem), but the long halyard and reef runs which must traverse various blocks. The reef lines in particular add lots of friction if they are fully cinched down when you begin to raise the sail. In my view the reef lines are the main culprit besides the sheer size of the sail. We solved the problem once and for all by ensuring the reef lines are pulled through the stoppers so that their are no lines left to dangle in the line holders on the port and starboard sides of the boat (only the bitter ends of the lines show at the aft end of the stoppers). We keep the loose reef lines on top of the sail under the sail ties and sail cover when the sail is not in use. I then used McLube Sailcoat spray on all blocks, stoppers etc. I cleaned the sail track with an inexpensive teflon grease run up and down the track with a slide attached to the halyard and a downhaul line. The final part of the solution was the professional installation of the Lewmar 44est electric winch (hunter makes a fiberglass housing to hide the engine part of the winch in the aft berth overhead). This cost around $3600 complete installed. Yes it was expensive, but in the long run cheaper than all the other slide fixes which won't really solve the problem. Simply, the main is huge and heavy with lots of binding lines and battens. I hope this helps. Curt Morris S/V Smooth Operator
William, My wife and I decided after one season of raising the mainsail on our 1998 H-376 to determine if we could make it easier. We could manually raise the sail, but the strenous effort of raising and lowering the sail several times during a day took away from the enjoyment of the boat. I found through talking to various owners and looking at the rig that much of the problem is not only the sail slides and weight of the sail (rigid battens which can cause some binding with the sail slides contribute to the problem), but the long halyard and reef runs which must traverse various blocks. The reef lines in particular add lots of friction if they are fully cinched down when you begin to raise the sail. In my view the reef lines are the main culprit besides the sheer size of the sail. We solved the problem once and for all by ensuring the reef lines are pulled through the stoppers so that their are no lines left to dangle in the line holders on the port and starboard sides of the boat (only the bitter ends of the lines show at the aft end of the stoppers). We keep the loose reef lines on top of the sail under the sail ties and sail cover when the sail is not in use. I then used McLube Sailcoat spray on all blocks, stoppers etc. I cleaned the sail track with an inexpensive teflon grease run up and down the track with a slide attached to the halyard and a downhaul line. The final part of the solution was the professional installation of the Lewmar 44est electric winch (hunter makes a fiberglass housing to hide the engine part of the winch in the aft berth overhead). This cost around $3600 complete installed. Yes it was expensive, but in the long run cheaper than all the other slide fixes which won't really solve the problem. Simply, the main is huge and heavy with lots of binding lines and battens. I hope this helps. Curt Morris S/V Smooth Operator
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R. Palaia
Reduce halyard diameter
As stated in my earlier answer, I too am trying to make raising and lowering the mainsail easier on my 33.5. My sailmaker gave me another option. Replace the existing halyard with one of smaller diameter. You can do this by buying a more expensive "high tech" line which would give the same tensile strength, but at a smaller diameter. The smaller line will give less friction on all the turns. I still have to install my Dutchman end batten fittings. I might go with a smaller line myself if this doesn't work to my expectations. Roc
As stated in my earlier answer, I too am trying to make raising and lowering the mainsail easier on my 33.5. My sailmaker gave me another option. Replace the existing halyard with one of smaller diameter. You can do this by buying a more expensive "high tech" line which would give the same tensile strength, but at a smaller diameter. The smaller line will give less friction on all the turns. I still have to install my Dutchman end batten fittings. I might go with a smaller line myself if this doesn't work to my expectations. Roc
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Vernon Downing
Strong Track Also
I installed the Strong Track on my 376 after two years of trying to solve the problem with teflon lubes, different slides, and even an electric winch handle. (don't underestimate the forces acting on the masthead sheaves if you simply try to overcome all the friction with mechanical force; the larger of my masthead sheaves was destroyed by that approach). I've had the Strong Track for over a year now and it has eliminated the friction problem. Realize, of course, that the mainsail with battens still weighs on the order of 100 pounds, so it doesn't exactly float skyward, but the Strong Track takes care of the mast track friction issue.
I installed the Strong Track on my 376 after two years of trying to solve the problem with teflon lubes, different slides, and even an electric winch handle. (don't underestimate the forces acting on the masthead sheaves if you simply try to overcome all the friction with mechanical force; the larger of my masthead sheaves was destroyed by that approach). I've had the Strong Track for over a year now and it has eliminated the friction problem. Realize, of course, that the mainsail with battens still weighs on the order of 100 pounds, so it doesn't exactly float skyward, but the Strong Track takes care of the mast track friction issue.
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Vernon Downing
Strong Track Also
I installed the Strong Track on my 376 after two years of trying to solve the problem with teflon lubes, different slides, and even an electric winch handle. (don't underestimate the forces acting on the masthead sheaves if you simply try to overcome all the friction with mechanical force; the larger of my masthead sheaves was destroyed by that approach). I've had the Strong Track for over a year now and it has eliminated the friction problem. Realize, of course, that the mainsail with battens still weighs on the order of 100 pounds, so it doesn't exactly float skyward, but the Strong Track takes care of the mast track friction issue.
I installed the Strong Track on my 376 after two years of trying to solve the problem with teflon lubes, different slides, and even an electric winch handle. (don't underestimate the forces acting on the masthead sheaves if you simply try to overcome all the friction with mechanical force; the larger of my masthead sheaves was destroyed by that approach). I've had the Strong Track for over a year now and it has eliminated the friction problem. Realize, of course, that the mainsail with battens still weighs on the order of 100 pounds, so it doesn't exactly float skyward, but the Strong Track takes care of the mast track friction issue.
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Dave Dahlstrom
Go with an electric winch
I have recently completed replacing my Barient 22-39 main halyard winch with an ARCO 40 single speed electric winch. ARCO was extremely helpful in supplying information and, without exageration, built a "custom" single speed electric winch for my Hunter Vision 36. Although just installed I am very impressed with the quality. They are professional,a pleasure to deal with and the winch cost was $1900.00. The installation wasn't real easy but can be done or contracted.
I have recently completed replacing my Barient 22-39 main halyard winch with an ARCO 40 single speed electric winch. ARCO was extremely helpful in supplying information and, without exageration, built a "custom" single speed electric winch for my Hunter Vision 36. Although just installed I am very impressed with the quality. They are professional,a pleasure to deal with and the winch cost was $1900.00. The installation wasn't real easy but can be done or contracted.
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Mark Juetten
Double Up
I solved the problem thanks to Don Alexanders idea of using a block at the headboard with the bitter end attached to the masthead. It halves the workload and I can now hand the sail up from deck or cockpit. You'll need a new halyardadd 50'and youcan drop one dia.size. Am very satisfied with this setup.
I solved the problem thanks to Don Alexanders idea of using a block at the headboard with the bitter end attached to the masthead. It halves the workload and I can now hand the sail up from deck or cockpit. You'll need a new halyardadd 50'and youcan drop one dia.size. Am very satisfied with this setup.
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Jerry May
Inadequate Hardware
I fought the same battle for 3 years. I installed batt cars, I installed the 2 to 1 purchase on the main halyard, and I still could not raise the main easily from the cockpit. I finally raised the cowling and found that Hunter installed light duty double stack line organizers to turn the lines from the mast step to the cockpit. On top of that, they ran the main halyard, obviously the line with the highest load, on one of the top sheaves. Needless to say the loads had warped the line organizers so badly that all of the sheaves were bound to the point that they could not move. I am in the process of changing out the line organizers to Harken #1502s. I will let you know how it goes.
I fought the same battle for 3 years. I installed batt cars, I installed the 2 to 1 purchase on the main halyard, and I still could not raise the main easily from the cockpit. I finally raised the cowling and found that Hunter installed light duty double stack line organizers to turn the lines from the mast step to the cockpit. On top of that, they ran the main halyard, obviously the line with the highest load, on one of the top sheaves. Needless to say the loads had warped the line organizers so badly that all of the sheaves were bound to the point that they could not move. I am in the process of changing out the line organizers to Harken #1502s. I will let you know how it goes.
J
Jerry May
Inadequate Hardware
I fought the same battle for 3 years. I installed batt cars, I installed the 2 to 1 purchase on the main halyard, and I still could not raise the main easily from the cockpit. I finally raised the cowling and found that Hunter installed light duty double stack line organizers to turn the lines from the mast step to the cockpit. On top of that, they ran the main halyard, obviously the line with the highest load, on one of the top sheaves. Needless to say the loads had warped the line organizers so badly that all of the sheaves were bound to the point that they could not move. I am in the process of changing out the line organizers to Harken #1502s. I will let you know how it goes.
I fought the same battle for 3 years. I installed batt cars, I installed the 2 to 1 purchase on the main halyard, and I still could not raise the main easily from the cockpit. I finally raised the cowling and found that Hunter installed light duty double stack line organizers to turn the lines from the mast step to the cockpit. On top of that, they ran the main halyard, obviously the line with the highest load, on one of the top sheaves. Needless to say the loads had warped the line organizers so badly that all of the sheaves were bound to the point that they could not move. I am in the process of changing out the line organizers to Harken #1502s. I will let you know how it goes.
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