373 (or similar) anchor tensioner, tether, safety solution?

ToddS

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Sep 11, 2017
248
Beneteau 373 Cape Cod
Less than a year ago, I bought a new-to-me 2004 373. While I've sailed for decades, this is the first boat I've owned with an anchor windlass. When the anchor is on the bow roller (while sailing, or moored) it seems/sounds prudent to use some type of anchor tensioner or lock... both to protect the windlass from unnecessary strain, and to prevent catastrophe if the windlass were to ever "let go" at an inopportune time. The previous owner used (and I continue to use) a very light line attached to the bow pulpit and tied through the anchor/shackle/swivel, which I suppose is better than nothing at all, but I'm thinking could and should be much better than it is. I've looked at all sorts of tensioners, locks, chain-grabbers, snubbers, etc, but my problem is that the shank of the anchor itself reaches almost all the way back under the lid that covers the chain locker, and then the chain passes under that lid back to where the top of the windlass is visible behind the locker. I can get something to grab the chain between the anchor and the windlass, but with the chain being recessed below the deck, I can't figure out how I would ever attach the lock/tether/whatever to the boat in such a way as to be pulling aft to relieve the strain from the windlass. Unfortunately I'm hours away from my boat, and don't have a good photo, but here's a random photo from the internet that shows a SIMILAR anchor/windlass/locker configuration... if anything, the shank on mine extends farther aft under the edge of the door than the one in the photo... but you get the idea. Anyone want to share what they do (or do you do nothing?) to secure their anchors if they have a similar configuration? Thanks.
 

RoyS

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Jun 3, 2012
1,739
Hunter 33 Steamboat Wharf, Hull, MA
I do not have a windlass but I use two bungy cords to secure my anchor. Both are solid black rubber types about 12" long. They are totally within the anchor locker. One end attaches to the rear anchor locker fastener for the bitter end of the anchor rode and the other to the chain. Just stretch and hook anywhere on the chain. Used for years.
 
Feb 20, 2011
7,990
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
Drill holes in the anchor roller's frame and anchor shank for a locking through-pin?

anchor locking pin.PNG

Works for me.
 
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Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,131
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
I use a chain hook attached to 3/8 line and then back to the drum. On my boat, I have a separate anchor cleat, but you could simply take a couple of wraps.
 
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Jul 23, 2014
15
Beneteau OC 400 Anacortes
I have a small cable (1/8 diameter) loop attached to the swivel end of a fitting like this. The snap end fits through the chain link and I loop the cable around the windlass. My windlass is a horizontal that has a rope capstan on one side and the chain on the other. I also have a bow roller that has a sliding pin on the end that goes across above the anchor and prevents the anchor from moving forward when engaged.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Our B deck cleats are usually threaded long enough to put a mm eye nut on to tie a short line to. Tie the other end to any link of the chain.
 

Gunni

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Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
Yeah, you definitely need to take the load off the windlass AND lock the anchor down against rough weather conditions. You don’t have much room near your windlass to mount a chain lock (my preferred location), or even secure a chain hook to cleat. If your anchor shank doesn’t extend past the lip of the locker you can mount a Lewmar anchor lock on the flange in front of the locker:
upload_2018-9-19_16-13-19.jpeg
 
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Likes: NYSail
Jul 23, 2014
15
Beneteau OC 400 Anacortes
I have a OC 400 that also has an anchor shank that extends under the lid. When the anchor is fully on the bow roller and I back the windless (as in lowering the anchor) slightly the weight of the anchor and chain holds the anchor in place on the bow roller and there is no load, i. e. anchor weight, on the windlass gears. The arrangement I describe above is a "safety" which if the weather was bad enough might cause the anchor to slide forward and put load, i.e.anchor weigh, on the capstan, rather than on the windlass gears. This has never happened in the 14 years I have owned the boat.
 

NYSail

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Jan 6, 2006
3,048
Beneteau 423 Mt. Sinai, NY
right now mine it tied off with a piece of amsteel but am getting a chain lock as Gunni stated
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,809
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
I have a cleat mounted to the side of the windlass in the fiberglass and use a wire cable to tie off
and was there from factory.
Also use it when anchored to tie off the chain with a bridle from mantis.
Nick
 

DougM

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Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
I have been using a caribiner to latch my anchor through a convenient hole in the side of the anchor roller frame that aligns perfectly with a hole in the anchor shank. Its really a cheap bandaid approach but it works until I get around to justifying the cost of an anchor lock.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,399
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
To secure the anchor in the roller, any manner of simple chain lock forward of the lid will work. Easy. You will need to reinforce under the deck.

When anchored, you a rope snubber bridle to the mooring cleats. Easy. In fact, that should always be standard practice if you want the windlass to last.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
For those who want to secure the anchor in the roller, rememebr you may have to deal with it ASAP or in a storm or such. Better to have it restrained in the locker. Not sure why people want to spend money on brackets when a scrap piece of rope will suffice. The OP could tie a line an each side of the gypsy to secure the anchor to the windlass in a hurry.
 
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ToddS

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Sep 11, 2017
248
Beneteau 373 Cape Cod
Some good suggestions here... some that might work for me, but others aren't good on my boat. There is no room for a real anchor lock like gunni suggested (though I like the idea). And the hole in the roller with a pin through the anchor likely won't be too good for me, since my pulpit rail keeps me from easily reaching out to the roller without lying flat on my chest and really reaching way out there... not something I'd like to deal with if I'm in a hurry, or in bad weather, etc. I like the snap-shackle idea... not sure I have a good place to attach to the boat without surgery... maybe a wire or line back to the capstain... would rather not take strain off the windlass by hooking to the windlass ideally... but I suppose that's a very different kind of strain, and probably not a problem at all. Bungees (while I generally shy away from them) might not be too bad here I guess... not super strong, but should keep things nice and taught if they're strong ones... and they WOULD stay out of the bungee-killing sun under the lid. I'll take pictures of my actual situation next time I'm aboard. Thanks for input all!
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,989
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
If you need simple. Then a line that is fixed to the boat and affixed to the anchor chain is the simplest.

Materials... Dyneema/Amsteel line is light, easy to work with and strong as steel. The line is easy to tie into an Eye splice for the chain and a loop for the deck. (Check out the manual below for tying an eye splice)
upload_2018-9-21_8-5-51.png

On the deck or in the anchor locker place a padeye. This one by Wichard has a 4080kg working load and a 9000kg breaking load

and put a strong backing plate on it, say a 1/8 plate of aluminum.
You can measure the length so that the tension fit is correct.
Draw in the chain with the windlass, attache the line with a shackle then let off the strain of the windlass.

I would still secure the anchor to the bow with a separate line in bad weather.
 

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Mar 26, 2011
3,399
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
...There is no room for a real anchor lock like gunni suggested (though I like the idea)....

... not sure I have a good place to attach to the boat without surgery...
Ditch the swivel and there will be room for a lock. I ditched the swivel a decade ago and have not missed it. Just fix your chain alignment (it has a 1/2-twist).
You've got perfectly good deck cleats for the rope snubber used while at anchor.
Easy.
 

ToddS

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Sep 11, 2017
248
Beneteau 373 Cape Cod
chainlocker.jpg

I finally got around to photographing my dilemma... still haven't corrected it. As you can see from the photo... the anchor extends too far back to accommodate a proper chain lock/stopper ahead of the locker opening. There's little-to-no-room aft of the locker opening before the windlass. All of the chain... from anchor to windlass, is recessed down lower than the surface of the deck. In re-reading some of the previous comments, some of you may have misunderstood my issue. I have no problem while anchored... I only have 30 feet of chain... backed by nylon... so I NEVER have the boat anchored with pressure on the windlass... the nylon comes back to a deck cleat (not pictured)... no problem there... It is all the time the anchor sits on the roller, where there is at least SOME strain on the windlass, and no good safety for if the windlass were to let go. I have a SMALL, inadequate rope that I tie through the chain, which MIGHT be better than nothing at preventing the chain from falling... but doesn't relieve strain on the windlass.
 

RoyS

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Jun 3, 2012
1,739
Hunter 33 Steamboat Wharf, Hull, MA
Two bungee cords inside the locker. Solid rubber with stainless hooks available from McMaster Carr. Get 12" models. Cheap, strong, effective and you have two, so fail safe. Easy to deploy anchor in an emergency in seconds. Been using this system for a decade. No rattles either.
 

ToddS

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Sep 11, 2017
248
Beneteau 373 Cape Cod
Alright Roy, I'll give that a try... while I'd love to have a stainless, bombproof tensioner/lock system... sometimes the simple solution works best... especially where it's kept out of the sun, bungees might be good here, and best of all, cheap and easy to install. Thanks.