2GMF Yanmar

Oct 22, 2014
352
Pearson P303 #221 RockPort Maine
Hi ALL! I have a 2GMF Yanmar engine and would like help on what electric fuel pump should I get to replace my lift pump?? PSI? cant seem to find one or any information on topic.. Thanks
 
Jun 1, 2007
265
O'Day 322 Mt.Sinai
Why are you replacing the original with an electric? Assume you mean a 2GM20F? The cam driven factory pump is fine..
 
Sep 11, 2015
147
Hunter 31 Marina del Rey
On my 2GMF I had an electric pump between the Racor filter and the cam driven lift pump. Any diesel pump from Amazon ($15) should do as long as it is in line and in addition to the OEM lift pump. There is no logic to replacing the original pump. It is reliable, inexpensive ($50, compare that to the raw water pump that is something like $650), enables the engine to run without electricity (if you can start it :) and frankly, pushing the bleed lever 20-30 times is not such a royal difficulty.
 
Jun 21, 2004
2,532
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
Had a 2GM20F on my previous boat I installed a squeeze type primer bulb, as used on outboard motors, to aid in bleeding the filters. Inexpensive and easy to access.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,665
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
It is a 2GMF 13hp. To make it easy to bleed!
I replace filters and bleed perhaps 20 or so Yanmars a year with manual pumps. It's easy and takes but a few minutes. You just need to make sure the pump is off the cam (just rotate the engine a bit) and they prime up in no time at all even if you don't pre-fill the filter.
 

HMT2

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Mar 20, 2014
899
Hunter 31 828 Shoreacres, TX
Had a 2GM20F on my previous boat I installed a squeeze type primer bulb, as used on outboard motors, to aid in bleeding the filters. Inexpensive and easy to access.
I have this on my 2GM it makes it super easy to bleed. No way would I put an electric pump.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,665
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Had a 2GM20F on my previous boat I installed a squeeze type primer bulb, as used on outboard motors, to aid in bleeding the filters. Inexpensive and easy to access.
Just be aware that there are no fuel priming bulbs that meet the minimum USCG or ABYC safety standards for below deck use, unless one came out just recently that I missed. I have seen one split, on a customers trawler, and the stench was so bad & so permeated into everything he finally had to sell the boat at a huge loss. Beautiful boat other than the stench of diesel..

This was the actual bulb. Over a few week period it leaked nearly 75 gallons of fuel into the boat.....
 
Jun 21, 2004
2,532
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
Just be aware that there are no fuel priming bulbs that meet the minimum USCG or ABYC safety standards for below deck use, unless one came out just recently that I missed.
Scratch that idea on the primer bulb! I had one on my previous boat for about 7 years without a problem & it definitely made priming / bleeding filters easier. Got the idea from a sailing rag about 20 years ago; however, if the bulbs are not compliant for below deck use, don’t use it. Thanks Maine for making that point.
 
Jun 21, 2004
2,532
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
You just need to make sure the pump is off the cam (just rotate the engine a bit) and they prime up in no time at all even if you don't pre-fill the filter.
Maine,
How do you know if the pump is “off the cam”? And how do you correct for that? Do you just bump the starter or do you rotate the engine manually.
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,884
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
I have had luck with trial/error, BigEasy.. Pull the compression releases .. Test the prime lever.. You should feel an almost full stroke of the lever with the diaphragm spring and the lever spring resistance.. If you only feel the diaphragm spring toward end of lever travel, roll the engine a quarter turn and test.. you should feel the higher resistance part of the stroke get longer or shorter.. if longer ya going the right way.. keep going that way until ya get an almost full stroke.. then with a Sharpie, put a mark on the crank pulley so that you can go back to that spot quickly. Since the cam is 1/2 speed of crank, The next time you have to do it, ya may have to roll it another turn or so at the mark to get the cam in the right place.. but easy to do with compression released
 
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Jun 21, 2004
2,532
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
Thanks Kloudie,
Had trouble with the 2GM20F on one occasion, before I knew about the cam. Had to call mechanic out and of course, he had it primed and running in 10 minutes. He told me about the cam having to be in the proper position for the priming pump to work. On the 3YM30 that I now have, I have been lucky and haven’t had any problems priming after filter changes. Guess that yanmar “economized” the 3YM30 series as there are no compression releases on this engine series.
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,884
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Oooff I can see why it'd be harder to turn over to get the cam correct.. I didn't know that the YM series didn't have compression releases.. ..
 
Oct 22, 2014
352
Pearson P303 #221 RockPort Maine
I want to thank all of you for the great input here. Some really good idea's. Will let you all know what I have decided to do about this problem. The one thing that makes me want to go electric in line with the yanmar lift pump is to force fuel threw engine even if air is presented after it starts and runs then, turn electric pump off. Will this do that?
 
Jan 30, 2012
1,123
Nor'Sea 27 "Kiwanda" Portland/ Anacortes
No. The air upstream of the any lift pump - mechanical or electric - must be eliminated. This is why the guard filter (the one mounted on the motor) is at the highest point in the system. Bleed screws are at the top of the canister. Use the smaller of the two and do not bear down when you close it else you can strip the threads. No need to bear down either because the canister is under low positive pressure - about 5psi - from the lift pump(s).

Charles

ps Turn it off and thus confine its use to air elimination - bleeding.

pps One assumes you plan to put the electric in line - downstream of the mechanical pump.
 
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Jun 1, 2007
265
O'Day 322 Mt.Sinai
StargazerP303, here's the big secret to bleed the fuel on this engine... When you need to bleed, say after a filter change, crack the bleed screw open on the engine filter (secondary). Then push the lever down on the engine driven fuel pump. Push it slow. All the way down near the bottom of the stroke, you'll feel some resistance, maybe the last 1/4". That's the ONLY part of the stroke that's pushing fuel. Everything up to that was for nothing. That's why Maine Sail and others talk about getting it off the cam. If there is no last 1/4 inch, and you feel no resistance for the entire stroke, just bump the starter (with the de-compression levers open to ensure it doesn't start), and try again. Once you feel that last 1/4 " of pressure, you're golden. Keep pushing the lever up and down until fuel comes out of the bleed screw. Once it does, close the bleed, and open the bleed on the injector pump and do the same thing. Once you bleed those 2 spots, you're probably good to go.
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,723
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
I finally changed the primary and secondary filters on my 2GM20 a few weeks ago. Haven’t been changed in the 4 seasons I have owned her, and not sure how since the PO had done it. Engine ran fine, but was concerned about the paper filters falling apart (and I was curious what was being picked up out of the tank...). I was nervous to start this and about bleeding the air out.

I turned off the fuel valve at the tank first, and I made sure both of the filters were full of fuel (used a cup of diesel to fill them ) after replacing the filters.

I started the engine after changing the filters, tied up tight to the dock, and ran the engine in gear for 30 minutes to make sure she didn’t stop with a load on the engine. Ran fine and never actually had to bleed the system.

Greg