1997 h40.5 floorboard removal

[Rich Stidger]

Have any of the 40.5 owners removed the floorboard under the port side U-shaped settee? The inner-most floorboard that is under the edge of the settee has water damage from the A/C unit. I cannot find a drain from the A/C pan to the bilge- Does anyone know if the factory actually installed one?
In any event I have just discovered that the wood is soft and rotted and needs replacement. Looking at the board, there are a few obvious screws and it looks like once all the screws are found and removed that the piece can be slid out up to the compression post and then removed. The A/C unit appears to be mounted higher than the floorboard so the floorboard can slide out. The same is true for the two refrigeration compressors. However, looks can be deceiving.

If anyone has guidance on this job I would appreciate hearing from you.

 

[JamesG161]

I have removed all of my cabin deck boards. Although not your boat, the curved ones are a major pain to remove/install.
There is only one way in and out and it is a very complicated twists and turns.
So if you remove it, I would video it to reverse the procedure.
_________
I found rotten soft wood from a plugged up bilge drain. The wood was OEM scrap wood "shims" used to level my Hold tank on the inner hull. Not the floor board support wood. We played hell finding the "Stink", but fixed it.

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AC condensate drains...

My AC , that is higher than the cabin deck, has a OEM drain hose on the pan, that goes directly to the Main Bilge Pump area. Since our boats were both 1997 hulls, I suspect the units are MarineAirrrr.
That cheap metal drain pan usually contains nearly "distilled" water which will corrode the pan with age.

I suspect you have a hole in your drain pan, otherwise you would have found rotted wood long ago.

Or...
Some flaked metal/crap has plugged your pan drain line and is overflowing.
______
I have repaired "rotted wood" supports/structures and actually increased the strength of the original wood.
Jim...

 

[Rick D]

I have had mine out several times but don't have AC. As I recall, the compressors are not mounted to the floorboard itself. It was easy IF you have someone else helping to lift the seat frame.

PS When you are in there, remove and reseal the water tank cover screws.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Rick,

Do you know where all of the screws are located? I see three screws along the edge of the board by the removable bilge boards, but I would expect that there are more that go into the floor board thru the edge of the seat frame support on the inside. I am just wondering if you have found some "hidden" screws.

 

[Rick D]

Rich, it was a while ago, so I don't remember clearly. I recall they were along the seat frame. I vaguely remember one not so obvious but that's about it. Sorry I couldn't be helpful.

 

[Bill Roosa]

All the hidden screws can be accessed (accessed is probably not the most accurate word for it) through the galley doors that access the trash can. Pull out the lower drawers for a better look. there are 2 sole boards under the galley. The one under the trash and the one under the sink. the one you stand on while at the sink ends right after it enters under the galley. Your concept on how to remove the "trash can" sole board is correct, slide it forward.
the A/C drain is directly from the condensate pan through a 1" long pipe straight down to the bilge. Just find the hole in the condensate pan forward starboard corner. Mine had a tube on it but don't think that was OEM

 

[artboas]

All the hidden screws can be accessed (accessed is probably not the most accurate word for it) through the galley doors that access the trash can. Pull out the lower drawers for a better look. there are 2 sole boards under the galley. The one under the trash and the one under the sink. the one you stand on while at the sink ends right after it enters under the galley. Your concept on how to remove the "trash can" sole board is correct, slide it forward.
the A/C drain is directly from the condensate pan through a 1" long pipe straight down to the bilge. Just find the hole in the condensate pan forward starboard corner. Mine had a tube on it but don't think that was OEM

Been awhile, but I had all my floor out for a complete refinish. There are lots of screws. Make photos of where you took them out of, or you will have some left over.

 

[Karl13265]

Rich, was aboard the boat today winterizing and checked on the screws for the floor. Mine was screwed down along the inside edge of the fiberglass seat support, the water heater was screwed to the floor as well as the fridge/freezer compressor and the air conditioner unit

 

[Rich Stidger]

Thanks, Karl. I suspected as much. I will be prepared to do battle at my covering after I am hauled.

 

[Karl13265]

It shouldn't be too bad, I found what I think are the majority. The hot water heater is on a separate piece of sole but the remainder is what appears to be one piece on our 1995. the starboard side is a bit of a pain as well, as you have to dismantle the corner molding on the nav seat to allow the floor to slide toward the bow enough to clear the nav seat and then be able to tilt the panel.

I'm still doing battle with the sea hood on the fore deck. I still have two long screws that hold the traveller to the coach roof that will not come out. I've broken off two hand held impact driver bits trying to dislodge them, I believe their bedded in 5200 as well as a salt bond between the stainless bolts/screws and the aluminum traveller body. Any suggestions?

 

[David Knauer]

Rich,
I have had that floorboard out to get to the water tank on the port side below the sole. I remember it to be not very difficult. My wife and I did it in an afternoon when the boat was on the hard.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Update: I pulled out the port floorboard this weekend. Seven screws to the floor pan and the A/C and refrigeration units were not attached to the floorboard. I was able to pull and then pry out the board. The water damage could also be from the port water tank- I will test it in the spring. It can still be from the A/C unit and I will also evaluate that possibility.
In any event I will attempt to repair and refinish the floorboard and failing that attempt I will replace.

 

[Karl13265]

Rich, the portion of sole that you lifted looks exactly like mine did on the starboard side right over the water tank. Someone prior to my owing the boat had taken the top off the water tank and made a poor attempt at rebidding the top and screws. The tank leaked like a wicker basket and has affected the sole to the point of no repair. I'm looking at replacing the entire sole with Lonseal due to the wicked high price of 3/4" teak and holly in my area. BTW I finally got the Seahood off after hiring a welder to come out and weld stainless nuts to the flush bolts on the traveller that were seized in place. Have the hood at home now, SOB is so saturated in the core that it must weigh 75 lbs at a minimum. Pictures to follow on the repair work to recore.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Karl,
I re-cored my organizer cover, the one in front of your hood. Check out: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/h40-5-line-organizer-repair.179429/#post-1299033

I also have a complete photo essay on all of the steps. If you like I can send it to you. I have sources for all of the material too, but you probably have local sources.

 

[Karl13265]

Rich,
Will take and send photos of my seahood. Have and will continue to follow your materials and source lists.

 

[Downtown Dan]

Rick,
Same exact problem here. Hot water tank leaking and both water tanks. They ruined the floor. Stopped the leaks and making new floor panels.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Rick,
Same exact problem here. Hot water tank leaking and both water tanks. They ruined the floor. Stopped the leaks and making new floor panels.View attachment 144913 View attachment 144914 View attachment 144915

Where did you source the plywood for the new panels? Was the match to the existing panels good?
Your damage was much more severe than mine. I am hopeful to re-glue my floorboard and re-finish the darkened area from my leak. But If I have to replace the panel I want to be sure it has a good match.

 

[Downtown Dan]

http://world-panel-products-inc.business.site
$250 per 4x8 marine grade plywood with the vinear on top. I have someone helping with that because I'm not a carpenter. All the 40.5 are so similar with the problems. I don't post much but have fixed most of my issue by reading here. Almost extended cruse ready.