1996 Hunter 280 stanchion rebedding

[Jason F]

I just purchased a 280 with a few leaks. The surveyor indicated that 25% of the stanchions leaked. Wanting to be proactive I bought butyl tape to rebed them. Then I took possession of the boat. I crawled in to get at the backing plates and promptly discovered the inner plastic "lining" covers the hull and deck. Can't even see backing plates let alone get at them. I've rebedded hardware in the past but am now stumped. I chatted with a few folks and they indicated on this model the backing plates are actually glasses in. Can someone confirm or deny this and maybe shed a little light on the best way to rebed said stanchions please? It doesn't appear the butyl will work because of the twisting of the bolt/screw.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Doing a comparison between your '96 280 and my "99 310, you'll find that the plates are glassed into the toe rail, and whatever other etcetras. They're 3/8" thick aluminum plates and the SS machine screws cut their own threads into the plate as they're driven home. You can see this can cause problems.

I've taken one out of a stanchion before as slick as you like. I took two out of a forward cleat and they were galled in place. Tore up the alum. plate removing them. Had to drill out the glassed in plate and make a backing plate of 1/4" alum. Mounted it inside the hull. Fortunately it was in an open spot in the V berth.

Really got to take this one slow to save the glassed in plate. If you do chew up the alum. plate, you may be able to use a machine screw, one size larger .

 

[Hydro Therapy]

It may work. Really nothing to lose since it's already leaking. If your able to unscrew the bolts partially. I would finger roll thin pieces of the tape. Wrap it around the bolts, under the bases. Push the base down on the deck and tighten the bolts. Definitely not the best way but it may be your only choice.

I recently used butyl tape to rebed a bow cleat. I tightened the nuts while my wife held the bolts in place with a screwdriver. She had a difficult time and I ended up turned the bolts a few rotations. Even though the bolts turned the cleat no longer leaks.

 

[Jason F]

Thank you for the info. The surveyor didn't specify which stanchions were leaking and I could't see active leaks so I think I'll do a couple of other projects first..... ones that have active leaks. The starboard window and the front hatch are mini waterfalls. I have Dow 795 silicone based beading sealer and am planning on using that unless anyone has a better idea. I saw a post on that so will head over there to see if anyone else has tidbits of knowledge to add.
Again, thanks for the insight.
Jason

 

[Zipperpi]

Jason, please let me know how things work out. I recently acquired a 280 as well. Having the same issue with the stanchions and I fear the chain plates as well.

 

[jssailem]

Look at Butyl tape for a great caulking/sealing material for your stanchion leaks.

You'll find the info here.
https://marinehowto.com/

 

[Jason F]

I found out that it wasn't the stations or the chain plates that were leaking. It was the large port and starboard lights as well as the jib halyard track. I pulled the lights off and resealed them with Dow 795. I sealed the forward hatch and track with Boat Life Life Seal. The stations actually have the backing plates glassed into the deck. Fortunately I didn't have to re-bed those. For now all is tight and dry.

 

[jssailem]

Water leaks are tricky things Jason. Glad you found your answer.

 

[Zipperpi]

Good news. I re-bed my forward hatch this past weekend and will take a look at doing the same for the tracks. Are the big port and starboard lights you mentioned the plexi windows?

 

[Jason F]

The port and starboard lights are plexi. And it was the forward hatch I redid. Also one other think. I still had leaks after re-bedding the track. It appears that both starboard and port grab rails are leaking. I have them off and am letting the deck dry. I'll post the results after I put them back on.