1990 Hunter 23 (wing keel) Restoration

isaksp00 · Jul 20, 2015

Dave's description matches mine exactly. Though (and I am not at the boat) the loop to which you tie the reefing line may be in the track on the bottom side of the boom rather than riveted to its side.

Using a small swivel block at the bottom end of the topping lift (set so it is about 2 or 3 feet above the boom when the boom is level) helps 1) raise and lower the boom and 2) lets you remove the boom from the topping lift more easily. The line that goes through the block routes into the boom at the front end through one of the 3 sheaves (through the jam cleat up there), then through the boom to the aft end, through the matching turning sheave at the aft end, up to and through that swivel block, then down to be tied to the "bar" above the turning sheave. The mechanical advantage from that block is useful. End of season, you just untie the line from the "bar" and pull out from the block, leaving the topping lift itself attached to the mast crane.

Crazy Dave Condon · Jul 20, 2015

reefing;

I need to talk with you as there use to be three lines in the original configuration.. It looks that maybe the one line in the bottom photo may be larger. Is it for reefing or not. send me your phone number and I will call and try to walk you thru this. I do not have any diagrams but it would help you for the two of us to talk.

isaksp00 · Jul 21, 2015

The red flecked line must be the outhaul, as I can see it is attached to the main's clew. The other one is probably the reefing line. The unused sheave would be for the topping lift.

I don't know how the 23 was rigged by the factory, but from other comments I assume the topping lift was one long line from the mast crane down to the sheave at the boom's aft end, then through the inside of the boom and out the front of the boom through the sheave and jam cleat. That would mean you have to pull that line out of the boom before you remove the boom so you can lower the mast (assuming you do have to lower it at the end of the season). And more to the point, thread it back in when you next launch, using a fish tape or similar.

You should be able to use either a thin wire rope (like maybe 1/16 stainless) that you can get at any big box store, or maybe thin braided line (not too stretchy). Use cable clamps (or eyes if line) and if desired thimbles at each end, the length being from the mast crane to about 3 feet above the boom end when it is level. Shackle a small swivel block to the loop at the bottom end, and use the center clevis pin on the crane to attach the loop to the top. Run a line (does not have to be too stout, as it only holds the weight of the boom end) into the unused sheave at the front of the boom, through the boom, and out the sheave at the rear (obviously the same side in each case). Run that up to and through the swivel block, then back down and tie with a bowline to the "bar" just above the sheave at the aft end of the boom.

Then it is easy to raise and lower the boom by pulling on the front end of the adjustment line, as the block gives you 2 to 1 advantage. When you unmast, just untie the line from the "bar" and pull out of the swivel block, but leave it in the boom. The wire or line can stay attached to the mast crane all the time, but of course if you find it easier to stow the mast without it there, you can unpin it.

Crazy Dave Condon · Jul 22, 2015

You want a topping lift on that boat or when the sail comes down, so does the boom and possibly someone getting hurt or damage to the boat.

isaksp00 · Jul 22, 2015

+1 to what Dave said. Technically, you don't need the topping lift "to be sailed" - it ought to be a bit loose (hence, the line that lets you adjust it) when the main is up, and the main ought to support the boom. But without it, the boom hangs down in the cockpit when you lower the main.

Chris14830 · Jul 22, 2015

Hi, Here's some pictures of my Hunter 23. It seems to have different castings than yours, but may help. First is the mast head, taken with a 500 mm lens! Love that image stabilizer.

The topping lift is the black rope, and as mentioned comes down to the aft end of the boom, then inside the boom, and out at the gooseneck on the port side. The reef out-haul is on the starboard side. Both these have jam cleats, though I have mine led aft to clam cleats on the coach top. In the center is the regular outhaul, which I believe has a block and tackle inside the boom.

I used 5/16 polyester rope for everything, I think, including halyards, seems to work fine. The topping lift is somewhat essential when dropping the main as mentioned, and also handy for raising the boom a bit to put a bit of twist in the main for light air days, if you race. I used a Halyard hitch at the mast head:
http://www.animatedknots.com/halyar...ge=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
-Chris

Chris14830 · Jul 23, 2015

Reefing said:
This is great, so what it comes down to is that the Topping lift could be just a simple line or a cable attached to shackles for ease of disconnection or a combination of the two.

Thank you again!

Not quite, it's easier than that. The topping lift stays connected while sailing, just loosened enough that it hangs a bit looser than the leach (back edge) of the main.

Stock setup has the main halyard cleat at the base of the mast, so after the main is raised and cleated, you just reach over to the topping lift jam cleat and release it. You can see the release lever in my second picture, coming down just below the word "lift" (I hope your hardware is similar). Easy breezy! Reverse the procedure for dropping the main.

On my boat I have added hardware so the halyards and topping lift are accessed from the cockpit, but doing the same from the base of the mast while someone steers the boat works very well.

Its great to hear your progress, keep up the good work and keep us informed!
-Chris

isaksp00 · Jul 23, 2015

You have different fittings than mine (which is a 91 hull), such as the gooseneck, but the principle is identical - they just have a somewhat different shape. Mine has three jam cleats at the fore end of the boom (that look a bit different, but so what), and also (obviously) three sheaves at the aft end. My mast crane looks just like Reefing's, so I suspect his fittings may be more like mine.
Peter

sailorjeff · Jul 23, 2015

isaksp00 said:
I looked at mine yesterday - the braided nylon line is the main halyard.

The middle clevis pin is for the topping lift, but the topping lift line is not shown in your photo. Depending on what type of topping lift you have (it may be wire, it may be thin diameter rope) the top is attached using that middle clevis pin. Mine happens to be wire rope (prob about 1/16) clamped around a thimble, and the pin goes through the thimble.

Summary:
The aftmost fitting on the crane is the backstay (it almost looks like a rod in your photo).
The middle fitting (pin) is where you will attach your topping lift.
The braided nylon line going through the sheave is the main halyard.

My 89 has a topping lift tied to the aft of the masthead and connected to the end of the boom. The 3 lines in the boom are used for: outhaul, reef 1 and reef 2. The middle clevis pin is for the backstay. Now I have to go see if that topping lift interferes with the backstay?

isaksp00 · Jul 24, 2015

I would assume the topping lift must wrap around the backstay at some place, maybe up near the top.

If you look at Reefing's photo of the crane, the backstay has a swaged fitting that must be in that aft "hole" - like mine. Chris's photo is a different style, where both the stay and topping lift attach with clevis pins - hence the ability to reverse them.

isaksp00 · Jul 27, 2015

I'd add a second hose clamp to each end of the hose draining the cockpit to the thruhull.
Peter

Crazy Dave Condon · Jul 28, 2015

Reefing;

There are areas in the grid system of the boat you cannot get to unless drilling holes as water has collected underneath. Please refer to earlier posts to finding topside leaks using soapy water with brush and leaf blower wherein you are pressurizing the cabin to find air bubbling out which is indicative of water leaks. The only way to find leaks below the water line is to put the boat in the water or the last and least suggestion I heard is to fill up the inside with water. I do not suggest the later. However, the only places for water to come in thru the hull that is in the water are several to include lower rudder gudgeon on transom, keel bolts, thru hulls for example depth and knot meters. I think that covers it.

isaksp00 · Aug 13, 2015

The outer (or upper, if you prefer) shroud goes to the outside hole of the chain plate - that is the shroud that comes from near the top of the mast and to the spreader tip. The inner shroud goes to the inner hole.

I don't seem to have any block inside my boom. I was able to use a standard fish tape to get my topping lift line through. If you mean the sheaves at the mast end of the boom (there are 3, above the jam cleats) and you can't get the tape through there, try from the other end and then use something to grab and yank the line through the opening above the sheave. I don't recall that the opening is that small on mine.

inarathree · Aug 13, 2015

the outboard most connection point is for the main stay of the mast. the inboard of the two is for the lower shroud (the one that goes about 1/2 way up the mast).

As for fishing line through the boom, i used a 25' x 1" measuring tape. Tape the line to the end and it should have enough strength to force it through the length of the boom. Or having done this too, ran the measuring tape through the boom, then taped the new line to it and pulled it back through. Not sure if you are doing this, but taking the ends of the boom off helps too.

As for fishing a line though a mast (not that you asked), but i borrowed (what i assume is) electricians tape from the guys at work. It was a 50' piece of maybe 1/8" round fiberglass, it coiled up into about a 2-3' loop for taking home. when uncoiled it was easy to tape a new line to it and run it through the length of the mast. Mine was down when I did it. I ran a spinnaker line, coax for VHF and moved the anchor light from 1/2 way up the mast to the top with it. Like most things plan ahead I did all three of these in one weekend, so i only had to borrow the electricians tape once.

You missed sailing yesterday (Wednesday) out on the bay. Beautiful day.

1990 Hunter 23 (wing keel) Restoration

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