1990 Hunter 23 (wing keel) Restoration

[Reefing]

Hi Hunter Forum, after 2 years of waiting i finally got my H23 still parked in the same boat yard. At that time i was able to take some measures (raising the bow, emptying the bilge, etc) and from what i was able to check it made a difference and the boat in still relatively dry inside and the keel bolts are still clean and shiny. Although i foresee it being a big (first for me) project i think the vessel is still in good shape and the repairs will hopefully be mostly cosmetic, the trailer, and of course the rigging. With that said i will greatly appreciate any lessons learned, guidance, recommendations, order to start this project.

In addition if there is any member in the Clearwater/Tampa Bay Region that is willing to teach/coach it will be greatly appreciated. Lastly being new to sailing i will be very grateful if anybody that needed a mate I would be willing to consider me so that i can learn from a seasoned sailor.

Attached are some of the pictures including one of the keel that i will like the groups opinion. There appears to be a small gap between the keel and hull but IMO should be able to be sealed with not complications.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

The keel is a cast iron keel bolted to the bottom of the hull. In between is 5200 marine sealant which is not only a sealant but holds fast the keel to the hull. If the boat is in the water and you do not see any water coming thru around the keel bolts inside, the seal is holding fast. You can clean out a little and reinstall new 5200 on the outside and when dry in 5-7 days, paint over it.

 

[hawk232]

have fun with the project reefing!! I just completely rebuild my C22, just finished it up yesterday. I am 1.5-2hrs north of you but I sail mostly singlehand, so I can always use crew. I usually sail lake harris in leesburg, but will soon be trying out Yankeetown and the gulf. maiden voyage will be this Saturday! let me know if you are interested.

 

[Reefing]

Thank you Crazy Dave, that was my plan after following your recommendation of brushing the keel, acetone and some acrylic then sand it, paint it... That i saw on another post. Do you have the name of the anti rust paint i should use. What comes to mind is this thick brick red color paint but i do not know its name.

 

[sailorjeff]

My H23 sat out for 9+ years before I bought it. To clean the topsides and hull I started with $20 in quarters at the car wash, then comet cleanser and a scrubbie. Now I'm compounding and starting to see a reflection. The boat is a joy to sail so well worth the effort. Fair winds!

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

If it states zinc chromate on the can, that is the ticket.

 

[pateco]

Congratulations Reefing,

She doesn't look too bad. Just invest your sweat equity, and you should have a fun boat in no time. Keep us up to date on your progress. More pictures please. We are still restoring our H31, and love to see other peoples projects.

 

[cmiles3]

I use a bleach/water solution to clean the decks. Spray liberally with a hand pump sprayer, let it sit a while, then rinse it off. Stubbon spots may need attention with a brush. If the deck & cockpit are chalking, a brush & a rinse with water will improve it.

 

[Reefing]

Thank you all for the encouragement and guidance. I do plan to keep updating this thread as often as possible and will likely have many questions in the meantime. I know this is early in the process but i was wondering if a short shaft engine will work with the original motor mount.

Happy mothers day to all,

Have a great week.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Reefing;

FRom all of us, feel free to pick our cotton pickin brains. You will find a valuable source of information here or in the archives. Also look under boat information for your boat and see the information ie. any owners manual on the boat as well. Take care

 

[Chris14830]

snip
I know this is early in the process but i was wondering if a short shaft engine will work with the original motor mount.
snip

I tried a regular shaft motor once, it worked in a pinch, but it meant no motor sailing on a port tack, or in large waves. So basically I'd say no.

Your boat actually looks pretty good, too bad about the water damage inside, but some sanding, or perhaps cutting the table shorter may do the trick. For the outside wood I've recently started using Sikkens SRD Natural (siding rails deck). Its a one step, quite different from the regular Sikkens. It doesn't last really long (2 seasons here up north), but is really easy to brush or light sand for a recoat. I like the golden tint it gives the wood, YMMV.

I've used a bit of oxi-clean on the deck before pressure washing. Not as effective as bleach, but not as nasty.

Great project, keep us posted!
-Chris

 

[Paladin27]

Depends where you are going to sail, in an inland lake where you don't get big conditions, probably would be fine with a short shaft. But if you are going into any conditions over 2 to 3' wave height, you really want the longest shaft you can get. L or XL even. Even with the long shaft, I still have it pop out when I'm in bigger waves, it's really aggravating when you are trying to return into harbor in 6' waves and the engine pops out when you crest every wave.

I actually replaced the OEM Hunter engine mount with a Garelick mount and when I attached it, I set it so the lowest position is a couple inches lower than the OEM mount was, that helped a little also. Of course, the lower you put the engine, the more you have to reach over the transom to lift and operate... hence the longer the shaft, the better it works.

I should record the motor in big waves sometime.... run run run run WHIIIIIIIIIRRR run run run run WHIIIIIIIRRR run run run.... you get the picture

 

[C Jones]

Good job!

 

[isaksp00]

I'd go for the long shaft if you can.

Like mine, yours had filled with water up to the line on the table. Check all the bulkheads in the storage areas inside, and make sure you crawl back into the storage under the cockpit to check the wood bulkheads in there. Some may have delaminated. Also look at the bulkheads that the side chainplates are attached to - mine had some rot, and one actually cracked under load. Make sure the chainplate covers are well sealed and rebed if needed (I used butyl rubber strips). I was never able to get the darkened color fully out of the teak, despite some light sanding and use of teak cleaner and oil. Check the hose in the anchor locker and also the one from the cockpit drain to the through-hull on the transom - cracks or leaks or looseness there could sink you.

 

[MIKEHUNT23]

I use a bleach/water solution to clean the decks. Spray liberally with a hand pump sprayer, let it sit a while, then rinse it off. Stubbon spots may need attention with a brush. If the deck & cockpit are chalking, a brush & a rinse with water will improve it.

For stubborn spots on rubberized deck, Brake cleaner and scrub pad work well. Careful if painted!!! Fluid will eat the paint!!!

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

On the 23, not the 23.5 water ballast, I would too suggest the long shaft or you will in waves hear whirr whirr whirrr

 

[inarathree]

In addition if there is any member in the Clearwater/Tampa Bay Region that is willing to teach/coach it will be greatly appreciated. Lastly being new to sailing i will be very grateful if anybody that needed a mate I would be willing to consider me so that i can learn from a seasoned sailor.

While I didn't have a H23, I did have the H22 (which was sold last November), but more to your question, I live in Palm Harbor, and work in St Pete. I would be happy to help you anyway I can. PM me with any question you have.

Regards,
MC

 

[Reefing]

While I didn't have a H23, I did have the H22 (which was sold last November), but more to your question, I live in Palm Harbor, and work in St Pete. I would be happy to help you anyway I can. PM me with any question you have. Regards, MC

My apologies for the delayed response. I am working from the keel up and being a big guy it has been very difficult to do it on the trailer. In any case once i get to the more forgiving projects i will contact you as i think an experienced sailors input in raising the mast will be invaluable.
Btw, i am in the feather sound area and the boat is stored not to far from 19.

 

[Reefing]

Hi group, hope are well. I am finding myself stock with the project becuse i can't seem to find a safe way of raising The keel enough to finish grinding it and painting it. I will preffer not to have to purchase the boat stands and thought of purchasing some relatively inexpensive but sturdy (~1k lbs capacity) saw horse to fit under the boat while working under the keel. This is intended to last no more than 3-6hrs while the paint dries. My sencondary idea, once lifted is to either strap the boat to the trailer (i know i will be adding counter pressure to the point of the saw horse and the hull, or bracing the rubrails with a 2x4 on each side to prevent the boat from tipping.

Does anybody see major issues with this plan. Alternatively, since i need to raise the boat about 6-8" i could purchase a floor jact with a horizontal extension and adding 2-3 4x4s distributing the weight and treating the keel as a flat tire and doing the work on each side.

Looking forward to your opinions.
Thank you.

 

[inarathree]

You know several of the yards in St Pete will charge you a "lunch" rate to lift your boat off your trailer with straps so you can do quick lunch hour repairs and inspections. Call the marinas along Gandy or around the salt creek area of StP. They should be able to help with something quick or over night. Bargain with them. Tell them how much you want to pay, like - "hey for $40, can you lift my boat so i can paint a couple spots during your lunch break".