1985 Hunter 34 Whats good/Bad?
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Phillip...
One of the biggest concerns with an '84 or newer H34 is the leaking of the mast base causing the crossbeam and compression post incased in the teak framing to get rotten. You'll know this by compression cracks in the overhead crossbeam that the forward cabin bulkheads are attached to. Look for it on the head side at the top of compression post covering at the head door hinge. If it's all crunched in, you have a problem to deal with.
Second concern are opening and fixed port bedding failures causing leaking into the interior and rotting the plywood between the inner and outer cabin glasswork. Many of us are going through the rebedding/replacing/repairing processs now as these boats are a quarter century old.
Beyond that, almost all problems with the H34 are smaller, well documented on this forum, and many owner solutions available for almost all of them.
Get a good survey done and pay attention to what may be pointed out as critical items. Rely on this forum for experience in dealing with the results if beyond your own experience. Check out the Owner Modifications for this model on another portion of this site as well.
This is a great boat and one well supported by many owners contributing to the body of knowledge about it on this forum.
Good luck and fair winds!
One of the biggest concerns with an '84 or newer H34 is the leaking of the mast base causing the crossbeam and compression post incased in the teak framing to get rotten. You'll know this by compression cracks in the overhead crossbeam that the forward cabin bulkheads are attached to. Look for it on the head side at the top of compression post covering at the head door hinge. If it's all crunched in, you have a problem to deal with.
Second concern are opening and fixed port bedding failures causing leaking into the interior and rotting the plywood between the inner and outer cabin glasswork. Many of us are going through the rebedding/replacing/repairing processs now as these boats are a quarter century old.
Beyond that, almost all problems with the H34 are smaller, well documented on this forum, and many owner solutions available for almost all of them.
Get a good survey done and pay attention to what may be pointed out as critical items. Rely on this forum for experience in dealing with the results if beyond your own experience. Check out the Owner Modifications for this model on another portion of this site as well.
This is a great boat and one well supported by many owners contributing to the body of knowledge about it on this forum.
Good luck and fair winds!
Hello, Phillip.. Lots of stuff has been kicked around on this forum concerning strengths and weaknesses of the design. my memory list...
PRO: spacious, quick, comfortable, pretty good usable layout. pretty good storage.. pretty good tankage, both water and fuel.. handles well.. good group of guys here with experience. Lotsa bang for the buck... excellent engine and pretty good service access.. great galley..
CON: a bit tender, mast support post/beam rot. battery location is awful.. Fixed port frames (the plastic ones) are terrible and hard to replace .. cast iron keel can be a maintenance problem.. no fuel gauge.. rain water leakage in from companionway slider..
I bought my '85 model in '91 so she and I have come to terms! Yes, I will keep her.
Ahhhhh Dan beat me to it.. so I am echoing..
PRO: spacious, quick, comfortable, pretty good usable layout. pretty good storage.. pretty good tankage, both water and fuel.. handles well.. good group of guys here with experience. Lotsa bang for the buck... excellent engine and pretty good service access.. great galley..
CON: a bit tender, mast support post/beam rot. battery location is awful.. Fixed port frames (the plastic ones) are terrible and hard to replace .. cast iron keel can be a maintenance problem.. no fuel gauge.. rain water leakage in from companionway slider..
I bought my '85 model in '91 so she and I have come to terms! Yes, I will keep her.
Ahhhhh Dan beat me to it.. so I am echoing..
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Phillip:
It was a very popular model and had similar issues as the H'31.
I suggest that you take a look at the owners reviews for both the 31 & 34.
The only other suggestion (besides the ones listed above) is to check the struts for the chain plates. There has been a few failures of these in the last couple of years. It is the stainless rod that connects to the liner.
The problem with the water intrusion thru the companionway can be taken care of with a cover. If you have a dodger, this is somewhat less of a problem.
Be sure to get a survey, and someone that has experience with these older Hunters is a big plus.
It was a very popular model and had similar issues as the H'31.
I suggest that you take a look at the owners reviews for both the 31 & 34.
The only other suggestion (besides the ones listed above) is to check the struts for the chain plates. There has been a few failures of these in the last couple of years. It is the stainless rod that connects to the liner.
The problem with the water intrusion thru the companionway can be taken care of with a cover. If you have a dodger, this is somewhat less of a problem.
Be sure to get a survey, and someone that has experience with these older Hunters is a big plus.
Phillip,
Yes, what Dan, Claude and Steve said. We bought ours new in 1985. Still dialing it in. All the issues are pretty easy to fix even by a do it yourselfer. The forums have documented various fixes for all the issues. The bilge needs opening up also just so it can be kept completely dry. Very easy fix too. When going through the boat perform the sniff test. If it is a bit musty, then opening up the bottom of the bilge (actually a sump) and change the hoses to/from the holding tank will clear that up. Keeping the little hatch over the head/shower will provided the ventilation required to keep it fresh inside.
What's good? Lots of room for a 34 footer. I really like the large lazarette in the back. Tons of storage there that isn't on the open transom designs. The transverse dinette is great because there is still clear access fore and aft while people are seated. We are fine with the icebox. 60 lbs of block ice, a few bags of cubes and it lasts with 9 days of food. The nonpressurized Origo stove/oven works well too. When you run out of hot water, just hoist the solar shower above the deck with a jib halyard and run the hose down into the head.
We're off to Monterey for a week in July. This makes the 12th time we've done that...it does well on the ocean...as well as can be expected on a beamy fin keeled boat. Go with the deep keel for maximum stability.
Good luck.
Allan
Yes, what Dan, Claude and Steve said. We bought ours new in 1985. Still dialing it in. All the issues are pretty easy to fix even by a do it yourselfer. The forums have documented various fixes for all the issues. The bilge needs opening up also just so it can be kept completely dry. Very easy fix too. When going through the boat perform the sniff test. If it is a bit musty, then opening up the bottom of the bilge (actually a sump) and change the hoses to/from the holding tank will clear that up. Keeping the little hatch over the head/shower will provided the ventilation required to keep it fresh inside.
What's good? Lots of room for a 34 footer. I really like the large lazarette in the back. Tons of storage there that isn't on the open transom designs. The transverse dinette is great because there is still clear access fore and aft while people are seated. We are fine with the icebox. 60 lbs of block ice, a few bags of cubes and it lasts with 9 days of food. The nonpressurized Origo stove/oven works well too. When you run out of hot water, just hoist the solar shower above the deck with a jib halyard and run the hose down into the head.
We're off to Monterey for a week in July. This makes the 12th time we've done that...it does well on the ocean...as well as can be expected on a beamy fin keeled boat. Go with the deep keel for maximum stability.
Good luck.
Allan
Pretty sure they are solid. I pulled my seacocks and they were solid there and quite thick.
I just bought a Hunter 34 this spring and moor it up at the Great Lakes Naval base. I'm happy to help if you like. Are you looking that the new H34 listing up in Racine? I know of a nice H31 up in Racine as well that I almost bought.
Larry
I just bought a Hunter 34 this spring and moor it up at the Great Lakes Naval base. I'm happy to help if you like. Are you looking that the new H34 listing up in Racine? I know of a nice H31 up in Racine as well that I almost bought.
Larry
I bought my 1984 – 34’ about 5 years ago and am very happy. It was the largest and most spacious size boat I could find without having to go into debt to own. All the problems mentioned above are well documented on this website. I’ll second the need to look closely at the ports, and windows for prolonged leaks. My top sliding hatch still leaks, but I added some wood trim and calk and got it down to a minuscule drip in only the heaviest of rains. I was lucky that my compression post was not an issue. If you are handy and don’t mind doing the work, you can turn this almost 30 years old boat into something really nice. The engine on mine purrs like a kitten and the boat sails fast, handles well, has lots of room, and everything is fairly accessible. Look at as many 34’s as you can find on the market before you buy. I looked at 6 different 34’s before I settled on the one I bought. Find the best one of the bunch, make an offer, and get a good survey. I was able to knock three times the cost of my survey off my offer price, just by bringing the problems outlined in the survey to the attention of the seller. Also, make sure the 34 you buy is ready to sail from day one and get out on the water and enjoy. You can start doing upgrades over time and just keep working at it. I will say this, everything takes twice a long and costs twice as much when you start doing major repairs on older boats. But I look at it this way, the money I’ve spent doing upgrades and repairs is less then I would have spent in interest if I bought a newer 30 foot boat that had to be financed.
Phillip:
I don't think that any of the Hunters have cored hulls below the water line. The H'34 is solid glass below the water line.
I don't think that any of the Hunters have cored hulls below the water line. The H'34 is solid glass below the water line.
Steve's right...
The hulls are solid glass to the flange. There's plywood coring in the deck, cabin walls & cockpit floor. Keeping all penetrations water tight is the secret of longevity on these boats.
Check out listings on Yachtworld or other sites for brokereage to get a look at what's available and in what condition.
The hulls are solid glass to the flange. There's plywood coring in the deck, cabin walls & cockpit floor. Keeping all penetrations water tight is the secret of longevity on these boats.
Check out listings on Yachtworld or other sites for brokereage to get a look at what's available and in what condition.
Has anyone else had the experience with the 34 that it rounds up hard to weather in a moderate swell, frequently more than can be fought off with the rudder?
I am hoping some of the current owners chime in here too. I had a 1984 34 for three years that I sailed on Lake Superior, frequently in moderate swell. As long as I kept her trimmed well and reefed appropiately I did not experience this at all. The boat always handled very well.
Good luck!
I have broached my boat a couple of times running in some obscene conditions ..(35 kts, 8 foot sharp waves) but that was because we were trying to surf as fast as we could.. (showed around 12 knots at times on the GPS; the fine print says "DON'T TRY THIS WITH YOUR BOAT")..
In normal use, any wide stern'd boat will do some "wandering" when running at a slight angle to a following sea.. The wave comes in under the side of the stern and lifts and turns the boat toward the wave.. the bow digs in a little and if ya don't counter steer, she will round up.. in stiff conditions .. in moderate conditions, if you don't move the wheel, she will turn toward the wave and then as the wave passes under, she willl turn back to where you were pointing.. again, any wide transom boat will do that.. I have a lot of hours at the helm of a Sabre 38 and it drives almost exactly like my 34, except it had more speed.. (stern proportions and hull shape are very similar)
Not at all a "frequent" occurance on the 34.. Nowwwww.. Some of the earliest ones had a smaller rudder and some rumors were started about that configuration.. most if not all 34's have been fitted with the larger rudder ; most on the production line and some under warranty..
That robust stern adds speed when broad reaching.. Yes, the old 30 and 33's don't behave like that because they don't have a wide stern.. but they aren't as quick off the wind .. All compromises..
In normal use, any wide stern'd boat will do some "wandering" when running at a slight angle to a following sea.. The wave comes in under the side of the stern and lifts and turns the boat toward the wave.. the bow digs in a little and if ya don't counter steer, she will round up.. in stiff conditions .. in moderate conditions, if you don't move the wheel, she will turn toward the wave and then as the wave passes under, she willl turn back to where you were pointing.. again, any wide transom boat will do that.. I have a lot of hours at the helm of a Sabre 38 and it drives almost exactly like my 34, except it had more speed.. (stern proportions and hull shape are very similar)
Not at all a "frequent" occurance on the 34.. Nowwwww.. Some of the earliest ones had a smaller rudder and some rumors were started about that configuration.. most if not all 34's have been fitted with the larger rudder ; most on the production line and some under warranty..
That robust stern adds speed when broad reaching.. Yes, the old 30 and 33's don't behave like that because they don't have a wide stern.. but they aren't as quick off the wind .. All compromises..
J Hunter...
you didn't say what the wind condition was, what sail trim was set, what headsail size was flying, etc. There's a lot of variables to consider.
The second time I took the boat out after I bought it, I had my race team guys at the helm and winches. As I let out the 155 headsail that was on the furler, the boat heeled over hard and rounded up in a flash. Rolled it up and under main alone it was fine in about 10 to 12 knots of wind.
The original 110 was put on the next weekend and rounding up has not been a problem ever since. And I might add, the boat has the smaller rudder from the H31's. In a following quartering sea, it does tend to gyrate and hunt a bit, but once you get used to it, it becomes normal.
Use your traveler, reefing, and jib track car position to put twist into the top of the sails to lower and move forward the center of effort on the sails to reduce heeling and balance the helm.
Everything that "Kloudie" said is right-on with this boat.
you didn't say what the wind condition was, what sail trim was set, what headsail size was flying, etc. There's a lot of variables to consider.
The second time I took the boat out after I bought it, I had my race team guys at the helm and winches. As I let out the 155 headsail that was on the furler, the boat heeled over hard and rounded up in a flash. Rolled it up and under main alone it was fine in about 10 to 12 knots of wind.
The original 110 was put on the next weekend and rounding up has not been a problem ever since. And I might add, the boat has the smaller rudder from the H31's. In a following quartering sea, it does tend to gyrate and hunt a bit, but once you get used to it, it becomes normal.
Use your traveler, reefing, and jib track car position to put twist into the top of the sails to lower and move forward the center of effort on the sails to reduce heeling and balance the helm.
Everything that "Kloudie" said is right-on with this boat.
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