Sailing/Tacking at anchor

Jun 7, 2016
315
Catalina C30 Warwick, RI
On my last C30 I noticed that when anchored in high winds she would start sailing at anchor and begin tacking back and forth. Outside of just the discomfort, there is concern for chaffing and excessive wear. Have others experienced this and/or do you have any remedies to prevent/mitigate the condition?
 
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
I have had occasion to experience that. I usually wait til the boat is at the far end of it's swing, one way or the other, and drop a second anchor there, snub it short and that usually stops the hunting
 
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Apr 5, 2009
2,813
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
You can also tie your tiller or lock your wheel so that your rudder is off center and turns the boat back to one side which cuts the swing down. You might also try an anchor riding sail. Rig it from the aft stay to one side stanchion which also keeps the boat to one side of the swing.
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
@ontherocks83
This might help

PS what did you decide to do about removing the engine?

 
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Mr Fox

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Aug 31, 2017
204
Marshall 22 Portland, ME
You can also tie a line to your anchor rhode like 6-10 feet out and secure the other end to a midship or stern cleat. This keeps you at a slight angle to the wind. Works great on my catboat (and they hate sitting still) but may not be the best solution for you.
 
Apr 11, 2010
947
Hunter 38 Whitehall MI
On my last C30 I noticed that when anchored in high winds she would start sailing at anchor and begin tacking back and forth. Outside of just the discomfort, there is concern for chaffing and excessive wear. Have others experienced this and/or do you have any remedies to prevent/mitigate the condition?
try searching the archives. This question has been asked and answered many times and you will find a wealth of information in those previous threads. I use a FIN Delta anchor riding sail. Many other posters had other suggestions as well
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,414
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
Search "yawing."

Not only is there chafe...
  • Increases rode tension 50-100%.
  • reduces anchor secureity by 25-75% by inducing walking
The end result is a boat that is yawing can be 20-80% less secure.
 
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TomY

Alden Forum Moderator
Jun 22, 2004
2,759
Alden 38' Challenger yawl Rockport Harbor
I watch boats that hunt around an anchor. I think a lot of the sailing back and forth has to do with windage forward of the boats CE. That of course is why some boats use riding sails. I suspect roller furled headsails exacerbate the problem. I wonder if a smaller version of the typical riding sail might be the cure for many? I only say this because my boat, a yawl, sits like a duck at anchor without the mizzen hoisted. The reasons I'm sure is the extra windage aft in the mizzen mast and stays. As you say, in higher winds my boat will move more but I've noticed that the sailing is nothing like surrounding sloops.

The proof of this windage theory would be some cruising boats that are loaded with 'crap on de back' (a Bob Perry coined term I believe). Towers, davits, panels etc aft, do these boats stay still at anchor and point to windward like a weather vane?
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,074
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
I didn't find the riding sail to be effective; but being on the H356, where there is no backstay, it was hard to set to be as flat as it would need to be. I was using the topping lift instead of a Backstay. Since the riding sail would bello a bit on each tack I was not sure it didn't worsen the problem. I think it did dampen the violence with which the boat fetched up but I don't think it reduced the amplitude of the swing.
 
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Apr 11, 2010
947
Hunter 38 Whitehall MI
I didn't find the riding sail to be effective; but being on the H356, where there is no backstay, it was hard to set to be as flat as it would need to be.


The Banner Bay Fin Delta is designed to work without a back stay.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,414
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
I tested both V and single-luff riding sails (including the Fin Delta) for an article. The V sails are MANY times more effective.

And you don't need a back stay. The strongest and quite effective version is a diamond of cloth put over the boom. This is a Paratech idea. Very handy and dead easy, although you do need to cut the diamond to fit.

 
Dec 25, 2000
5,732
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
On my last C30 I noticed that when anchored in high winds she would start sailing at anchor and begin tacking back and forth. Outside of just the discomfort, there is concern for chaffing and excessive wear. Have others experienced this and/or do you have any remedies to prevent/mitigate the condition?
Yes. Posted an article awhile ago about my experience dealing with chafe and/or excessive wear tied to a mooring in a blow. That article here:

Departed Shelter Bay Marina last Saturday, February 18 to spend several days on the water, weather permitting. Actually the day started out pretty nice; reasonable temperature, some sun breaks, but wind on the nose what little there was. First stop was Eagle Harbor to spend the night. Quiet night tied to a mooring ball with a single 5/8th inch three strand nylon line.

Sunday morning awoke to a strong easterly, which blew into the harbor a long fetch of rolling chop. Belle-Vie rocked and rolled all day, swaying back and forth, to and fro. Over the years I've made a practice of establishing land marks whether at anchor or on a mooring. I check those landmarks periodically depending upon sea state, as well as moorings and anchor set. I also make it a practice to back down on a mooring just to make sure that it will hold.

Two hours earlier I had checked the mooring line and it appeared fine, but in a two hour time frame the mooring ring cut through the line. I was below deck in the aft cabin just finishing an article when I glanced up to check my landmark and it was not there. Dashing up on deck found Belle-Vie adrift heading for the head of the harbor's shallow waters a short distance away, I light off the engine and bring the boat back into safe water. Whew! That was a close call.


Mid Winter Cruise 172.jpg



The wind was still blowing hard and lots of heavy chop a I tried to snag the mooring. My final try that worked was to secure the eye of my long dock line to the midship cleat, approach the mooring as if approaching a dock, got the line through the ring and secured it to the bow cleat in the nick of time. Then I worked the ring forward to the bow where I was able to secure a new mooring line, then released the midship line. This time I doubled up the mooring line leaving the backup line a bit slack and the primary carrying the load.

The reason the mooring ring cut through the line was due to the old way that I used, which was to secure the eye to the port cleat and the bitter end through the ring and tied off on the starboard cleat. When the blow caused the boat to yaw, the line was sawing back and forth through the ring eventually chafing through.

So I've begun using a new mooring technique offered by Michael Davis, which is shown here in these photos. Makes more sense and would appear to minimize/eliminate abrasion caused from the boat yawing in a blow.


MooringLine.JPG


Michael was given this tip from a cruising instructor, which loops both ends of the line back to the same cleat as opposed to the way I, and most others do it, eye on one side, bitter end on the other. I did it this way because the cleat provided insufficient room for a cleat knot on the same cleat as the eye.


MooringLine2.JPG


This new arrangement will need a blow test for sure. A winter cruise report in the offing.


Mooringline4.JPG


MooringLine5.JPG
 
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Apr 5, 2009
2,813
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
I think that the idea is to have a single point where both ends of the line comes to the boat but still distribute the load across two separate cleats to reduce the load. The pressure on the chain will not cause any problems because the distance to the cleat is small so even with stretchy nylon line there will be little movement.
 
Jun 14, 2010
2,096
Robertson & Caine 2017 Leopard 40 CT
which loops both ends of the line back to the same cleat
:plus: This is the only way it should be done. I’ve seen others do it in a way that allows the sawing action as the boat swings, and offered unwelcome advise. :( Unfortunately, most of us need to learn the hard way. (My parents seemed a lot smarter when I got older).
 
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Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
We live on the hook or a mooring, we have spent less than 60 nights at a dock since 2015. Our Catalina 310 is a modern hull that will swing at anchor.

The most effective thing we have found is a bridle. For anchoring we have a bridal made of 8-foot legs with thimbles spliced in to one end and loops for cleats on the other. The thimbles are connected to a Mantus chain hook (old style). Once we get the anchor set, we attach the bridle and let out chain so the bridle is holding the boat.

On moorings, we use two lines. Each line goes through the mooring and back to its original cleat.

But when we wind kicks up and the current is none existent, you will still swing. However we have never chaffed any lines or dislodged our anchor. You get used to the motion and it isn't really noticable.

Good luck and fair winds,

Jesse
 
Dec 29, 2008
805
Treworgy 65' LOA Custom Steel Pilothouse Staysail Ketch St. Croix, Virgin Islands
You can also tie a line to your anchor rhode like 6-10 feet out and secure the other end to a midship or stern cleat. This keeps you at a slight angle to the wind.
+1 for this. As Fox says, by keeping it at an angle, it can’t really turn back the other way. Doesn’t take much of an angle.