Anchoring Issue Strategies

[Nodak7]

Ok I am certain that this has been covered previously but I will ask again. I have been fortunate and never had an issue with my anchor slipping (knock on wood) and not resetting. But I am interested in what strategies other boats have when this occurs. Do you let more rode out and hope it resets? Start the engine to relieve pressure on the anchor? Set out another anchor? Any insight would be helpful.

 

[scottdube]

What's the situation? Am I in a crowded anchorage? What is the bottom I am working with? What kind of anchor am I using? How deep is the water? How hard is the wind blowing? How hard was it to set the first time? Am I using all chain rode or is there rope? In my mind there are a lot of things that go into that decision. There are some great books written on the subject and a lot of advice from those that have done it and probably some that have not. At the end of the day your experience with your ground tackle will be the only real answer... At least these questions will give you some stuff to think about...

 

[seadaddler]

First off I don't shut motor off until I know my anchor has grabbed and my Mantus works like
magic and all chain never have any problems and sets real quick and after letting out extra I winch in
according to depth of water.
Nick

 

[shemandr]

What you do when the anchor drags, is why I think it's good to keep your anchoring system simple. For example, dealing with removing a kellet, while drifting down on another anchored boat is not a place I would like to be. Likewise with a double anchor, stern anchor or other complicated systems. I would like to be able to get the anchor up and motor to a place to re-deploy. There are good reasons to use some more complicated systems but I like the KISS rule.

 

[All U Get]

Well you must have heard me laughing as I watch boats anchor here in White Sound, Green Turtle Cay. We're on a mooring ball that has chain to a huge rock on the bottom. The bottom is weedy with soft sand sometimes thin over rock. Boats of all sizes come in, drop a tiny hook with about 20 feet of chain, and then throttle hard in reverse to pull up clumps of weeds from the bottom. After two or three attempts, they get a slip and head for the bar. We saw a 70 foot motor yacht do this for an hour, back over a mooring ball, get help tying to a different mooring ball, and then get a slip. The number of mooring balls is less every day due to attrition.

If I have room and expect higher winds, I let out more chain.

All U Get

 

[Kings Gambit]

If the anchor is dragging or slipping, then it's: 1) not set well into the bottom, or 2) is just too small for the conditions. The simple answer if (1), therefore, is to get it set properly by either: a) increasing scope, or b) picking it up and redeploying. The latter is what shemandr (post #4) is referring to, where you do NOT want to have to recover the bow anchor in an urgent situation while facing contingencies (e.g., also pulling up a stern anchor, etc.). But if you do have a stern anchor out and cannot recover it safely to deal with the bower, then cast it off with flotation attached to the rode and pick it up later. I would not choose to sit out there for long w/ my engine running to hold position unless the conditions were so threatening as to make that appear better than recovering. Here, you run a risk of sucking slack anchor rode into your prop if using nylon. Throwing out a second anchor would also be a risky action. You might end up having to pick 'em both up and they might get entangled. But if I decided to I'd probably try to deploy #2 at the limit of the boat's yaw (if still yawing) at the mid-ship cleat. Try to set it from there as the boat swings away; then work the rode up to the bow, eventually.

 

[ice breaker]

Nodak:
Glad to see you are still here! I hope retirement is treating you well.

I am sure that you will get many responses.....but the most reliable solution for me on Lake Superior is put out way more rode that you think you need. In 16 feet of water, with a windy forecast I will put out nearly 200 feet (chain and nylon). That is nearly 13 to 1 scope. Since you have a windlass, retrieving it is not much of an issue. This strategy has worked well for me in both sand and rocky bottoms. As I coach my kids," you can almost never have too much rode out."

When I first had the the boat I skimped on scope, and I did drag a few times; but putting more rode out has almost always solved the problem. An anchor drag alarm is also a good strategy.

 

[Sailm8]

I haven't drug yet but I always keep the keys in the ignition to move the boat up to retrieve and reset the anchor. I also project where I might drag to if I were to drag. Luckily most of the anchorages I frequent have a soft bottom of muck that is good holding and would result in a soft grounding. I am more concerned with someone else dragging into me.

 

[Kings Gambit]

I haven't drug yet but I always keep the keys in the ignition to move the boat up to retrieve and reset the anchor. I also project where I might drag to if I were to drag. Luckily most of the anchorages I frequent have a soft bottom of muck that is good holding and would result in a soft grounding. I am more concerned with someone else dragging into me.

Actually. this brings up the more relevant point as to the boat's preparedness to get underway on short notice. Before "turning in", which is something I don't really do when at anchor, the boat should be ready to get underway within a few minutes. The keys should be in the ignition; binoculars at the binnacle; reading glasses (if needed) close at hand; outboard on dinghy should be locked in "up" position; the deck clear fore to aft with no stray lines overboard; swim ladder up, life-line gates closed; flashlight at hand; anchor windlass switch set "on"; & etc. If you might have to get underway with the dinghy in tow, especially with the engine on, need to rig a means to pull the plug on the dink from the boat. I use the boat hook to grab the lanyard and pull it out that way. Obviously, if you're going to do that kind of thing, should have one or two spare plugs aboard.

PS--below decks should be secured as well.

 

[SFS]

All good tips, KG. I do one more thing in an UN-crowded anchorage. I write down the initial compass heading needed to get to "safety", however that might be defined in a particular situation. Too easy to forget or be hazy if awakened abruptly, and with a lot of other items needing attention quickly. Of course, in a crowded anchorage, you'd be dodging boats, but writing it down really helps re-orient you, regardless of how you've spun, or drifted, or whatever.

 

[Kings Gambit]

Most of the time where we anchor that heading is self evident--away from the rocks!! If there is fog or likely to be, then yeah--a predetermined escape heading might be needed. In FL, of course, the path out is generally not as evident b/c of the flatness of coast and shoals which cannot be seen at night abound. So writing it down is a good idea. Also, there you're more likely to be tucked up in some gunkhole off the ICW which "escaping" might require a few turns here and there.

 

[Kings Gambit]

Actually. this brings up the more relevant point as to the boat's preparedness to get underway on short notice. Before "turning in", which is something I don't really do when at anchor, the boat should be ready to get underway within a few minutes. The keys should be in the ignition; binoculars at the binnacle; reading glasses (if needed) close at hand; outboard on dinghy should be locked in "up" position; the deck clear fore to aft with no stray lines overboard; swim ladder up, life-line gates closed; flashlight at hand; anchor windlass switch set "on"; & etc. If you might have to get underway with the dinghy in tow, especially with the engine on, need to rig a means to pull the plug on the dink from the boat. I use the boat hook to grab the lanyard and pull it out that way. Obviously, if you're going to do that kind of thing, should have one or two spare plugs aboard.

PS--below decks should be secured as well.

If the anchor is dragging or pulling out because of (2) above in post #6, too small or otherwise inadequate for the task at hand, you might have to leave where ever you are and go someplace else. The best anchorages are sheltered from wind and sea, so if you cannot hold there in the one you're in, you can expect that conditions outside of it will be "uncomfortable" . With high wind there usually comes high seas. So, the boat has to be secured and ready to meet sea conditions in case you must leave in a hurry. Stuff sitting out on counter tops or on tables below, or having other "s..t" in the way, is not conducive for standing out. Regrettably, in this kind of urgency, pets aboard can be problematic b/c of the loose paraphernalia that gets strewn about for them!!

 

[Alan Gomes]

Actually. this brings up the more relevant point as to the boat's preparedness to get underway on short notice. Before "turning in", which is something I don't really do when at anchor, the boat should be ready to get underway within a few minutes.

Surely you don't mean that you yourself remain awake and on the boat 24/7 when at anchor. Do you mean that you always have someone aboard on anchor watch?

I single hand and do indeed "turn in" for the night when at anchor. But one helpful tool I use is an iPhone app called "Drag Queen." When I first drop anchor I mark the coordinates with my GPS so I know where the anchor is and, based on the amount of rode what my swinging circle should be. I program the anchor's coordinates into the Drag Queen app. Then, I set it conservatively, so if I drag, say 75' out of that circle (depending on my surroundings) the alarm will wake me up. There are other such apps besides this one, but Drag Queen is simple and works well. GPS chart plotters often can provide the same function but at a greater power draw than my little iPhone.

There is another app out there (I think it's called Anchor Watch) that goes one better. If you leave your cell phone on the boat and your anchor drags, it can phone a number to alert you. Of course, this requires you to have a second cell phone that you keep with you when ashore. I believe it can also e-mail you, though why you would want such an alert via e-mail isn't clear to me.

I certainly agree on all the other points about being ready to fire up the engine at a moment's notice should it become necessary to get out of a jam.

 

[Nodak7]

If the anchor is dragging or slipping, then it's: 1) not set well into the bottom, or 2) is just too small for the conditions. The simple answer if (1), therefore, is to get it set properly by either: a) increasing scope, or b) picking it up and redeploying. The latter is what shemandr (post #4) is referring to, where you do NOT want to have to recover the bow anchor in an urgent situation while facing contingencies (e.g., also pulling up a stern anchor, etc.). But if you do have a stern anchor out and cannot recover it safely to deal with the bower, then cast it off with flotation attached to the rode and pick it up later. I would not choose to sit out there for long w/ my engine running to hold position unless the conditions were so threatening as to make that appear better than recovering. Throwing out a second anchor would be a risky action. You might end up having to pick 'em both up and they might get entangled. But if I decided to I'd probably try to deploy #2 at the limit of the boat's yaw (if still yawing) at the mid-ship cleat. Try to set it from there as the boat swings away; then work the rode up to the bow, eventually.

Thanks King. I t

What you do when the anchor drags, is why I think it's good to keep your anchoring system simple. For example, dealing with removing a kellet, while drifting down on another anchored boat is not a place I would like to be. Likewise with a double anchor, stern anchor or other complicated systems. I would like to be able to get the anchor up and motor to a place to re-deploy. There are good reasons to use some more complicated systems but I like the KISS rule.

Interesting that you should say this King! My thoughts exactly! I try to keep my system as "clean" as possible but with a bridle and small anchor bouy I think it is complicated enough if an emergency should arise. However all could be sacrificed pretty quickly if the need arose. However the reason I am asking this is we are heading for the Bahamas in a couple of days and I have read a number of guides that say be prepared to anchor with 2 anchors because of current. I really do not want too but I am prepared too. I have never experienced a serious anchor drag (I try to let out lots of scope) but was not certain what people did other than get the motor started and take the pressure off the anchor. It seems that waiting until she is dragging is NOT a good time to throw out a second anchor. Thanks

 

[Nodak7]

Surely you don't mean that you yourself remain awake and on the boat 24/7 when at anchor. Do you mean that you always have someone aboard on anchor watch?

I single hand and do indeed "turn in" for the night when at anchor. But one helpful tool I use is an iPhone app called "Drag Queen." When I first drop anchor I mark the coordinates with my GPS so I know where the anchor is and, based on the amount of rode what my swinging circle should be. I program the anchor's coordinates into the Drag Queen app. Then, I set it conservatively, so if I drag, say 75' out of that circle (depending on my surroundings) the alarm will wake me up. There are other such apps besides this one, but Drag Queen is simple and works well. GPS chart plotters often can provide the same function but at a greater power draw than my little iPhone.

There is another app out there (I think it's called Anchor Watch) that goes one better. If you leave your cell phone on the boat and your anchor drags, it can phone a number to alert you. Of course, this requires you to have a second cell phone that you keep with you when ashore. I believe it can also e-mail you, though why you would want such an alert via e-mail isn't clear to me.

I certainly agree on all the other points about being ready to fire up the engine at a moment's notice should it become necessary to get out of a jam.

Alan I also use an App called "Anchor" by Marie Hullo and I have tested it. It will send an email to your cell phone if your boat drags out of the anchor zone. Great for when you go ashore. Additionally you can set the alarm to work with the boats position or the anchor position. I like that as well! I also use the anchor alarm in iSailor which I really like as well and has been my primary anchor alarm system.

 

[Nodak7]

If the anchor is dragging or slipping, then it's: 1) not set well into the bottom, or 2) is just too small for the conditions. The simple answer if (1), therefore, is to get it set properly by either: a) increasing scope, or b) picking it up and redeploying. The latter is what shemandr (post #4) is referring to, where you do NOT want to have to recover the bow anchor in an urgent situation while facing contingencies (e.g., also pulling up a stern anchor, etc.). But if you do have a stern anchor out and cannot recover it safely to deal with the bower, then cast it off with flotation attached to the rode and pick it up later. I would not choose to sit out there for long w/ my engine running to hold position unless the conditions were so threatening as to make that appear better than recovering. Here, you run a risk of sucking slack anchor rode into your prop if using nylon. Throwing out a second anchor would also be a risky action. You might end up having to pick 'em both up and they might get entangled. But if I decided to I'd probably try to deploy #2 at the limit of the boat's yaw (if still yawing) at the mid-ship cleat. Try to set it from there as the boat swings away; then work the rode up to the bow, eventually.

King I like that suggestion about throwing the second anchor at the mid-ship cleat at high yaw then moving it forward. Something to keep in mind in an emergency! Thanks

 

[Gunni]

Nodak;
Here is one of the best tutorials I have seen for setting a Bahamian moor in a manner that does not wrap your keel or rudder. Going to Bahama? You need to know how to set a two anchor set.

 

[Kings Gambit]

Surely you don't mean that you yourself remain awake and on the boat 24/7 when at anchor. Do you mean that you always have someone aboard on anchor watch?

I usually "sleep" if you wish to call it that, in the salon in a "facsimile" of a pilot berth, or sometimes in the cockpit if not too cold. (I like to see the stars.) "Turn in" means into the rack (quarter berth) w/ the admiral where I typically have to crawl on my knees and elbows to wiggle in or out, and bump the ol' noggin a couple of times in the process . There is no all night anchor watch.

 

[Nodak7]

Nodak;
Here is one of the best tutorials I have seen for setting a Bahamian moor in a manner that does not wrap your keel or rudder. Going to Bahama? You need to know how to set a two anchor set.

Thanks Gunni this was an awesome explanation and answered a couple of the questions that I had regarding this method of mooring.

 

[thinwater]

Lots of common tips. A few things have not been touched on:

1. Dragging because of short scope or hobby horsing. Sometimes the two combine, where the boat starts rock and pulling upwards on the anchor. More scope breaks the natural frequency and can make a huge difference. Only applicable if the water is relatively shallow and the scope <5:1.
   
2. There is no where to go. Many have emphasized the importance of leaving if you drag, but unless it is an open rode stead, this may not be much of a plan. If you are up a creek, it is raining and black, moving will not be safe. If there are rocks around (reef) same thing. In these situations you need to be certain you can stay put, no failure or "I'll just leave" option.
   
3. Two anchors (properly arranged in an asymmetric V may be a way to prevent the whole problem. Not complicated if your technique is good. It only tangles or takes long to recover if you did something wrong. I bet I've done this 100 times, most often to secure the boat for some manner of testing.
   
4. Yes, it is very practical to lower a 2nd anchor while dragging. As above, it may be your only option. Just lower to one side at the same time you ease the main at the same rate--you want them to be at different scopes to avoid fouling. This works very well if the problem is soft mud, since the first anchor is probably dragging slowly but still valid.
   
5. Get a better anchor. This shouldn't be happening. And study (really study) anchor setting. Dive on a lot of your sets. No excuses that the water is too cold--it's you that is dragging, I don't care.

The water is 40F. No big deal. (In fact, this is part of an anchor testing program, studying the effect of bump setting.)

1.