I have a 2004 Catalina 310 with the Universal M-25XPB engine. It appears I will have to loosen the heat exchanger brackets and rotate it a bit to change out the anode? It drops straight down onto the engine mounting bolt.
Heat exchanger anode
- Thread starter SV At Last
- Start date
On my c36 the anode nut screws into the HX with much shorter collar. I can unscrew and remove with no interference. If this was mine, I would remove the HX and shorten the collar. It may be possible to cut the collar and re-tap, it is NTP threading.
I think you have two challenges here:
1. Hoses
2. Type of HX support - hose clamps or built-in bracket welded to the HX
1. Hoses
2. Type of HX support - hose clamps or built-in bracket welded to the HX
Hello - I also have a 2004 Catalina with same engine and set up etc. - I've changed the anodes numerous times and although it's not a problem getting out a worn down pencil anode down, I still find that with a little wiggling the new one goes up, whilst rubbing against that mounting bolt. I think once I slid the anode up separately, and then screwed on the bolt base afterwards. Good luck!
I hadn’t thought of that. I guess I can take the end cap off to fit the anode back in the base.
Yes, give that a try if it doesn't want to wiggle up in place as BC mentioned. You could loosen the mount brackets and rotate the HX as you described, also.
Hello! I too have a 2004 C310, hull 260. I recently replaced the zinc and was able to do so with careful alignment without rotating the exchanger. I learned from this forum to use a zip lock bag under the exchanger while removing the old zinc and to have the new zinc ready for quick reinsert to avoid dumping more than a few drips of salt water into the bilge. Do not use plumbing tape or paste on the threads of the zinc holder. The holder needs a clean contact in order for the zinc to do its job. I was worried about the job and delayed doing it for a while. After accomplishing it, I realized my concern was unnecessary.
Like the zip lock bag tip! However while many caution against thread sealants serveral authors say it is fine. They advise checking with an ohmmeter. I now use a liguid sealant on all my zincs and find complete electrical continuity from the brass plug to the engine block and the zincs waste away normally.
Had the same problem ........... just cut 1/4 " off of the bolt with my sawsall. Worked out just fine.
Cheers
Cheers
if your concern is having salt water drop onto your mounts, there are a couple of options. The exchanger doesn't hold gallons of water, rather a few cups. You can use a plastic coffee canister. Loosen the the anode, hold the canister with one hand, spin out the anode and capture the water. If you are unsure of your ability to capture the water. consider inverting the canister over the mount. They cut easily with scissors, so you can form fit it.
I was able to loosen the straps on the heat exchanger and turn It just enough the change the anode. The gaskets on the ends of the heat exchanger are about 1/4 inch thick. The replacements I got are more like 1/16 inch thick. The replacement gaskets were so thin I wasn't able to fully tighten the end cover cap screw and had to reuse the thicker one. I ordered the universal part number. I guess it could be some other heat exchanger.
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My thought too, thanks. Every time I think I have everything I need for a boat project there is always a part or tool that I didn't think of.