Teak darker than expected after refinish?

Oct 18, 2021
13
J-Boat J/30 Provincetown
I recently repaired, sanded down, and varnished the sole in my forward cabin. It came out significantly darker than the original. I'm probably going to live with it, but why is it darker than the original?

I've put on 3 coats of 1015 Captain's Varnish. I plan on doing a few more rounds of sanding/varnish and then will assess how slippery it is and if I want to add some kind of traction to the last layer.

Is this a result of the varnish I used?
Or does old teak end up darker once refinished?
Could I have done something to get a better match to the original?

In the photo below the top half is the refinished sole, the bottom half in the original (nearly 40 years old).

IMG_7244.jpg
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,942
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
We have refinished 99% of the interior teak (solids and veneers) over the years. Always comes out lighter after varnishing.
Maybe you left out a step. We clean up the surface with a product called "TeKa A & B", which brings back the original golden look.
Sanded with some 150 or 320, and about five coats of Captains brand varnish. Sand with 320 between coats.

The whole look is lighter and more inviting, to us, then the OEM oiled surface was. The old oil attracts dirt and, if not kept really clean; mold, too.
We love the warmth of the wood.

Further, I recall reading that the factory interior wood in the J-30 was ash. Perhaps? The sole might be teak and holly, tho.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,321
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Different varnishes have different effects. Some are tinted which leaves a darker amber color, some are clear. More traditional varnishes, like Epifanes, have an amber tone. Not sure about Captain's Varnish as I have never used it.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Captain’s Varnish 1015 is highly regarded for its ease of application, outstanding gloss retention and tough yet flexible durability. A combination of phenolic and alkyd resins blended with tung and linseed oils provide excellent performance. It’s warm, light amber hue will enhance the rich, classic bright work appearance.

It looks to me like the more coats you apply, the darker it gets
 

DArcy

.
Feb 11, 2017
1,690
Islander Freeport 36 Ottawa
It looks really good, now you just need to refinish the rest of the boat to match :)
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
My sole is smooth as glass. No grain at all. I think it has a polyurethane finish. Very easy to clean.
 
Oct 18, 2021
13
J-Boat J/30 Provincetown
FastOlson:
I didn't use TeKa A & B or any cleaner, just sanded it down to raw wood then varnished. The OEM surface was also some kind of varnish, not oil, so perhaps the cleaner isn't necessary.

The cabinetry and handles are mostly ash on the J/30, but the sole is solid teak and holly.

Dave:
Maybe it's as simple as that, just a different varnish was originally used that wasn't as amber. But the real difference seems to be that even after the first coat my finish looked like wet wood and the original doesn't. Maybe it was polyurethane. The photo above is after the first coat of varnish, and future coats look about the same.

Regardless I agree it looks pretty good. A bit more sanding and another coat and it will be really nice. Just have to refinish the rest of the boat to make it match!

Here's what I started with!
IMG_6600.jpg


...which now that I look at this photo, maybe it was just darker wood to begin with. Who knows.
 
Oct 18, 2021
13
J-Boat J/30 Provincetown
Captain’s Varnish 1015 is highly regarded for its ease of application, outstanding gloss retention and tough yet flexible durability. A combination of phenolic and alkyd resins blended with tung and linseed oils provide excellent performance. It’s warm, light amber hue will enhance the rich, classic bright work appearance.

It looks to me like the more coats you apply, the darker it gets
Maybe the issue is I didn't use this "EZ Wood Sealer" product? Not sure what that does, I went straight for the varnish.
 
May 17, 2004
5,028
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
Maybe the issue is I didn't use this "EZ Wood Sealer" product? Not sure what that does, I went straight for the varnish.
EZ Sealer is meant to soak into the grain so the varnish has a more consistent surface and doesn’t soak in so much itself. I don’t think it affects the final color much. I’ve used Captain’s varnish (with EZ Sealer) and it came out pretty dark. Like you said, not bad, just not as light as I expected.

1637370748477.jpeg
 
May 25, 2012
4,333
john alden caravelle 42 sturgeon bay, wis
my recipe inside my boats is, if you put your feet on it or abuse it while sailing it is gloss, it's harder.
if it's vertical and or not touched much while sailing, i use a satin finish as to much gloss/glare is hard on the eye.
i'm old school. last time i redid my teak and holly floor i did 17 coats to finally fill all the pores on the wood. now every couple of seasons i put a couple of top coats on to refresh.

in the photos above, the wood shone, has open pores, big time. 10/12 more coats and they might fill.

sealer /schmealer - some short cut for the new crowd always in a hurry.
smooth , gloss, pore filled, teak has plenty of grip for my needs.

just like a PB&J. many ways to make a captain happy.:cool:

1637372685512.png


my brother
 
Last edited:
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Oct 22, 2014
20,992
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Jon..It looks like you have run your older brother through the ringer laying on the varnish...
 
May 25, 2012
4,333
john alden caravelle 42 sturgeon bay, wis
youngest of three brothers. he is a triplet. parents had three kids, went for one more, got triplets.

he is a redhead, hiding from the mid day sun.
he loves sailing at night.
 
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Nov 13, 2013
723
Catalina 34 Tacoma
Did you bleach it before varnishing?
Teak gets dark under old varnish because of mold. You need to strip the old varnish and bleach before new varnish to lighten.
 
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Jan 7, 2011
4,726
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
FastOlson:
I didn't use TeKa A & B or any cleaner, just sanded it down to raw wood then varnished. The OEM surface was also some kind of varnish, not oil, so perhaps the cleaner isn't necessary.

The cabinetry and handles are mostly ash on the J/30, but the sole is solid teak and holly.

Dave:
Maybe it's as simple as that, just a different varnish was originally used that wasn't as amber. But the real difference seems to be that even after the first coat my finish looked like wet wood and the original doesn't. Maybe it was polyurethane. The photo above is after the first coat of varnish, and future coats look about the same.

Regardless I agree it looks pretty good. A bit more sanding and another coat and it will be really nice. Just have to refinish the rest of the boat to make it match!

Here's what I started with!
View attachment 200292

...which now that I look at this photo, maybe it was just darker wood to begin with. Who knows.
Excellent work…

Now you just need to refinish the rest of the sole so it all matches!


Greg
 

dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
3,373
Belliure 41 Sailing back to the Chesapeake
Pretty sure the linseed oil in the product you applied darkens the finish. Additionally it will likely further darken over time. I recall years ago when I worked at a museum, there were wood pieces that had been finished with linseed oil that were black. The black had been achieved by the passage of time and having been treated with linseed oil.

dj
 
Oct 18, 2021
13
J-Boat J/30 Provincetown
Sounds like the consensus is I needed to use some kind of cleaning product after stripping the old varnish (bleach or a commercial product like TeKa A & B) and then use a different varnish to achieve a lighter look.