HUNTER 320 ENGINE ROOM.

skipperclaud

skipperclaud

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Oct 24, 2011
27
Hunter 320 Fort lauderdale
Dear friends, I am the happy owner of a Hunter 320, 2001, the Dua Jazz, this boat is all refit, as bells and whistles brand new. But the engine. still original,
I was inspecting and cleaning the engine room which I decided to repaint it and preventively change the Yanmar 2GM20 mounts when I saw that the connection between the axle and the Gearbox is weirdly low and the former owner or the factory cut the fibreglass to allow the wheel to spin without touching the floor. Have you guys seen something like this before? Of course, I will make it looks new but how does it come from the factory? Can someone help me out?
Please look at the pictures.
thank you in advance.
Claudio
 

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31seahorse

31seahorse

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Aug 2, 2005
1,155
Pearson 33-2 & Typhoon 18 Seneca Lake
Hello skipperclaud,

Is there an Allen set screw in the threaded hole in the connection to the prop shaft? (pic #2) There should be some type of fastener, I think. One is visible in the first picture. Also, a stainless steel wire should go through a hole drilled in the square top of that fastener to prevent it from backing out. (Been there, had that happen!) There appears to be a thin wire through one of the bolts in the flange (correct name?) to the transmission itself. Not clear how or to what it is connected.

All of that can be checked and fastened correctly when the other work is done and the engine aligned with the shaft and hull tube.
 
higgs

higgs

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Aug 24, 2005
3,635
Nassau 34 Olcott, NY
It seems to me that if the rear engine mounts had collapsed, the shaft would be way out of alignment and that would result in a lot of vibration under power. Perhaps that is going on. If the shaft is properly aligned then there is a problem with the construction of the boat. Time to bring in a surveyor.
 
garymalmgren

garymalmgren

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May 29, 2018
458
Canel 25 foot Shiogama, japan
Hunter 320, 2001

Contact Hunter and find out what engine was originally fitted.
I think you will find ( as Richard 19068 has suggested) this is a re-power engine.
Maybe the prop shaft (axle) was shortened to fit the engine on the bed.
I small notch removed from that rib wouldn't worry me.

gary
 
JamesG161

JamesG161

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Feb 14, 2014
7,418
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
garymalmgren said:
I small notch removed from that rib wouldn't worry me.
Click to expand
It would worry me.
It is a structural beam and I think i see the wood exposed.
But waiting to see what happens next.
Jim...

PS: Engine was Yanmar 18 HP on the first H320
 
Marmalade

Marmalade

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May 9, 2020
135
Hunter Legend 37 Harrison Twp, MI
Don’t know the factory condition, but my guess is that there was probably a nicely molded “notch” or relief in the original manufacturing, to allow clearance to the hub.

When previous owner installed dripless seal, they made the notch bigger to get to the bolts/hub removal clearance... in a very crude way. Probably when the safety wire was cut and the 2nd set-screw was left-out... seems like a pattern of short-cuts
 
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D

dlochner

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Jan 11, 2014
11,401
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
While you're working on the shaft, there should be a second collar on the shaft after the seal. If the SS collar should slip, water will enter quickly and at a rate exceeding the bilge pumps capacity.

Given the tight clearances it will probably be easier to use a split collar.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com

If you haven't read the instructions for the PYI Shaft Seal, do read it before messing with the seal. Do not reuse the set screws. They can be purchased from PYI or at McMaster. The seal is more than 7 years old. They no longer make the one you have. PYI's recommends bellows replacement every 7 years.

PYI Inc. | PSS Type A Shaft Seal

The PSS Type A Shaft Seal is a mechanical seal for 3/4 inch to 3-3/4 inch (20mm to 95mm) shafts.
www.shaftseal.com www.shaftseal.com
 
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A

Art12050

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Jan 22, 2008
68
Hunter 30_88-94 Ipswich, Ma MA
Something is definitely screwy. I have the exact same setup on my 1992 Hunter 30, including a new PYI drip less. No notching was require, or was it molded into the hull at the factory. The fiberglass that was notched is the back part of the engine bilge. As mentioned, if the motor mounts have failed or the wrong size installed, the prop shaft would be binding at the stern tube or coupling.
Someone mentioned repowering, that may be the culprit.
 
kloudie1

kloudie1

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Nov 6, 2006
9,892
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Without better info, I think I see the prop shaft not centered (too low) in the stern tube, a pretty big alignment issue..
 
DayDreamer41

DayDreamer41

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Oct 29, 2016
1,915
Hunter 41 DS Port Huron
I sure hope that the OP responds with an update as to how this mystery notch came to light.
 
Last edited:
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Ralph Johnstone

Ralph Johnstone

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Jan 4, 2006
6,473
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
This is what you should have, as shown on our 1999 H-310 with a Yanmar 2GM20F.

Picture 002.jpg


For some reason, and only the PO knows this one, the Yanmar was pushed back several inches and the only way the shaft coupling could be accommodated was to smash out the containment lip for the pan under the packing gland. There is no way the boat came from the factory looking like this.

The lip has no structural function so you're safe there.

If this is a DIY project, start by separating the coupling to see how the alignment is. Check the engine mounting stringers to see if the engine is about to fall off the back end. Maybe an original set of holes which are more forward.

This is one of the most interesting scenarios I have seen come through this site for quite some time. Please be sure to keep us updated on what you find.
 
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Richard19068

Richard19068

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Jun 11, 2004
1,633
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
Ralph Johnstone said:
View attachment 190818

For some reason,... the Yanmar was pushed back several inches and the only way the shaft coupling could be accommodated was to smash out the containment lip for the pan under the packing gland.

Check the engine mounting stringers to see if the engine is about to fall off the back end. Maybe an original set of holes which are more forward.
Click to expand
That's a great hypothesis.
 
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dlochner

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Jan 11, 2014
11,401
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Ralph Johnstone said:
This is what you should have, as shown on our 1999 H-310 with a Yanmar 2GM20F.

View attachment 190818

For some reason, and only the PO knows this one, the Yanmar was pushed back several inches and the only way the shaft coupling could be accommodated was to smash out the containment lip for the pan under the packing gland. There is no way the boat came from the factory looking like this.

The lip has no structural function so you're safe there.

If this is a DIY project, start by separating the coupling to see how the alignment is. Check the engine mounting stringers to see if the engine is about to fall off the back end. Maybe an original set of holes which are more forward.

This is one of the most interesting scenarios I have seen come through this site for quite some time. Please be sure to keep us updated on what you find.
Click to expand
If the engine was moved back then the prop should be further away from the strut by the same amount, unless the shaft was cut. It may also account for what appears to be excessive compression on the Shaft seal noted by @JamesG161.

The distance between the prop hub and the aft end of the strut should be about 1 shaft diameter. Should be easy to check.

Clearly this is some PO's or some incompetent boatyard's doing. Let's all try to not be "that guy." ;)
 
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