By error, I purchased Synthetic 10 W 40 Rotella motor oil - regularly use non synthetic - can’t return due to pandemic - any opinion pro’s or con.’s to use or not use ?
Synthetic Oil ?
- Thread starter btmarino
- Start date
Of course synthetic is a waste of $ for boat diesels, but so long as you have it anyway...
BUY the larger issue is that most newer diesel oils are not recommended for our engines. They are formulated for over the road trucks and can actually be harmful to our boat diesels.
Which Rotella oil "T" series is it, T-?
BUY the larger issue is that most newer diesel oils are not recommended for our engines. They are formulated for over the road trucks and can actually be harmful to our boat diesels.
Which Rotella oil "T" series is it, T-?
I have been using Diesel Engine formulated Synthetic oil in Genset Yanmar and Volva Penta engines for 3 yrs.
Oil is still clean/clear after ≈300 hours on both.
Shell Rotella® T6 15W-40 Full Synthetic Motor Oil
I would change the old oil and filter and use the Synthetic.
I have seen no Carbonization in my riser on my Volvo Penta and it starts faster than my Ford Expedition.
Jim...
PS: I have never had to change oil or filters, since I switched, after investigating Synthetic Oils
Oil is still clean/clear after ≈300 hours on both.
Shell Rotella® T6 15W-40 Full Synthetic Motor Oil
I would change the old oil and filter and use the Synthetic.
I have seen no Carbonization in my riser on my Volvo Penta and it starts faster than my Ford Expedition.
Jim...
PS: I have never had to change oil or filters, since I switched, after investigating Synthetic Oils
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Weigh the cost of the oil you bought and the cost of an engine repair.
Odds seem pretty low that you'll have a problem but is it worth the risk?
I believe the issue is what @weekendrken referred to. Newer oils are formulated with dispersant additives which, as @Michael Davis said, may not be friendly to our 30 year old engines. And if those additives loosen up any old hard gunk deposits, that wouldn't be good either.
I lost a transmission on a GM SUV when I decided to flush the oil after 140k miles. A month later the tranny blew.
Odds seem pretty low that you'll have a problem but is it worth the risk?
I believe the issue is what @weekendrken referred to. Newer oils are formulated with dispersant additives which, as @Michael Davis said, may not be friendly to our 30 year old engines. And if those additives loosen up any old hard gunk deposits, that wouldn't be good either.
I lost a transmission on a GM SUV when I decided to flush the oil after 140k miles. A month later the tranny blew.
btm
Our saying is “ your boat, your choice”, but I would take with caution any recommendations to use an oil w/o that recommender knowing specifically the product you have in your hand for your engine to injest.
Look at the manuals, you want an API service category of CF, CG-4, or CI-4.
CF is obsolete, tho some mfgrs might still list it if the product meets it.
IIIRC, T-5, T-6 do not meet those APIs.
To my knowledge, Kubota does not offer a synthetic or blend -which says something to me. Check Messics.com for Kubota fluids information.
Lastly, you could email Westerbeke to see if it offers a synthetic or blend.
The common wisdom that I’ve read most is to stick to T (probably NLA), T-1, or T-4 depending on the grade you want to run for your climate.
you may find these useful:
Oil Categories
good luck and let us know if you find out any specific info.
Our saying is “ your boat, your choice”, but I would take with caution any recommendations to use an oil w/o that recommender knowing specifically the product you have in your hand for your engine to injest.
Look at the manuals, you want an API service category of CF, CG-4, or CI-4.
CF is obsolete, tho some mfgrs might still list it if the product meets it.
IIIRC, T-5, T-6 do not meet those APIs.
To my knowledge, Kubota does not offer a synthetic or blend -which says something to me. Check Messics.com for Kubota fluids information.
Lastly, you could email Westerbeke to see if it offers a synthetic or blend.
The common wisdom that I’ve read most is to stick to T (probably NLA), T-1, or T-4 depending on the grade you want to run for your climate.
you may find these useful:
Oil Categories
good luck and let us know if you find out any specific info.
Those are for emission standards. A concern for big trucks.
All of my diesel engines are of 1998 vintage.
I even blend my Synthetics to be a lower viscosity, since we don't experience cold waters on the Gulf of Mexico.
I have added one quart on my Volva Penta in 2 years. Dip Stick shows clear oil.
But...
Good idea to check you engine maker before switching.
Jim...
Please post an original source that verifies what you claim, not internet/social media chatter.
Otherwise folks, ignore that opinion or (potentially) do harm to your engine. They are API SERVICE classifications required by the engine manufacturers for performance, seal compatibility, lubrication requirement- not simply for emissions.
This is ESPECIALLY important on older engines that are not necessary “upward compatible” with newer oil formulations.
Warnings provided by API are quite clear and in English, and aren’t about emission standards.
Thanks everyone for your comments - I might just as well NOT use the synthetic - oil seals leaks ? And other potential issues are just not worth it - for $ 20 really ? - little 25 XP runs like a champ - burns no oil - never an issue -
- there was one other issue this tread mentioned - should I really be using 15W 40 in South Florida waters ? - engine manual recommends it !
- there was one other issue this tread mentioned - should I really be using 15W 40 in South Florida waters ? - engine manual recommends it !
API Service Designations for Motor Oil
yes to the viscosity.
Synthetics can be blended to reduced the Start up Viscosity and still run within the range for my diesel.
Water cooling temperatures do make a difference in my Latitudes.
Jim...
PS: Enough said by me on this post.
