Windlass Hunter 33

Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Ah makes sense. I have some pictures of windlass install on H33, but can't find them right off, I'll check some more and post when I get them.
 
Apr 21, 2014
184
Hunter 356 Middle River, MD
When I got my 356 that was one of the first updates I did, getting a Lewmar V2 at the sailboat show in Annapolis for a great price from Defender and speaking with the Lewmar salesperson. Make sure you have the Lemar Hunter mounting plate that exits the chain to the front on the port side and down that little ramp to the bottom of the locker. You will want a stainless piece on the ramp so your fiberglass will not get ripped up when the chain lowers.
The scariest part for me was not the wiring but the drilling of the 3 1/16" hole in my deck, pucker time. Measure twice, and then again and make sure you seal it up well.
Has worked great even as I upgraded to added chain and a 35 lb Delta and now to a 44 lb Rocna, you want to be able to sleep well and not worry about getting the hook up.
Jeff
 
  • Like
Likes: jngotasail
Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Hello again everybody,
So I went to the Toronto boat show this past weekend. I ended up getting the Lewmar VX2 with 5/16 gypsy which was on sale reduced to $990. I also bought 200' chain. All in with taxes in $1970. I'll post some pics once the temperatures improve and I get it installed.
My friend said it will be about $1000 to install. I said no way, I'm doing it myself so $2000. My friend said he's helping so $4000!!
How did the install go. All in??? Any pics??? Did you have to cut out the lid on the anchor locker? Inquiring minds want to know, and my back is getting sore hauling up the anchor.
 
Aug 22, 2018
59
Hunter 33 Prinyers Cove, PE County, ON
How did the install go. All in??? Any pics??? Did you have to cut out the lid on the anchor locker? Inquiring minds want to know, and my back is getting sore hauling up the anchor.
Hello Scott,
The installation went very well and was quit simple. I did not have to cut the locker lid, I have about 5 mm clearance.
I am terrible at taking progress pics but I promise I will spend some time this weekend to show you the finished installation. I did make a couple of silly mistakes but I will correct these at the end of the season, I am too busy enjoying the sailing and weekend living on the hook. The windlass works great and I am glad that I bought it.
BTW Scott, I also installed a deck-wash pump and found your posts from 10 years ago to be very useful so thanks for that.The deck wash was a far bigger pain in the rear than the windlass!
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Hello Scott,
The installation went very well and was quit simple. I did not have to cut the locker lid, I have about 5 mm clearance.
I am terrible at taking progress pics but I promise I will spend some time this weekend to show you the finished installation. I did make a couple of silly mistakes but I will correct these at the end of the season, I am too busy enjoying the sailing and weekend living on the hook. The windlass works great and I am glad that I bought it.
BTW Scott, I also installed a deck-wash pump and found your posts from 10 years ago to be very useful so thanks for that.The deck wash was a far bigger pain in the rear than the windlass!
Yep, would be very interested in pics and details. Just talked with Genco and can get the VX2 for $1,100, which is close enough, was going to wait for TO Boat show, but tweaked my back last weekend so time to pull the trigger.

Was the deck thick enough? I see Lewmar recommend min. 1 1/2". I'm assuming it is as Hunter designed that location for a windlass. It's been years since I've had my head up in there, but seem to recall it is prewired with the breaker on the panel?

Glad you found the info on the wash-down. It's been very handy, use it all the time, including washing the boat at anchor or the dock. Even used it to partially fill the water tank when we went bingo after 5 days on the hook. ( used it for dishes and hands etc. only, Always take bottled for coffee etc. ) IIRC the trickiest part was snaking the hose from the bildge area, into the v-berth, and up into the bulkhead below the anchor locker.
 
Jul 4, 2015
436
Hunter 34 Menominee, MI; Sturgeon Bay WI
Hello Scott,
The installation went very well and was quit simple. I did not have to cut the locker lid, I have about 5 mm clearance.
I am terrible at taking progress pics but I promise I will spend some time this weekend to show you the finished installation. I did make a couple of silly mistakes but I will correct these at the end of the season, I am too busy enjoying the sailing and weekend living on the hook. The windlass works great and I am glad that I bought it.
BTW Scott, I also installed a deck-wash pump and found your posts from 10 years ago to be very useful so thanks for that.The deck wash was a far bigger pain in the rear than the windlass!
 
Jul 4, 2015
436
Hunter 34 Menominee, MI; Sturgeon Bay WI
Could you please direct me to Scott's deck-wash pump notes? Did a search and can't locate it. Thanks.
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Could you please direct me to Scott's deck-wash pump notes? Did a search and can't locate it. Thanks.
What did you need to know. I used the thru-hull for the macerator for the intake. Boats in fresh water far from safe dumping so removed the macerator altogether. Pump is located just past the intake thru-hull in an area under the floor. Ran the hose up to the anchor locker area. ( pita, but managed ) Installed a shut-off valve into the anchor locker and a coiled hose and nozzle. Used the breaker on the panel for the macerator and wired in the pump.
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
If you use the Search Forums link ( not the search in the upper right on this page ) and search wash and by my name in By User you'll find my posts.

I won't be back to the boat for couple weeks but can get you pics if you would like any.
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Hello Scott,
The installation went very well and was quit simple. I did not have to cut the locker lid, I have about 5 mm clearance.
I am terrible at taking progress pics but I promise I will spend some time this weekend to show you the finished installation. I did make a couple of silly mistakes but I will correct these at the end of the season, I am too busy enjoying the sailing and weekend living on the hook. The windlass works great and I am glad that I bought it.
BTW Scott, I also installed a deck-wash pump and found your posts from 10 years ago to be very useful so thanks for that.The deck wash was a far bigger pain in the rear than the windlass!

What switch did you install. Did you run the rocker back to the cockpit or get a remote switch of some sort. I know some have complained about the chain not free falling and bunching up below the windlass, so would need some sort of switch at the bow?

I'm going to have a million questions now.
 
Aug 22, 2018
59
Hunter 33 Prinyers Cove, PE County, ON
What switch did you install. Did you run the rocker back to the cockpit or get a remote switch of some sort. I know some have complained about the chain not free falling and bunching up below the windlass, so would need some sort of switch at the bow?

I'm going to have a million questions now.
Wow Scott you have little patience :)

The deck was 1" thick. If I recall correctly 5/8 ply plus fiberglass both sides made it 1". So I installed a backer plate made up of a piece of 3/4 ply which I epoxied into place. The underside was relatively flat. I held it in place overnight with a piece of 2x4 wedged underneath. This was the easy part of the job. I had already drilled the holes through the anchor locker so the next day I just re drilled through the ply. The bolts are plenty long enough for the extra 1/4" but would not work with the 1" as you run out of thread. To actually bolt the windlass down you have to hold the motor in place while trying to line up the slotted groove and threading the nut onto the bolts. I found it impossible to keep everything in place so I had to get the Admiral to stand on top of the windless from above while I did the hard work underneath but, of course now "she" installed the windlass!
My boat was not prewired which makes sense because Hunter would not know what type of windlass the owners would buy/voltage/amps etc. But yes there is a breaker on the panel. When I laid the template down to drill the holes I made sure that the part where the chain travels in and out lined up with the guide in the anchor locker and I took it as far forward as I dare. I used AWG#2 wire for the power. I came directly off the starter battery to the breaker supplied by Lewmar then, from the breaker to the supplied control box which i mounted to the backer plate. From there you run 2 powers to the windlass one for each direction. Then ran neutral from the windlass to the neutral bus bar behind the breaker panel. I placed the breaker under the nav table next to the battery switch. I then installed the foot switches inside the anchor locker. (I really did not want them deck mounted) and then I ran AWG#14 wire from the windlass breaker on the panel to the switches and pig tailed to each switch then connected each switch connects to the control box. I do not trust the rubber gasket to provide a complete seal so I ran a bead of sealant around the base. In fact the switches did not even come with a rubber gasket so they were place on top of a bed of sealant before being screwed down. It also came supplied with a rocker switch. I spent a FULL day trying to figure out how to run it back to my cockpit. I have the perfect place to put it next to the throttle control. While I was trying to figure this out I noticed that all of the wiring for my wind/speed/depth and autopilot come through a hole that the installer drilled through the drainage scupper under the sole of the cockpit. It is sealed with about half a tube of silicone. This made me blow my top. OK, maybe it hasn't leaked for 12 years but to me that's a problem waiting to happen. So at the end of the season I shall be pulling all of those wires out and re routing this is when I shall install the rocker switch.
I have 200' of 5/16 chain. This was a major pain trying to get it onto the windlass. It kept kinking and getting jammed. The free fall/operation is a friction fit and you have to tighten it quit hard with a winch handle to make it work. The rinky dink plastic handle that lewmar provided just wouldn't work so now I keep a real winch handle in the anchor locker. I brought the chain to the boat in a wheelbarrow and tried to wind it onto the windlass straight from the barrow. this was a mistake so when you get round to doing it you need to lay out the chain as long as possible and try to get the kinks out.
So while actually using the windlass I have found it to be extremely good but no it is not perfect. When I am in position and ready to drop the anchor the free fall tends to work only until the anchor hits bottom and then a bit more chain due to the velocity. If the Admiral is with me she will start backing up then normally the anchor will start to grab just enough to start pulling out more chain. If I am solo that weekend the I tend to lock it of and use the foot switch to pay out more chain and let the wind push the boat along. Bringing the anchor up it is important to try to not let the windlass drag the boat through the water. This can overload the motor. The windlass is only supposed to lift the weight of the chain and anchor. So If I am solo I tend to pull on the chain to get the boat moving forward then start to winch in using the foot switch. If the Admiral is on board then she can motor forwards for me. Yes the chain does bunch up and you have to continuously throw it to the back of the locker. Its not that bad. I sit down and push the foot switch with my right hand and the left hand is feeding the chain as it exits the windlass. My chain is galvanized. I fell that if it was stainless steel it would create less friction and everything would run a lot smoother but the price of stainless is crazy and it probably wouldn't last any longer.
I probably dont have to tell you this but I will anyway.
1. Never run the windlass without the engine running or else you will destroy the batteries.
2. Never rely on the windlass as a tie of point. At anchor the chain gets wrapped around the cleat in the locker then you need a snubber attached to the chain which gets tied of to the "real" cleats on the deck. The snubber gets paid out so that there is slack in the chain. I dont think neither the chain cleat or the windlass would last a night through a good storm if they were the primary source of attachment.
 
Last edited:
Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Ah perfect. Main reason for all the questions they have to order in a VX2 so wanted to order the switch at the same time. From reading your install I'll most likely order the wireless which will allow me to be at the helm or anchor.

I've run wires from the helm and yes have the glob of caulk. I'll give you some more pointers when I'm back in front of my computer.

Thanks for the write up. Great info.
 
Aug 22, 2018
59
Hunter 33 Prinyers Cove, PE County, ON
Hi Scott
You are welcome.
Mine came supplied with the foot switches. The remote would be a good option but I would be wary about dropping it in the drink or having a failure when you least need it. Just my 2 cents but I would go with a wired switch as a back up to the remote.
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
I'll probably run both. Lewmar site listed rocker switch as being supplied.

When your're running wires back to the helm ( you'll thank me for this one if you don't know ) there is a 1 1/2" pvc pipe that was installed in the space just below the side deck. It runs from above the shelf over the electrical panels, through the head and aft cabin and comes out just above the holding tank. You can easily run wires through here, mine was mostly empty guess the dealer was unaware.

I ended up taking the helm pod all apart, even pulled the tube out of the base to get wires up through. It's very tight and I think (?) there is an interanal partial block near the base. ( Can't remember if it was here as well, but there is one definately in the base of the arch. Ran solar wires last year through there ) Spray your wires with Sailcoat and will help slide.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
What switch did you install. Did you run the rocker back to the cockpit or get a remote switch of some sort. I know some have complained about the chain not free falling and bunching up below the windlass, so would need some sort of switch at the bow?

I'm going to have a million questions now.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
On my B323 I wired the corded paddle switch in the anchor locker. That's all I had for a while, and that was okay until a crew let the cord get sliced in the windlass. Thinking redundancy is always good, I used the Lewmar rocker switch and placed it on the helm. To prevent anyone from pushing the rocker just to see what it does, I picked up the 12v from the cockpit light which is on the forward side of the helm. THAT is wired from the cabin lights breaker. Thaaaaaat breaker has to be on to use the helm rocker. As I wired it, the light needs to be on also- depends how you wire it. The cockpit light-on also indicates the cabin lights breaker is on. /// You do not have to pick up the same 12v source that the bow switch uses! Thus, you only need 2 wires to the helm, not 3. Again, you could that it either way.
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
@jngotasail any idea of length of #2 you used. I'm trying to line up everything to take up with me and do the install the Aug. long weekend. Problem with having the boat 3 hours away.