Nice work, @Minnesail! That looks a lot like mine (https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...and-restoring-9874.195739/page-2#post-1523243) but yours is cleaner and prettier.
$75 worth of hose clamps?!?!? $@*!$#
- Thread starter ScubaGuy2
- Start date
Are you sure about that?!?!?!?
Unless I'm missing something, if I closed the sea cock, my scuppers will fill with water. With no where for the water to go the cockpit will fill up, which would then over flow the companion way, which would then begin to fill the boat with water, until it eventually sunk.
Or am I missing something???
Man I'm so glad I do not have any through hull fittings except for the keel lifting cable! My sink will be a simple bucket that gets emptied overboard when no one is looking!
My boat had three through hull fittings and only the one draining the galley had a valve. The cockpit scuppers were directly connected to the through hulls. Reinforced PVC pipe and crusty clamps was all that kept the water out!
Based on above discussion and plumbing it actually now makes more sense to have the three through hulls. Eliminates all the t-pieces. It does however raise the need to isolating valves for all three drains.
Part of our boat safety equipment requirements is wooden bungs that fit into the through hull fittings. I cant imagine jumping into frigid water to try slam a bung into a hole!
My boat had three through hull fittings and only the one draining the galley had a valve. The cockpit scuppers were directly connected to the through hulls. Reinforced PVC pipe and crusty clamps was all that kept the water out!
Based on above discussion and plumbing it actually now makes more sense to have the three through hulls. Eliminates all the t-pieces. It does however raise the need to isolating valves for all three drains.
Part of our boat safety equipment requirements is wooden bungs that fit into the through hull fittings. I cant imagine jumping into frigid water to try slam a bung into a hole!
I think you slam the bung into the through-hull from inside the boat?
Skandvik hose clamps are ABA clamps in a Skandvik box.. The other quality option is AWAB. What makes them superior is they won't fail and sink your boat. They are well worth every penny.What makes Scandvik or ABA hose clamps worth 5 X as much as other stainless clamps? There's got to be a good reason?
https://marinehowto.com/proper-installation-of-double-hose-clamps/
Scuba, close the seacock to the sink at all times unless using the sink. (NOT the seacock to the scuppers which should always be left open IMO.Are you sure about that?!?!?!?
Unless I'm missing something, if I closed the sea cock, my scuppers will fill with water. With no where for the water to go the cockpit will fill up, which would then over flow the companion way, which would then begin to fill the boat with water, until it eventually sunk.
Or am I missing something???
I keep a small plunger stashed to push any water remaining in the sink line out past the seacock.
That same plunger gets used occasionally on the cockpit scuppers to keep those lines clear.
Also, install scuppers in the transom to cover you in the event that forward scuppers get plugged up (if you haven't already).
Mine keep clear when in the slip, but when on the hard, leaves, pinestraw can plug up the forward ones.
This thread brings to light the need for brass fittings rather than plastic. I was pretty comfortable with my setup and no issues until Judy brought up the need for "marine" fittings which some of mine are not. BTW, I still don't see the need for double hose clamps everywhere (except the volcano of course!), but that is good insurance.
Here's my current setup, I'll replace the grey plastic fittings w/brass when I can get around to it. The big grey T on top of the black scupper seacock is original to the boat from Catalina....
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Defender sells a Skandvik kit which also includes a flexible nut driver. Was a great price during the Warehouse sale, but still a good deal if one plans on replacing all of their clamps like I did.
Decided to replace for each hose I touched during Spring commissioning...so all of them
You can also get every size individually for a reasonable price...
Yep I followed Maine's instructions also!Nice work, @Minnesail! That looks a lot like mine (https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...and-restoring-9874.195739/page-2#post-1523243) but yours is cleaner and prettier.
I told myself that if I had to do it over again I'd go with Marelon, but now that I'm looking I don't see that they make a tee fitting. Very odd.
And here I thought that a boat with a porta-potty might be one of the few places where Dad could get a break from plunger duty
Recommendation: make that BRONZE instead of brass. Reference @Maine Sail's article at https://marinehowto.com/seacock-thru-hull-primer/
Agree with Stu, replace those that are hard to get at with the high quality clamps and use the lesser quality clamps for the rest as long as you inspect them frequently. $75 of clamps are a better safety item than installing a backup bilge pump.
I agree with all the advice given... no PVC in that application, reinforced hoses, double clamps, and most of all... When I inherited my first boat and didn't know any better, I DID go for the hardware-store "stainless" hose clamps... which despite being clearly labelled "Stainless Steel" ended up being stainless BANDS with regular old steel screws inserted... after a year or two the screws started sticking/seizing... a couple years after that the screw heads were reduced to lumps of rust... any attempts to adjust with either wrench or screwdriver resulted in the heads popping off the screws with frighteningly little force applied. Presumably if I hadn't replaced them with real 316 marine stainless clamps when I did, another year or two and they would have just fallen right off on their own, sending the boat to the bottom of the sea. Job number one of your boat is to keep the water on the right side of the hull and on the right side of those hoses... good clamps and hoses are money well spent. I'm a cheapskate at times, but wouldn't cheap-out there.
$75 worth of hose clamps have been ordered.
My ball valves are both RC Marine like @rpludwig It appears it's the predecessor to Forespar's Marelon. Any issue installing a bronze tee into the top of this valve, then installing Marelon barb fittings (tailpipes) into the bronze valve? Would the nipple connecting the ball valve to the tee be bronze or Marelon (if that even exists)?
To do like @Minnesail & @AaronD would be a much larger project. Much more than I need to bite off at this point in time. But they both look great!!!
I would love to see pics from anyone who has a mix of Marelon and bronze, especially if you have a functioning sink drain.
My ball valves are both RC Marine like @rpludwig It appears it's the predecessor to Forespar's Marelon. Any issue installing a bronze tee into the top of this valve, then installing Marelon barb fittings (tailpipes) into the bronze valve? Would the nipple connecting the ball valve to the tee be bronze or Marelon (if that even exists)?
To do like @Minnesail & @AaronD would be a much larger project. Much more than I need to bite off at this point in time. But they both look great!!!
I would love to see pics from anyone who has a mix of Marelon and bronze, especially if you have a functioning sink drain.
You will never look back and regret that $75 purchase.$75 worth of hose clamps have been ordered.
I buy those clamps here: http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/HOSE-Awab_Stainless_Steel_Hose_Clamps.html
They have good prices on hose also. Don't mix bronze with marelon fittings. Stick with the bronze for below waterline.
They have good prices on hose also. Don't mix bronze with marelon fittings. Stick with the bronze for below waterline.
At this point I'm still a bit stumped on how to proceed on this project. Hose and hose clamps is about the only thing I'm settled on.
My concern is this turning into a huge project. I want to do this correctly, but do not want to do something where I end up having to replace either the thru-hull fitting or the current Marelon ball valve, or both. I'm afraid, if I try to remove the ball valve, inorder to replace it with bronze, I could potentially loosen the thru-hull such that it needs to be resealed/replaced. I'm looking for a simple safe solution, that avoids that possibility.
If I can, correctly, join a bronze tee to the Marelon ball valve, all my problems are solved. I'll simply attach an additional bronze tee to the first tee, with a bronze nipple. Install bronze or Marelon barb fittings. Install my reinforced tubing, and tighten it all down with my shiny new hose clamps.
My question seems simple. How do I correctly and safely attach a bronze tee to a Marelon ball valve? What material do I choose for the nipple? Bronze? Or is this simply not possible? There does not seem to be a Marelon nipple available.
Surely, I'm not the first person to run into this problem. There's 12,000 other people with the same plumbing arrangement.
My concern is this turning into a huge project. I want to do this correctly, but do not want to do something where I end up having to replace either the thru-hull fitting or the current Marelon ball valve, or both. I'm afraid, if I try to remove the ball valve, inorder to replace it with bronze, I could potentially loosen the thru-hull such that it needs to be resealed/replaced. I'm looking for a simple safe solution, that avoids that possibility.
If I can, correctly, join a bronze tee to the Marelon ball valve, all my problems are solved. I'll simply attach an additional bronze tee to the first tee, with a bronze nipple. Install bronze or Marelon barb fittings. Install my reinforced tubing, and tighten it all down with my shiny new hose clamps.
My question seems simple. How do I correctly and safely attach a bronze tee to a Marelon ball valve? What material do I choose for the nipple? Bronze? Or is this simply not possible? There does not seem to be a Marelon nipple available.
Surely, I'm not the first person to run into this problem. There's 12,000 other people with the same plumbing arrangement.
Why don't you give the Marelon folks a call, forearmed with a picture, preferably showing enough detail/numbers for them to know what you have?
There is a comment on the Marelon brochure about being compatible with bronze fittings but do call Forespar Tech Support. I spoke to them three times while putting together a parts list for changing out my Marelon thru hulls.
ref: perforated hose clamps
I recently read, probably on a vender's web site, that perforated hose clamps "grab" in the perforations preventing the clamp from evenly clamping the hose. None perforated clamps will "slide" on the hose while tightening. sThis allows better and even clamping force around the hose.
Never heard it before. Ad propaganda or is there some truth to it?
ref: perforated hose clamps
I recently read, probably on a vender's web site, that perforated hose clamps "grab" in the perforations preventing the clamp from evenly clamping the hose. None perforated clamps will "slide" on the hose while tightening. sThis allows better and even clamping force around the hose.
Never heard it before. Ad propaganda or is there some truth to it?
