Who made this waste tank for the 1989 Hunter 30?

[clamrock]

Hi all,

I"m currently replacing all components in our 1989 Hunter 30's head. The last piece of the puzzle seems to be this Waste tank which I cannot seem to find. I contacted Ronco and a few other manufacturers with no luck. Waiting to hear back from Dura-weld Plastics.... Does anyone know where I might find a similar tank? If not - perhaps recommend someone that makes custom tanks?

The problem with this tank is that it is giving off some type of chemical odor. We removed the tank and power-washed it, scrubbed it, etc. I put the old tank back in the boat with all new pluming, head, etc. I removed all of the rotted wood, and cabinets and made new.

After a day with this old tank back in the boat the head started to smell again. We hadn't even used it. We tried spraying it with different deodorizers with no luck. Finally I took the tank out - the next day the odor was completely gone.

I'm not sure what the odor is - but it's on the outside of the tank and I can't get rid of it... Perhaps the outside of the tank could be "sealed" with some type of paint or epoxy?

Anyway - any ideas would be great.

Thank you!

Chris

 

[Justin_NSA]

FWIW, there's a mod for that generation of Hunter 30s.
https://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=24&aid=8134&mn=30_88-94

 

[clamrock]

Thanks Justin,

I saw that mod - but I think that's for a 30T.. My tank is in the cabinet in the head. If I did move the tank I would wonder if it's worth it as that would be quite a long waste line for only a ~20 gal tank as I understand you should pump the waste all the way into the tank so it doesn't sit in the hoses....

 

[Justin_NSA]

I think you may be right now that I look at it closer. He doesn't say what model he has. Must be later than my 30T, my tank is metal

 

[Sailgunner]

I had a custom tank made for my 30t. Was able to put in a 20 gallon tank.

 

[rgranger]

I would think a few coats of an epoxy paint would do a good job of sealing the tank.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

First...I see you've just joined sbo.com today...welcome aboard!
Now to your problem: Had you reconnected all the hoses when you put the tank back in the boat? If not, there's a good chance it's NOT the outside of it that stinks. I've had people argue that they know it IS possible for plastic holding tanks to permeate because they removed one, put it in the garage, and the next day the whole garage stank. But the tank hadn't permeated...without plugs in all the fittings, the odor from INSIDE the tank was escaping. So I can't help wondering if that might be the case here. If you had reconnected all the hoses, that shoots down my theory.

You said you tried all kinds of "deodorizers"...did you try PureAyre? PureAyre To use it, ALL surfaces the tank--including the bottom--must first be thoroughly scrubbed and cleaned with plenty of detergent and water...apparently you've already done that. Using PureAyre full strength (put it in a trigger spray bottle--or better yet, a garden pump sprayer jug) spray a good coating of it on every surface including the bottom (put it on saw horses). Do NOT rinse...just let it dry for at least 24 hours, in a location where there's plenty of fresh air. If that doesn't eliminate all the odor, the plastic is outgassing a chemical, which is very rare in a tank that old and could be an indication that the plastic is breaking down. Or odor from another source in the head is attaching itself to the tank (however, I'm pretty sure you'd have the odor when the tank wasn't there too if that were the case). When did it start stinking? Or have you just bought the boat and have no way to know?
If PureAyre doesn't elinate it (and btw, I have NO connection whatever to the company), nothing will. And I doubt painting it will solve the problem either because it won't bond to polyethelene--nothing will, at least not permanently. So I'm afraid that a new tank is the only answer. I'm pretty sure DuraWeld (known as DuraCast then) made it...that's who made all of Hunter's waste tanks when your boat was built.

--Peggie

 

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[Justin_NSA]

Because I like spending other sailors' money, I suggest that you may want to add a tank monitor to the project. I had to use the in-tank sensor with my metal tank. Plastic tanks can use the external foil sensor.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

SCAD is a private label brand of the Profile tank monitors, which you can buy direct from the mfr for a lot less. Profile Tank Monitors and Dennis Feriello provides the best support and customer service in the marine industry!
--Peggie

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Listen to Peggy hall as she is well versed. You may also need to replace hoses as well.

 

[clamrock]

Thanks for all the information!

To answer your questions Peggie - first let me say we purchased your book this winter - so thank you for all of the information & help!!!

We purchased the boat last year - it was stinky then. No idea how long it was like that.

I removed everything in the head - including walls & cabinets. We hosed what was left with PureAyre several times - then started rebuilding. There was a slight odor left in the head for a while - I put damp rags on every surface in there to try and find the source... To my nose nothing smelled like "that odor". I built all new cabinets and walls. Purchased the Trident 105(?) hoses with all new connections, cleaned the vent, and bought all new connections.

As I said we took the tank out and scrubbed and power washed. We left it in the garage for a week spraying it with PureAyre every day.

I then put the new walls in the head, and mounted the new toilet and cleaned tank. I then plumbed everything with the new hose and hooked up the vent. The tank was completely "sealed" from inside the boat. Over a few days we started to notice the odor. We sprayed PureAyre all over the tank - what else could it be? We did this for a good week, airing out the boat, as we worked on other systems. Finally my wife said it has to be the tank. I took the tank out and the very next day it smelled 100% better. Crazy.

The odor was a chemicaly odor that gets in your lungs - it was hard to work in the head for any period of time with that odor. Now the tank has been out a week or so and the odor is just barely noticeable - I'm hoping with time it will go away completely.


Thanks again for the tips on the tank - I've decided to built one myself - I ordered a sheet of 3/8" Polypropylene and some spin weld fittings. I just need to buy a welder now....

If anyone is interested I'll keep you posted on the project.

-Chris

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

It's not necessary to heat weld PP...unlike PE, it can be "glued"...you just have to know which product to use and how much. In fact, I'm not even sure PP can be heat welded. And instead of installing threaded fittings, I'd use Uniseals UNISEAL The only place I don't recommend 'em is a discharge fitting at the bottom of a tank.
Triple M Plastics in Maine makes outstanding quality custom tanks...they use PP instead of PE because it's easier to cut and bond the walls together. You might want to spend some time looking for information on their website that'll help you learn how to do this job right the first time, 'cuz the LAST thing anyone needs is a holding tank failure!
However, in case you really meant to say you're making the tank out of PE (polyethylene)...heat welding isn't as easy as just applying some melted PE to the edges of the walls...it's necessary to also melt up to 1/2" of the wall too, so that the new PE and the melted edge run together to become a single mass. Otherwise the weld WILL leak. Spinwelding is only used to install fittings, and it's not that easy either...it's a learned skill that requires considerable practice with a spinwelder (a different type of heat welder) to do it right.
So whether you make the tank out of PP or PE, I suggest you make a small "practice" tank before making a tank that's gonna hold raw sewage.
--Peggie

 

[clamrock]

Peggie,

Thanks for the information - I'll certainly be doing some research here. I like the idea of the Uniseals! What do you think about using a hole on the top of the tank with a Uniseal and a pvc tube running to the (near) the bottom for discharge?

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

ALL fittings on the top is my favorite way to do it...IF you have enough clearance above the tank for fittings. At least 5" is needed for 1.5" 90, which you'll almost certainly need on the inlet from the toilet. The "diptube" on the discharge fitting should actually touch the bottom, but cut at about a 25 degree angle. Undissolve solids or TP can get caught under it if's any flatter....Any higher angle leaves too much in the tank.
I'll be glad to help you one-on-one if you want me to...and I think you'll also find a lot of help in my book (see link in my signature). The title (my publisher's idea) is a bit misleading...'cuz although it does deal with every source of odor on a boat and how to cure, or better yet PREVENT 'em, it's actually a comprehensive "marine toilets and sanitation systems 101" manual that explains the laws, describes all the types of systems and how they work, and will help you learn how to install, operate and maintain your system to prevent 99% of problems instead of having to cure 'em. 'Cuz it's always cheaper and easier to do anything right the first time than it is to do it over...AND you get to do any preventive maintenance on your terms when it's convenient...the need to cure a problem never happens when it is! And I'm always glad to answer any questions it doesn't.

--Peggie

 

[Mike Oldak]

I just replaced my holding tank and all the hoses and pipes. More importantly, since I only sail on the Chesapeake Bay and never go off shore, I removed all of the hoses, valves, etc. for dumping waste overboard. Made my head much cleaner looking and removed any issues with hoses going bad or disconnected or ????

 

[plenny7]

ALL fittings on the top is my favorite way to do it...IF you have enough clearance above the tank for fittings. At least 5" is needed for 1.5" 90, which you'll almost certainly need on the inlet from the toilet. The "diptube" on the discharge fitting should actually touch the bottom, but cut at about a 25 degree angle.

I had very limited space on the top of my new holding tank but was able to get things to fit using one of these for the elbow:
https://www.marinesan.com/Tight-Elbow-p/600342806.htm
wrapped in teflon tape and screwed into one of these:
https://www.marinesan.com/Sealand-1-5-Flanged-Fitting-p/385311252.htm
which was then pressed into the 2" Uniseal

In total it required less than 3" above the tank.

You can use the same setup for the discharge fitting by gluing the 1.5" PVC pipe to the bottom of the flanged fitting.

 

[Sailing Nalu]

This is very helpful!! Thanks...
We bought a 1994 Hunter 30T this spring, and have been struggling to figure out where exactly this little leak... and stink is coming from. I'm pretty sure now that the metal tank has corroded and is seeping..... a nice slow problem, but so foul!!
It looks from these photos, that there is certainly space for a larger tank that what is there. I haven't cut into the aft berth bulkhead yet, but I guess that's the first step.
I was hoping to have a new tank in hand, and get the job done in one visit.
Many of the tanks that I'm looking at have the openings on the side, not the top.
Anyone want to comment on this.... pros/cons
(Original tank that is there, has both. One on top, and two on sides.)
Thanks in advance

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

S Nalu.... Ronco Plastics (no relation to the VegoMatic Ronco) Ronco Plastics marine Tanks is your best source for a tank. They make TOP quality thick-walled water and waste tanks for a very reasonable price and have more than 400 shapes and sizes, over 100 of which are non-rectangular, and they install fittings in the sizes and locations specified by the customer when they make the tank.

You can use the same setup for the discharge fitting by gluing the 1.5" PVC pipe to the bottom of the flanged fitting.

Not the best way to do that 'cuz it made the diptube impossible to remove without also removing the Uniseal. Make the diptube long enough to stick out high enough able the tank enough to attach a 90 if you need one...make it a little longer to use as a straight hose fitting. I hope you did use a dip tube long enough to touch the bottom, cut at about a 25 degree angle. Any flatter, undissolved solids or TP can get caught under it...any sharper leaves too much in the tank.
--Peggie

 

[Sailing Nalu]

S Nalu.... Ronco Plastics (no relation to the VegoMatic Ronco) Ronco Plastics marine Tanks is your best source for a tank. They make TOP quality thick-walled water and waste tanks for a very reasonable price and have more than 400 shapes and sizes, over 100 of which are non-rectangular, and they install fittings in the sizes and locations specified by the customer when they make the tank.


Not the best way to do that 'cuz it made the diptube impossible to remove without also removing the Uniseal. Make the diptube long enough to stick out high enough able the tank enough to attach a 90 if you need one...make it a little longer to use as a straight hose fitting. I hope you did use a dip tube long enough to touch the bottom, cut at about a 25 degree angle. Any flatter, undissolved solids or TP can get caught under it...any sharper leaves too much in the tank.
--Peggie

Thanks Peggie;
Yes, I've been in touch with Ronco, but they can't help us for another few weeks, and we have are hoping to go away with the boat....