H26: Hatchboards/washboard dimensions
- Thread starter rgranger
- Start date
I,ll be going to boat today,get you size!Friend did the same on his and cut in a small round acces port just for hose ,older Catalina so didnt mind cutting in to it.
Food for thought. In case of emergency, fire, sinking and so on inside the boat, air conditioning units in the main hatchway present a major problem as you only have seconds to get out regardless of forward hatches which by the way are smaller.
A consideration is to make a platform to level the AC unit outside with/without legs and have a cover made from Sunbrella that is buttoned down which can be pushed away quickly if you have to get out quickly as seconds for escape here is critical. Food for thought
A consideration is to make a platform to level the AC unit outside with/without legs and have a cover made from Sunbrella that is buttoned down which can be pushed away quickly if you have to get out quickly as seconds for escape here is critical. Food for thought
rgranger,
keep me posted on what you come up with on the a/c. Im playing with a window unit in the companion way right now
and am not having much luck. I hate the way the hatch boards slope inward on the 26. It makes stepping over the ac into the boat so difficult. I can do it, but my wife struggles terribly... and I just don't see anywhere to put one of the portables on the 26.
on my previous boats a hunter 25.5 and a 23.5 both of them the hatch boards are pretty much straight up (not sloped) and the a/c worked so much better in them... This one is kicking my rear end, to come up with a good solution....
keep me posted on what you come up with on the a/c. Im playing with a window unit in the companion way right now
and am not having much luck. I hate the way the hatch boards slope inward on the 26. It makes stepping over the ac into the boat so difficult. I can do it, but my wife struggles terribly... and I just don't see anywhere to put one of the portables on the 26.
on my previous boats a hunter 25.5 and a 23.5 both of them the hatch boards are pretty much straight up (not sloped) and the a/c worked so much better in them... This one is kicking my rear end, to come up with a good solution....
Thanks @jbreland
I appreciate the feedback. I used to have one of those dometic carry on AC units that fit in the front hatch but it took R21 and .....
Anyway, I wonder if I could build a nice looking cowl/hood to fit over the forward hatch and place the AC unit in the fore of the hood.
Something like this...
I plan to go to the boat this week and take a lot of careful measurements and try to get a sense of how feasible this idea might be. I would have to build in the curves to fit snug against the boat and then cover the edges with a foam trim to make a snug fit. A question I will have to sort out is how to secure it in place. I could probably put a few cleats on the hood and take a line to the stanchion posts for securing it. If I use a light cable for the "line" and pad-lock it to the stanchion, then I could also "secure" the boat with the AC unit in place. I know how to take the sort of measurements to make the curve. I think I will mock-up a hood using foam board and duct tape just to see how it all fits together. And I probably would have to line the interior of the hood with foam board. I could later trim my mock-up for that purpose. I guess the final question is do I want to use furniture grade plywood and varnish... or do I want to paint.
I appreciate the feedback. I used to have one of those dometic carry on AC units that fit in the front hatch but it took R21 and .....
Anyway, I wonder if I could build a nice looking cowl/hood to fit over the forward hatch and place the AC unit in the fore of the hood.
Something like this...
I plan to go to the boat this week and take a lot of careful measurements and try to get a sense of how feasible this idea might be. I would have to build in the curves to fit snug against the boat and then cover the edges with a foam trim to make a snug fit. A question I will have to sort out is how to secure it in place. I could probably put a few cleats on the hood and take a line to the stanchion posts for securing it. If I use a light cable for the "line" and pad-lock it to the stanchion, then I could also "secure" the boat with the AC unit in place. I know how to take the sort of measurements to make the curve. I think I will mock-up a hood using foam board and duct tape just to see how it all fits together. And I probably would have to line the interior of the hood with foam board. I could later trim my mock-up for that purpose. I guess the final question is do I want to use furniture grade plywood and varnish... or do I want to paint.
Is there anything that says the cowl has to be hard? Could you get the same performance from a soft form that would fold and stow in a locker for when you're sailing? Maybe make a sandbag/lead shot rim to hold it in place around the hatch opening? Something like a wind scoop for the AC.
Just saw this small portable unit, 14 by 18 by 21 inches, around 50 lbs. Would that fit in your cabin? It'd be a lot easier to rig a hatchboard to fit the exhaust hose, and drain condensate to the bilge. It might even store in a lazarette.
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Thank you that would be a good option.
I have been looking at these portable units and I think I would need to get the type that vent the humidity out of the exhaust hose. The H26 does not have a true bilge. There is a low spot under the aft berth with a bilge pump but you would need about 5" of water in the salon before it would activate. The pump is really mostly a safety device for a serious problem. For the most part the H26 is a very dry boat.
I have been looking at these portable units and I think I would need to get the type that vent the humidity out of the exhaust hose. The H26 does not have a true bilge. There is a low spot under the aft berth with a bilge pump but you would need about 5" of water in the salon before it would activate. The pump is really mostly a safety device for a serious problem. For the most part the H26 is a very dry boat.
I ended up using a portable unit and venting out of my solar vent. I can’t load pics from the marina but I’ll load when I have a stronger connection
You probably don't want it in casters anyhow. To much rolling around in a marina or at anchor can be annoying.
-Will (Dragonfly)
One last update. I lashed a line around the AC unit to the compression post under the table. I then took the boat for a sail and the AC unit stayed put... no problems. At present the vent is just duct tapped to the solar vent exit. However the hose end cap has a bracket that will let me screw it to the head liner. I did not have my drill bits for a pilot hole so I didn't do this yet. I'd be worried about sleeping and having the duct tape come loose so I still have a little work to do.
rgranger, you haven't said how it is performing ??? middle of the day what can you get the temp to in the boat ?
also can you get a pic of the hose attaching to the solar vent ?
also do you know which solar vent you have and where is it located ?
also can you get a pic of the hose attaching to the solar vent ?
also do you know which solar vent you have and where is it located ?
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I'll get those pics next time I am out to the boat. Here is a pic of where my solar vent is located. I don't know how cold I can get the boat either but I think it will be fine. I didn't run it that long. When I first turned on the AC unit, the interior temperature was 97F and within 10 minutes it was down to 85F. That is when I secured it to the compression post with a lash and went for a test sail... the wind was just to perfect to stay in port.... I can also say that it was not very loud so all-in-all, I am happy with it so far. If it lasts three seasons I will feel I made a good purchase.
By the way, if the portable model can fit and is more convenient that in the companionway (seems to me it would be) - but you are worried about condensate into the bilge, you could get a 120V condensate pump and route the hose out wherever the A/C exhaust exits, or maybe into your sink. You will need 120V anyway. They are only about $40 or $50 at home improvement stores, and there may be smaller one that are less. They do make some noise for maybe 30 secs when they are triggered to pump out.
One thing I will need to keep an eye on... the air coming out of the exhaust vent was VERY hot. I don't know what this might do to my solar vent. Luckily the vent pulls air out so at least air flow is in the correct direction but the AC unit might spin my solar fan more than it was designed for and ... 
This particular unit has a built in condensation function and vents moisture out the vent hose. There is a plug in the bottom of the unit to drain it but the owner's manual says that it is to be used only if the unit stops cooling. Normally it should not need draining. I guess that is another thing to keep my eye on.