Hi Pumpkipie.
First of all get yourself a new name. Seriously!
I will answer your question so stick with me. It is late at night here in Japan and rambles will happen.
So you are looking at a boat with a non functional hour meter and the seller claiming in has done 1500 hours.
You doubt that this is true because the boat was advertised a year ago with the same claim of 1500 hours.
Your question is "What do you think?"
I think , you are looking at a boat with a non functional hour meter and the seller claiming in has done 1500 hours.
You doubt that this is true because the boat was advertised a year ago with the same claim of 1500 hours.
Now, if I were selling a boat with non confirmable hours on the meter, I would under report. Wouldn't you?
This leaves you with the question, "The boat has an engine of questionable hours, so what condition is it in?"
That is the question. And the answer will come from the surveyor , who will have a clause in his/her contract that basically says all care, but no responsibility taken. He/ she will start the engine, listen to it and give an educated guess. That's all.
Another more scientific answer will come from an analysis of the engine and gearbox oil.
This will tell you the sulfides in the oil and so on and will give you an idea of how clean and efficient the engine is (maybe).
The last answer will come from your inspection and test run of the engine.
You are the buyer and the ultimate decision lies with you.
You have already said that the engine is clean externally. That is usually a good sign, but could also be meaningless.
So. Take a very strong flash light and a small mirror.
Check all of the engine cover bolts (front case, rocker cover. Pumps etc).
You are looking to see if the (original) paint around the bolts has been disturbed. This will tell you if the engine has been open for internal repairs. If they are noticable, ask what repairs were undertaken.
Check fuel lines and oil lines for abrasion or corrosion.
Check internal vee of pullies for wear. (cooling water pump and alternator). Also check for belt wear and dust from misaligned belts. Pulley wear will give you some indication of the amount of use the engine has had.
Check under engine for oil or fuel leaks.
Check engine mounts. Take a bar or lever and try to see if the mounts are still connected to the rubber.
Start the engine. Does it start first pop. If so that is a good sign. If the owner/seller tells you that the batteries are little low and it USUALLY starts first go, DOUBT IT!! Tell him you will come back when the batteries are charged.
Check engine exhaust for smoke (of any color) and the amount of discharge water, the more the better.(Water that is)
Check, how noisy is it . By noisy, I mean rattle noise.
Clicking and metal to metal noise is an indication of wear (or lack of adjustment/maintenance).
At the dock rev it as high as it will go. (this may scare the sh.t out of the seller but better for it to blow up before you buy it)
Tied up at the dock. check how smoothly it engages forward. reverse and neutral.
Leave the dock and take it for a run.
This is where other factors such as cleanliness of hull or prop will effect the engines performance.
How does it feel. Sloppy, tight, reliable?
That is about as far as you can check yourself.
Now. Jerry Clark has said that a couple of trips down the ICW would put that amount of hours on the engine, so the next question (to the seller) is where and how was she used? Why is there no log (of journeys)?
Also, what is the contact for the previous owner?
That is what is called due diligence. The engine check would take no more that 2 hours and you will need to know your way around down there anyway.
Tell the seller straight that you are ready to buy but just as ready to walk away if your concerns about the engine are not satisfied.
Pumpkinpie?
All the best
Gary
