Oil Change

Don S/V ILLusion · May 27, 2019

While the conventional wisdom is to do it prior to winter layup for you northerners, every engine manufacturer has generic recommendations which are more knowledgeable generally than “another sailor in the marina”.

Capt jgw · May 27, 2019

Most manufacturers recommend oil changes at 100 hours, but up here in snow country you'd have to try real hard to put that many hours on in one year. You should not store for the winter on used oil, it develops acids that can damage internal parts and any suspended particles will settle out as
sludge. So change the oil and filter every fall just before layup regardless of hours. Boats operated year round would use the 100 hour standard. I sometimes do mine while waiting in line for the travel lift. Engines still hot from the trip over and they're usually running behind schedule so I have the time. Then after haul out I use the leak check run to run the AF through the raw water side.

KZW · May 27, 2019

My boat is in the water year round (FL panhandle). I've averaged 30 hours on the engine each year. It takes but 0.3 hrs total round trip to get out and back into the marina. That being said, I change the oil and filters each fall. It is total overkill, but better safe than sorry. It isn't difficult and doesn't take much time.

KZW · May 27, 2019

Assuming you have a Universal M-25, the oil filter is forward, low on the port side of the engine. My engine has a drain hose on the starboard side. I have an oil extraction pump. Open the the oil drain hose, insert the extraction pump hose, pump up a few times and the oil is sucked into the pump container. Unscrew the oil filter and put on the new one after lubricating the ring with a bit of oil. The oil fill is on the top of the engine, a bit starboard and forward of engine center. I use an oil extraction pump because I've not found a drain pan I can place under the engine, and then get it out without spilling the oil.
Picture: You can see the oil filter, lower right (NAPA filter). The oil drain hose is lower left. The oil fill cap is hidden by the anti-freeze hoses on the top of the engine.

Ward H · May 27, 2019

When talking about drain oil I've seen it written many times: Do not remove the oil pan drain plug. They say it is almost impossible to get it properly seated so it does not leak after.
Use an oil extractor like KZW mentions and put it in the drain hose installed for the purpose. Some owners connect the extractor hose to the drain hose, some stick a tube down the drain hose.

BrianRobin · May 27, 2019

AwwShucks said:
Just wondering how often folks change the engine oil? I had mine changed last season when I had some other work done. I put about 15 hours on the engine since the last change, but spoke with another sailor in Marina that says he does his yearly due to prevent potential sludging issues from our winters in Mid-Atlantic. (Baltimore) Any thoughts and general commentary greatly appreciated. And if consensus is that I should change, is there a link for a how to? Thanks and hope all were able to get some sailing in this weekend.

I wouldn't worry much about not changing before winter as oil left in an engine drains into the base pan and will not touch any moving parts, only hangs to the pump pickup. I change mine 'cold',in the spring after it sits all winter. Now I know many disagree as warmer oil drains/pumps out quicker, but you also don't get as much out because of it being circulated throughout the engine and 'stuck' on internal parts, (of course this is just my opinion)

LeslieTroyer · May 27, 2019

I like to change every 100 hrs - and before I stop for the winter (do I??) I'm overdue for a change with about 150 hours since january. I also change the trans fluid at the same time.

Les

Benny17441 · May 27, 2019

Every 100 hours or once a year. Immediately if the engine overheats.

BrianRobin · May 28, 2019

Benny17441 said:
Every 100 hours or once a year. Immediately if the engine overheats.

If your engine overheats it's probably not due to a lack of an oil change or a cure for the overheating.

marchem · May 28, 2019

KZW said:
Assuming you have a Universal M-25, the oil filter is forward, low on the port side of the engine. My engine has a drain hose on the starboard side. I have an oil extraction pump. Open the the oil drain hose, insert the extraction pump hose, pump up a few times and the oil is sucked into the pump container. Unscrew the oil filter and put on the new one after lubricating the ring with a bit of oil. The oil fill is on the top of the engine, a bit starboard and forward of engine center. I use an oil extraction pump because I've not found a drain pan I can place under the engine, and then get it out without spilling the oil.
Picture: You can see the oil filter, lower right (NAPA filter). The oil drain hose is lower left. The oil fill cap is hidden by the anti-freeze hoses on the top of the engine.

+1 on the oil extractor. Take your time, let the oil settle for a minute after it seems to be empty and pump some more. Slide the tube up and down some to get as much out as you can. There's more oil than can fit in the small West Marine unit-wish I'd known that. Luckily I ended up with two of them, so I just switch over when the first is 2/3 full.

Putting the oil filter inside a baggie before removing (loosen it with an oil filter wrench a little bit first) helps to keep the amount of oil spilled to a minimum.

After the first time it will get a lot easier...

Parsons · May 28, 2019

I also thought this would be a complex task, but as noted above, it's a lot simpler than it looks. Check out this YouTube video by our own MaineSail on his Compass Marine site -

The Pela-brand of oil extractors are often recommended, which is what I got, but it's so basic that I'm certain many others will work fine. You just stick the suction hose into the oil drain or the dipstick hose, draw a vacuum with the pump, and wait for it to drain out. You may need a few more pumps midway through, to keep the vacuum high enough. Replace the filter by screwing it off (dripping oil everywhere, cleaning mess) and replacing. A plastic bin like are used to package mushrooms or veggies in the supermarket (no holes!) and plenty of paper towels are great things to have on-hand to catch drips from the filter or tubes.

Fill it with the manufacturer recommended viscosity oil, making sure it is Diesel lubricating oil (says so on the bottle). Do Not Overfill! Unlike the stuff in your gasoline car, it will immediately turn black due to mixing with the leftover oil in your sump, so do not be shocked when you check your brand-new oil level and it looks exactly like the stuff in the pump. Run and check for leaks around the filter. Oil is the absolute cheapest thing you can do to a diesel engine, so it pays to replace it at or before manufacturer recommended hours, and at least once a year.

Oil Change

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