Water in our bilge - from where?

Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
I agree that you don't want to have any more holes in your bottom, regardless of the depth, than you absolutely need. May I suggest a bit of 3M 4000 or 4200 polyurethane adhesive rather than silicone? I hate silicone anywhere on a boat as the residue is more difficult to remove than even 5200! A small tube of 4200 should be in everyone's tool box for such minor repairs. Don't go overboard and glue the entire surface of your block, just a couple strips will hold it in place. If you ever need to remove it, you'll be thankful. Also, you don't need to elevate the pump for the secondary, only the sensor switch if it's separate.
 
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Jan 22, 2008
309
Hunter 34 Herrington South, MD
Water leaks is a process of trial and error. We started with a hose at the back of the boat and kept the hose on specific spots for some length of time. Our boat is over 30 years old so the hose that drained the anchor locker had cracked. Found leaking port lights, leaking gaskets under deck water fill and waste pump out, and leaking "weatherproof" speakers. Just get someone to stand outside with a hose and do an area at a time. We also used pool test strips to insure that the "new" water was from the hose and not from rain or the bay.
 
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Jul 16, 2018
125
Hunter 40 Boston
I bought my 33 year old boat 6 months ago. It had spent 2 years mostly covered and on the hard. (mostly, because part of the cover had torn starboard of the companionway, and the PO had cut an opening over the transom to get in and out.)

When I took ownership, the bilge had maybe 10 gallons of water in it. I shop-vacced it out and came back a week later (Regretfully, the boat was stored far from home and I could only visit on weekends to prep it for splashing) the next week it had another 10 or so gallons in it. Repeated that process pretty much every week until I finally put her in the water.

I'm still hunting down all the leaks, but one thing my slip-neighbor taught me is that a little tiny spider-crack in the deck can act like a straw and siphon down a steady trickle of water to the interior. My old girl has literally dozens of locations totaling hundreds of spider cracks. But on top of that, every single evening that the boat was on the hard, water condensed due to the weather, and then trickled into the various voids and pockets throughout the boat. The rear cabin wood was completely saturated and ruined (mostly the bed frame) and I'm fairly certain that the space between the deck and the ceiling in the rear was not cored, but was really good at holding water. My scuppers had long been clogged with leaves from the boat hauler lot, and so whenever it rained, the rear deck would fill up with at least a few inches of stagnant water. I think it seeped in around the pedestal and stayed between the layers of glass.

Fast forward to now, 6 months later. I think being on the water has helped tremendously. Also I spent winter as a liveaboard under plastic with a dehumidifier running keeping it pretty dry (the saturated wood dried out too). I think just the wave motion from being at the slip through your average windy winter was enough to let all that trapped water finally find its way to the bilge.
I've got my agenda to re-bed all my deck hardware, and for now I've been finding all the spider cracks and using Captain Tolley's penetrating glue to seal them up. (Long term goal will be to sand down and repair the gelcoat, but I needed a quick-fix). Most particularly I have been using the penetrating glue along my gunwales. There's zero chance of me taking those rails off to re-bed them, so I don't mind the glue there. And the PO looked like maybe he'd tried some kind of silicone or other to stop water from seeping in under the rail.
The water in my bilge hasn't budged much lately, even after heavy rain. I do still have the occasional gremlin (really need to re-bed the pedestal, but I'm afraid once I start that I'll need to replace the whole thing) but the overall amount of water intrusion is waaay down.
I guess the "TL;DR" is that a boat that spends a long time on the hard is going to have water in all kinds of uncomfortable places and will take months to dry out.
 
Feb 14, 2014
7,418
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
little tiny spider-crack in the deck can act like a straw and siphon down a steady trickle of water to the interior
I would suggest that is the last place to look.
Following a crack is water's path of least resistance, but should not go inside your boat. Normally, as you noted, gel coat is for beauty. The deck is solid hand laid Fiberglass. The hull may have a core.
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Drying out the interior with your dehumidifier is a good way, as long as the outside humidity is low. If not low humidity, then air leaks will be an issue.

It took me a long time to stop all my leaks from the outside, but I found them.
Jim...
 
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