I am looking for suggestions on routing a furler line to the cockpit of my '87 Cat 22. I am looking at stanchion mounted blocks or fairleads so I don't have to make more holes in the deck. I'd love to see how others have done it, particularly how you routed the last section from the rail into the cockpit. Do you use a cam cleat or a horn cleat and where did you position it? How do you deal with all the line when it's furled? Thanks!
Routing a CDI 2 furler line to the cockpit
- Thread starter Coppertone
- Start date
Our line is run this way:
-Drum
-Micro block with swivel attached to lower ring on starboard side of pulpit.
-Though 3 fairleads mounted on the deck along where the starboard lifelines are.
-Horn cleat thu-bolted to the side of storage/winch mounting box. (Won't be adjusting regularly under sail so a horn cleat is perfect and it has no moving parts to fail later)
I used epoxy to fill the void between the deck and storage box to strengthen the cleat mounting location. The original owner simply bolted it through. Not much load but i would rather have it stronger than needed.
If you are not in a hurry I can take photos when the boat is out of storage in a couple weeks.
-Drum
-Micro block with swivel attached to lower ring on starboard side of pulpit.
-Though 3 fairleads mounted on the deck along where the starboard lifelines are.
-Horn cleat thu-bolted to the side of storage/winch mounting box. (Won't be adjusting regularly under sail so a horn cleat is perfect and it has no moving parts to fail later)
I used epoxy to fill the void between the deck and storage box to strengthen the cleat mounting location. The original owner simply bolted it through. Not much load but i would rather have it stronger than needed.
If you are not in a hurry I can take photos when the boat is out of storage in a couple weeks.
The most important placement is the fairlead behind the CDI drum. The line must exit at a 90 degree angle. My line ended at a clutch
Much the same as Leewards layout. Except you can get Stanchion mounted bulls eye fairleads. I prefer the Spinlock version on WM's site (or even Am**z*n.com). Set up a Ronstan or Spinlock fairlead block (fairlead with a cleat) in the cockpit, or a simple cleat may suffice (fairlead block is better. I mounted our cleats adjacent to the Genoa sheet cleat for ease of switching when deploying the furler or haling it in.
@Milton.Audas suggestions are great. Stanchion mounted fairleads save work and making holes in the deck.
I prefer the deck mounted ones since they keep the line nice and low. But installation is a lot more work, not to mention maintenance on the additional deck holes.
Here are photos taken before we owned the boat.
Since then, I added the block near the drum.
I prefer the deck mounted ones since they keep the line nice and low. But installation is a lot more work, not to mention maintenance on the additional deck holes.
Here are photos taken before we owned the boat.
Since then, I added the block near the drum.
You put the fairleads on the outside of the stanchions to avoid banging your ankles against them. A block mounted low on the pushpit stanchion can lead it back to a cleat, which can be on the fiberglass or the stanchion itself.
I like these because they are simple and inexpensive:
https://shop.catalinaowners.com/prod.php?13920
Harken makes a nice kit:
https://shop.catalinaowners.com/prod.php?11667
https://shop.catalinaowners.com/prod.php?13920
Harken makes a nice kit:
https://shop.catalinaowners.com/prod.php?11667
Think this is good advice, and I suppose it would apply to a hanked on jib downhaul as well. I mounted stanchion fairleads inboard for that, going to move them to outboard to save ankles. (as long as it doesn't interfere with the jibsheet, will experiment)...
For fairleads just make your own. 1/2 to 1 in PVC cut in 1 or so inch pieces, filed smooth and installed with a zip tie or rigging tape. No holes, no major cost, easily movable, and easily tucks into the support bases to save your feet. I did this last year and it cost me $0 as I had the scrap PVC laying around. Its a trailerable 22 foot boat dont overthink this as there are alot of other places to spend boat $$ on.
I used stanchion blocks (two of them) for my Oday 23, leading the furling line back to the cockpit. The line "terminates" at the cockpit with a swivel cam cleat I had lying around the house. The cam cleat is bolted to a piece of starboard I cut to size, and the starboard is u-bolted to the stanchion. The line is then coiled and hung from the lifeline. This is much more secure, convenient and easier to use (and looks neater) than my first set up; before I had a small cleat affixed to the outside of the coaming. In the first iteration of this project, the cam cleat was mounted on a piece of epoxied and varnished plywood. The plywood looked weathered before the end of the first season. No matter what maintenance I did, the deterioration continued.
The starboard looks exactly the same now as the day I installed it.
Thanks for all the input. I think I'm going to use the stanchions to keep from putting holes in the deck for fairleads. I am thinking of a 40mm Harken lead block, then a couple of the little Spinlock stanchion lead blocks, hopefully fitting at the very bottom of the stanchions between the braces. The line would lead to a horn cleat on the outboard surface of the cockpit, somewhere near the Catalina 22 lettering, forward of the winch. That way I can stow the line in the cubbyhole while underway and the line will be low to the deck and the cleat won't be in the cockpit or on the rim with the winches and the sheet cleats. It seems to me the line coming off the stanchion just forward of the cockpit will have a good angle to the horn cleat.