Somehow my strut got bent, I think boatyard but no time for blame game, I just want to fix it. I got driveshaft off, and now just have to remove strut. The screws are totally wedged in, I removed bolts on inside and washers (after pic was taken), have tried wiggling screws (one is pretty threaded) and just hitting them with a hammer from inside but they are not going anywhere. I have to replace strut so don't care about damaging it to get it off. Any ideas would be very appreciated. It has been on there for 30 odd years!!
I have been through the experience. I would approach it in the following order:
- Use a wrench and a cross bit to turn the screws in either direction (turning them is easier than hammering)
- Use two nuts on the screws to lock them up, then a bigger wrench on both nuts to give you leverage
- Use a dremel to shape the screws in a way that allows you to grab them with a wrench
- Drill through from the outside
You can get an original strut from HunterOwnwers.com.
Good luck.
SV Pizzazz
- Use a wrench and a cross bit to turn the screws in either direction (turning them is easier than hammering)
- Use two nuts on the screws to lock them up, then a bigger wrench on both nuts to give you leverage
- Use a dremel to shape the screws in a way that allows you to grab them with a wrench
- Drill through from the outside
You can get an original strut from HunterOwnwers.com.
Good luck.
SV Pizzazz
Good advice above. You could also try penetrating oil from the inside out. The screws look like SS correct? If so, be careful not to shear them off. Drilling SS is 'difficult'... An impact wrench might work to get them moving after PB Blaster or heat. I assume your strut assembly is bronze so the two metals should expand at different rates if you take a torch to it (carefully).
Thank you all three of you, some great ideas there! Will give it a shot and report back.
Berner73, how would you use the impact wrench, I am not clear
Berner73, how would you use the impact wrench, I am not clear
Hopefully you will not find that the strut has been glued to the bottom of the boat with 5200. When I removed mine to re-align it, I made sure the strut was not bonded to the hull. The only thing you need is sealant for the screws.
Here is a link to my description of installing/aligning my strut.
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...ving-strut.180524/&highlight=allan12210 strut
Here is a link to my description of installing/aligning my strut.
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...ving-strut.180524/&highlight=allan12210 strut
Hunter prop struts and shafts
Props, keys, shafts, struts, cutless bearings and shaft logs. We guarantee fit!
See the product
I would imagine that you will have to hit them pretty hard. Just keep at it. I doubt penetrating oil will do anything as they are probably "glued" in with the sealant. You may have to do some fiberglass repair if the holes are damaged on the way out. Also, there is always time for the blame game. This is a common problem with boatyards. They run the strap over the prop shaft when hauling it out and it bends the strut and/or the shaft. You should carefully check your prop shaft as well.
I hear you. Problem is I didn't see them do it, it was on the way in, so I spent the season weirdly under-powered but brushed it off as I use sail most of the time anyway. Only when I got it out at end of season could I see for sure. Lesson learned, always hand turn the prop when it is in the air. And prop shaft needs replacing too, was ground down quite a bit by me using it with the bent strut.
There is a product called DeBond which I have used to soften up 5200 and eventually separate whatever it was holding. Don't know if it is still available. Try using an impact tool to unscrew the 4 SS screws. That will break the bond in the caulking (or 5200) that they were surrely bedded in upon installation. When bond broken, unscrew and remove the 4 SS screws. Once they are off you should be able to carefully pry the strut off, cutting off whatever caulking or 5200 as you go. You will need to clean the strut area perfectly before installing new one. As for the shaft, it was probably easy to remove because the bent strut put it off center! No so if new strut is installed as it is in line with the rudder. I installed the cutlass bearing on the strut, then inserted the shaft through the cutlass bearing on the new strut and then then slipped it through the packing gland before installing the strut. That avoided having to drop the rudder or lift the engine. Having help makes it relatively simple as you can have one man inside first guiding the shaft under the engine then installing the washers and nuts on the screws that you push in from under the boat. Good luck
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Go for the debond. Strut is most probably glued with 5200. Impact wrench and other similar hitting devices won’t work as the 5200 absorbs the energy because the movement is small and 5200 is elastic. Apply Debond several times, then with a double/triple nut on the bolt, get the bolt turning, apply lots of force. Remove all bolts this way. Then apply same method for the strut. Apply lots of force, do not hammer.
Yup strut was easy to remove as it was off kilter, one of the few blessings. And yes the plan is to push strut through shaft before attaching new strut, thanks for reminder. I found some debond on amazon so will order some and give it a go. Heading to boat tomorrow to try a few of the other ideas first.
Ok update, it is funny that once done it all seems so simple. I used the three bolt trick to loosen them, but the nuts just kept turning so I switched to two locking nuts, and managed to get purchase with that. I have a very long socket wrench and needed all the leverage that gave. Once they were all out the strut just popped out super easy, I was very surprised! Ordering new one this week. Thanks for all your help and advice, I was quoted 8k by marina to do this job, more than the boat is worth! I may still need them to line it all up once done, but for now, it feels good to do it myself and save the money.
One more question..
The strut was bent for a while so draft shaft was grinding against hull hole whenever I used engine, so hole is enlarged on one side which was letting a little too much water in. Any idea about how to make whole smaller again so new drive shaft just fits through. Or will just checking packing do it all? Pic below.
The strut was bent for a while so draft shaft was grinding against hull hole whenever I used engine, so hole is enlarged on one side which was letting a little too much water in. Any idea about how to make whole smaller again so new drive shaft just fits through. Or will just checking packing do it all? Pic below.
Hi
I know it’s been a while but I was wondering if the rudder was offset to pull the shaft or did you need to drop the rudder?
after reading the post wow so glad you got that off, how did you repair the hole?
I know it’s been a while but I was wondering if the rudder was offset to pull the shaft or did you need to drop the rudder?
after reading the post wow so glad you got that off, how did you repair the hole?
Recently replaced my shaft, cutlass, mounts, coupling. During the process I had to drop the rudder, not a big deal, I used a hydralic car jack to drop it in steps and then life was easy. The shaft was not coming out if the rudder stayed in place. But since your cutlass is bent, install the shaft with the cutlass on it. For the most part follow the advice of the reply above from Blissfollower, it will lead you to another posting that really gives a great step by step. Good luck.
Different boat, but rudder in line with shaft. I removed the stuffing box and the cutlass bearing…gave me just enough lateral slop to get the shaft out last the rudder. It took some paint off as it slid by, but I did not want to mess with the rudder.
Got a new 1” shaft back in the same way, close…but just enough room to squeeze the new shaft in.
Greg
Got a new 1” shaft back in the same way, close…but just enough room to squeeze the new shaft in.
Greg
