1997 H-336 Running cables from stern to bow

[antoineH336]

Hello all H-336 and H-340 owner!

My back is telling me it's time to install a windlass ans I would like to know if any of you have already embrace this endeavour?

I'm hoping to find something similar to the original setup on the H-336 (Simpson Lawerance Anchorman 800) in order to install the windlass just behind the anchor bow roller. My goal would be to find a 1000W from which I would be run 0/1 Gauge cable from stern to bow.

Any advice or tips would be very appreciated!

Many thanks

Antoine

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Probably the best advise is to not do that. Rather, locate a battery forward in close proximity avoiding the voltage drop, expense of two cables and the effort involved. Interconnecting the new battery to your charging system is much less problematic

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

This is not the place you want to go with gut feelings and maybe's. Time for some solid calculations. And of course, here come the naysayers .

Calculate the amperage of your winch (watts/voltage). Measure the length of the circuit (round trip). Calculate the wire you need (table attached) allowing for about a 1V drop (not as good as a 5% drop but better than a 10% drop). Remember, the windlass motor is rated for 12 V and you will have your alternator and all batteries contributing when using your windlass so your supply will probably be in the 13.5V range. You'll be treating your windlass like an armstrong windlass so it's doubtful you'll see an 83A draw.

The windlass I installed is a Lewmar V1, rated for 960 watts, uses #2 AWG wire, sees less than a 1V drop when raising the anchor through 300 feet and the motor barely warms. Never had a hiccup yet, except when the anchor gets stuck in concrete gumbo here in Montague Harbour. Then it's time to cleat the windlass and use the engine and bouncing hull to break free.

 

[antoineH336]

Thanks for the advice Don! I might be wrong but I think it’s preferable to invest time and money to do it the same way windlass are setup when they are originally installed by manufacturer, at least on 33 footers.

Thanks for your input Ralph. I’m planning to install a Maxwell RC8-8 1000W on a 12V system. I have an Electromaax 140amps alternator connected to 2 X 150amps 12V batteries in parallel. Those are my crank batteries. I also have 2 X 110amps 6V batteries in series use as my deep cycle power source.I guess that Crank batteries are better suited for windlass purpose, so that would be my source to connect the 135 Amp Circuit Breaker/Isolator that is coming with the Maxwell RC8-8.

From my battery bank to my windlass, I calculate a 60’ length round trip. So if I do read correctly your chart, I should be good to go with 00 AWG cables…? Now, as Don was mentioning, I might have fun with the wiring, but this should be the right approach to make this right!

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

The way I would size the electric hoses (crew's terminology, not mine) is as follows.

Motor wattage = 1,000W
Amperage draw = 1,000W / 12V = 83A
Allowable voltage drop = 1V (by choice)

Looking at the Blue Sea chart:

#2 AWG wire has a resistance of 0.16 ohm / 1,000 ft. (#2 AWG is just an approximation)
60 ft. of #2 wire has a resistance of (60 / 1000) X 0.16 = 0.0096 ohm
Using Ohm's Law, E = I X R where E is the voltage drop along the length of the wire.
E = 83 X 0.0096 = 0.80V
We got lucky in this try and using #2 AWG will give us less than 1V line loss. Had we chosen #3 wire, the loss would be (0.21 / 0.16) X 0.80V = 1.05V which is closer but we still want to allow for a bit of resistance at the connections. If you go ahead with using 00 AWG, the voltage drop will be (0.081 / .16) X 0.8 = 0.41V. This costs more, requires more work, and accomplishes nothing. Looking at your alternator output, you're way ahead of the game using #2 wire.

As far as running the wire, I packed both into a 1" split loom conduit and stuffed it up under the curtain valence in the salon. Other places, it was run behind wall coverings. It's held in place with oversized pieces of foam rubber jammed under the conduit. Not the best, but I've not been able to come up with anything better. Our boats are close in age but I don't know if your interior is similar to mine due to the difference in length.

 

[jssailem]

Antoine. I bought my windlass right here SBO Forum Shop from @Dave Groshong . Great to work with. I have a CAL35C that displaces 6800kg. I chose the Lewmar V3 in part due to the writeup in Practical Sailor and the suggestion of many that “you’ll never be upset with a too big windlass on a stormy night”.

We installed it on my bow.

The motor is below deck out of the storm. The install was one afternoon with help from my friend and competent sailor @LeslieTroyer . We ran cables along the hull to midship battery box.
Remember. You will have the motor running and charging the batteries when you are using the windlass to retrieve the anchor. @Ralph Johnstone nailed the info. You can also check the WIdlass manufacturer’s recommendations as to what they recommend. Know that the less voltage drop the more efficient the motor will work when you need it.

 

[antoineH336]

Thanks @Ralph Johnstone , your example is very enlightening to me! With your formula, I will be better equip to select the right size for the cables once I’ve completely figured out the exact length it will require to route everything from bow to stern. I will also take into consideration the fact that resistance will be added by the solenoid pack and the circuit breaker. The interior layout is a bit different in the 366. I guess there will be enough room behind the edge of the roof top if there is already wires for the lights and speaker. I would install the solenoid in the room closet find my way up to the windlass from there.



I’ve went to the marina last weekend to check the space available between the Stainless Steel Bow Roller and the anchor well, and from the specs given by Maxwell, I will have a tight fit with ¾ inch room on each side, but the windlass will be sitting on a strong part of the bow.

I was not able to get inside the boat, since there was just too much ice, but from what I remember, the drop and the room for the chain will more than enough, based on requirements proposed and advertised.

Even if this will be a challenging project, I feel super thrilled about it

 

[jssailem]

It is a great addition to your boat. I am thrilled about mine.
Now we just need some good weather to go out and take advantage of it.

Beginning to look like the weather we had on our sailing adventure.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Antoine,

Your interior seem to be a mirror image of mine. If you have (what I call them) curtain valences on both sides of the salon, you've got it made for the most visible part of the wire run.

I can't see the most forward part of your V berth but I've got to wonder if you've got a containment compartment separate from the anchor locker for your windlass motor and relay. It allows an opportunity to mount your motor and relay in a warm (just sometimes) and dry environment and avoid the insanely corrosive environment of the anchor locker.

I threw together a few shots of mine going in way back when and posted them here in the archives but they seem to have migrated over the years. This may give you a few ideas when mounting yours although the windlasses are different brands.