New member, novice sailor, couple questions

Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
Good afternoon Cecil, if I've understood the guys correctly the part we're missing is called a boom kicker I think. It's a round or flat piece of aluminum that has a knurled nut or thumb screw on it that slides into the mast slot below the gooseneck, and once tightened prevents the boom from completely sliding down when the main is lowered (found them on SBO store and west marine sites). The eyelet on mine should have a line that leads to a cleat lower on my mast to prevent the boom from riding up under sail (similar to a Cunningham I believe).
That's the ring on the gooseneck- called a downhaul. Line goes to a cleat to hold the luff tight. In your very first picture it's upside down. That part pulls aout against spring tension and turns. An older way of reefing.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,425
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Good afternoon Cecil, if I've understood the guys correctly the part we're missing is called a boom kicker I think. It's a round or flat piece of aluminum that has a knurled nut or thumb screw on it that slides into the mast slot below the gooseneck, and once tightened prevents the boom from completely sliding down when the main is lowered (found them on SBO store and west marine sites). The eyelet on mine should have a line that leads to a cleat lower on my mast to prevent the boom from riding up under sail (similar to a Cunningham I believe).
A boom kicker is a device with one or more fiberglass rods that goes from the base of the mast to the boom. Here's a link: http://www.boomkicker.com

Sail track stops go in the slot below the lowest sail slug to keep the sail from dropping out of the slot into which the slug is inserted. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/davis-instruments--sail-track-stops--P002_068_001_505?recordNum=2

That's the ring on the gooseneck- called a downhaul. Line goes to a cleat to hold the luff tight. In your very first picture it's upside down. That part pulls aout against spring tension and turns. An older way of reefing.
That's why the gooseneck looked so funny, it is upside down! :confused:

The Cunningham is a line or a small block and tackle that goes from a cringe (grommet) a few inches above the tack (the grommet in the corner) to a fitting on the base of the mast. This controls luff tension which can shape the sail by moving the draft forward. The downhaul @Charlie Jones s/v Tehani mentions serves a similar purpose for luff tensioning, but he bigger purpose is to keep the gooseneck in the right place and not let it slide out of the track.
 
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Sep 26, 2018
10
Sirius 21 Trailer in Saskatchewan
The topping lift has nothing to do with an anchor. It is a line from the upper part (top?) of the mast to the aft end of the boom. Properly tightened, it keeps the boom from falling on people or into the cockpit. //// You'd use a knot to attach the anchor, but the type is open to debate.
I guess my point is, if you only read three words in a post then make up your own question, then you can make any answer fit. It's not important what the original post was about.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,425
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I guess my point is, if you only read three words in a post then make up your own question, then you can make any answer fit. It's not important what the original post was about.
I'm not sure I'm following your train of thought. The OP asked about keeping the boom from falling down:

but what holds said boom up when we decide to lower the main? Not sure giving my wife a boom induced headache would do me any good.
One of the answers to that question is a topping lift, or a boom kicker, or a rigid vang. The topping lift perhaps being he least expensive and most easily adopted solution.
 
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
I'm not sure I'm following your train of thought. The OP asked about keeping the boom from falling down:

One of the answers to that question is a topping lift, or a boom kicker, or a rigid vang. The topping lift perhaps being he least expensive and most easily adopted solution.
Particularly on an 18 footer :)
 
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
Unsupervised- I'm currently working with friends who are getting a Sanibel 18 ready to sail. They are somewhat novice sailors, but anxious :) If I can assist in any way, get in touch. happy to help
 
Oct 19, 2017
7,746
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
Four questions in the op.
1. What can be used to hold the boom up when sail is lowered?
2. What can clean the spots off the sails?
3. What isn't right about the spreaders?
4. Do I need a backstay?

There were 5 basic questions answered.
1. The boom can be held up with a topping lift, a boom kicker, a rigid vang or a backstay pigtail (see answer 4 here).
2. Oxiclean.
3. They look poorly repaired and jury rigged, maybe a couple of different times.
4. No backstay. She appears to be a B&R rig.
5. The gooseneck looks like it is upside down.

By the way. If you set the topping lift to take the load only after the boom has dropped a couple of inches when the sail is lowered, you don't need to loosen it everytime you set the main. If you over night it, you might want a boom tent. The ability to raise the boom higher with your topping lift is nice.

-Will (Dragonfly)
 
Jan 30, 2019
21
Captiva Yachts Inc Sanibel 17/18 Belleview
Thank you to everyone for your help, now on to other news...she's officially mine (took today off for title and registration transfer)!!:clap: Since I was left "unsupervised " I stretched the sails out to see what I have, turns out 1 main, 1 jib, and a Genoa. Question about the hanks and sail lugs, most of the pins on the hanks move, some however need a little encouragement, replace or refurbish? The lugs are plastic and the UV hasn't been nice to them, do they come in aluminum by chance?
 

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Jan 30, 2019
21
Captiva Yachts Inc Sanibel 17/18 Belleview
Oh, almost forgot...question of curiosity, would a 54lb thrust trolling motor be enough to get my boat in and out of the launch (as I don't currently have a kicker for it)? Our local lake has a funky double L dock that can be kinda tight when it gets busy.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,425
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Thank you to everyone for your help, now on to other news...she's officially mine (took today off for title and registration transfer)!!:clap: Since I was left "unsupervised " I stretched the sails out to see what I have, turns out 1 main, 1 jib, and a Genoa. Question about the hanks and sail lugs, most of the pins on the hanks move, some however need a little encouragement, replace or refurbish? The lugs are plastic and the UV hasn't been nice to them, do they come in aluminum by chance?
Welcome to the wonderful world of boat ownership! :D Be sure to lose any receipts from the boat stores before your significant other finds them. ;)

A trolling motor should be fine for short distances. Be sure to secure the battery so it doesn't slide around and is easy to access so you can recharge it.

Shop around, but piston hanks are not that inexpensive (for example: https://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=piston hanks). So I'd be inclined to try and clean them up. At around a buck a piece, sail slugs are cheap, I'd buy a bunch and replace them as they fail (https://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=sail slugs) There are likely other sources for these items, it was just very easy to find them on Sailrite. Try looking in the SBO store too.

To free up the hanks, I'd try Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster being very careful to keep the fluid off of the sail. A little probably won't hurt, but too much might weaken the fabric. If you try to remove them, the tab may break.
 
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Oct 19, 2017
7,746
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
Congratulations. You are off to a great start.
55# Minn Kota would work to get you to and from the dock and ramp on a quiet day. Pretty undersized to get you out of any trouble like hard wind and chop. There are Mariner 19 owners who use them without complaint, but that is a lighter boat at 1500#. I'm getting an 86# thrust motor for mine because above that, they move up to 36V. Newport Vessels makes them for saltwater at a better price than Minn Kota, with great reviews.

-Will (Dragonfly)
 

JRT

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Feb 14, 2017
2,048
Catalina 310 211 Lake Guntersville, AL
Ya, I would not start throwing money at the sails, if you have 3 sails and they are Neil Pryde Sails, I bet they are original and not that great based on the hank condition for sure. That slider doesn't look correct for the mast, it should be a flat slider. That on is probably for the clew and I bet that main is also attached to the boom the along the foot, which is also just terrible for adjusting sail shape. Save your money and get new sails. Did we mention D&R is your new best friend in O'Day parts that SBO doesn't stock?

http://www.drmarine.com/products.asp?cat=187


I explored the thrust motor option too, but my lake get's pretty rolly and even some small baby white caps, which I learned is a hint I should not take the wife out on the lake. A new Tohatsu 6hp 25" shaft is $1630.99, free shipping, 5 year warranty and a easy starting motor that is great on gas.

https://onlineoutboards.com/collect...atsu-6-hp-mfs6csproul-sail-pro-outboard-motor
 
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Jan 30, 2019
21
Captiva Yachts Inc Sanibel 17/18 Belleview
Good morning all, sorry it's been a hot minute since I've posted, been installing new parts and rigging. We finally got her out on the lake and had a great time. The general consensus from the family on a scale of 1-10 is a 8.5!! Everyone enjoyed it!! I ended up coming across a 70# minn kota which pushes my little boat just fine. We had a few hiccups, 2 of the little plastic deals that hold the sail slugs on the main broke, we couldn't get the main raised to the top of the mast, oh and she's taking on water. We found the water intrusion problem is that pesky CB pivot bolt, I don't think the PO took maintenance or repairs seriously. That's it so far, I'll be in touch with more pics and updates as soon as I'm able. And I want to thank everyone again for the great advice and answers.
 

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Jan 11, 2014
11,425
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Good morning all, sorry it's been a hot minute since I've posted, been installing new parts and rigging. We finally got her out on the lake and had a great time. The general consensus from the family on a scale of 1-10 is a 8.5!! Everyone enjoyed it!! I ended up coming across a 70# minn kota which pushes my little boat just fine. We had a few hiccups, 2 of the little plastic deals that hold the sail slugs on the main broke, we couldn't get the main raised to the top of the mast, oh and she's taking on water. We found the water intrusion problem is that pesky CB pivot bolt, I don't think the PO took maintenance or repairs seriously. That's it so far, I'll be in touch with more pics and updates as soon as I'm able. And I want to thank everyone again for the great advice and answers.
A family activity with an 8.5 approval rating? Go for it!

Those plastic deals are called slugs. These degrade in the sun and break. Most chandleries that cater to small sailboats will have some, or check Sailrite.com or Defender.com or even here on SBO. These are not expensive, shipping will probably cost more the slugs. Get extras.

The main will probably not reach the top of the mast. The luff of the sail should be reasonably taut. This is one of those art of sailing deals. For a while you'll have it too taut or too loose. Eventually you'll get the tension correct. Reading about sail trim helps. Next time you have the main raised, take a photo showing the top of the mast and post it.

That patch on the pivot bolt is poorly done. There is not enough resin in the glass. If I was to do the repair I'd think about some sort of more durable backing plate glassed to the CB trunk. Something substantial that the bolt can bear on.

In the mean time, keep enjoying!
 
Oct 19, 2017
7,746
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
Congratulations on your initial introduction into sailing. :clap:

Thanks for returning with the update and the pictures. You will soon be a seasoned veteran spouting jargon and answering other people's questions with expertise.

The CB bolt is one of the most common places for water intrusion. Here's a link to an SBO discussion about that very issue:
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...-fix-a-leaking-centerboard-pivot-bolt.165760/

Thanks again for sharing.

-Will (Dragonfly)
 
Oct 22, 2014
352
Pearson P303 #221 RockPort Maine
Welcome to SBO here! I use to own a Precision 18 many years ago so you might look at the web site for parts needed too. One chemical I found that is the most UNDERUSED for most boat stains including rust etc... Is BarKeepers soap. You can buy this at any store's and hardware stores too. It's a white powder that has no abrasive properties to it. With a toothbrush can be directed right to the spots you need cleaning. When done just rinse fresh water and a little soap. Cost here is $1.49. NOTE: This is NOT Comet powder that IS abrasive when used. Best regards, Capt. Rob
http://www.precisionboatworks.com/parts/parts.php?boat=P-18
There is a lot of info here. Good luck
 
Oct 22, 2014
21,104
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Congratulations on the boat coming home with you, You figured how to get it rigged, you got all aboard out onto the water, and you got an 8.5 rating for the event. This is the trifecta of boat success.
Cheers.
Enjoy the moment. And the many more that are surely to come.

As Dave has pointed out the centerboard patch bolt hole needs more work. It will temporarily hold but it will breakdown and again leak. The problem is not only the water splashing in but the centerboard slapping about in the well. Water splashing up in the well is normal.
 
Jan 30, 2019
21
Captiva Yachts Inc Sanibel 17/18 Belleview
I definitely agree with the shoddy repair to the CB trunk. I'm torn between glassing in stainless plates or marine grade plywood, and access to the starboard side is going to be difficult as there is only a 4" inspection hatch to work thru. One option I have considered is just getting a larger port, but am unsure if that would adversely affect the strength of the footwell (sorry, lack of a better term and no pic of it either). Any suggestions?

I also took a look at the CB itself (haven't removed it yet, want to get measurements for spacers while it's still in the trunk). It looks to me like the bolt hole thru the CB is wallowed out, so I'll have to sleeve it or upsize the hardware. Any thoughts or advice on that issue?

Basic plan so far is make my own CB pivot bolt and washer setup as suggested in the thread (thanks will ), and reinforce the trunk. Not sure about the CB yet until I get it down and out.
 
Oct 22, 2014
21,104
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
For best ideas perhaps a picture from further away to give us context would help us closet engineers with more info on existing structure.