I'm about to replace the cabin sole on my H34. The holding and water tanks are held in by strapping that seems to require a strapping machine. How can I remount the tanks after I replace the sole?
Replacing water tank and holding tank strapping
- Thread starter Mike Oldak
- Start date
When I did mine I just used a couple of light ratchet straps. I'm pretty sure that I was able to use the original anchors to connect the straps to. Keeping the foam insulation between the hull and the water tank was a pain. Are you planning on using the old foam insulation or making new?
Ratchet straps for holding tank, good idea! Water tank my buddy has the freshwater bladder bag type tanks that are not original on his H34 and I don't believe they use straps. If I remember correctly I believe the edge of the bag tank has attachment grommets molded into the bag. You might want to contact some bladder bag water tank manufacturers and see what the have to offer if you have not bought the tanks. I personally don't like the water bladder tanks because i am afraid that I would puncture them.
Is there a proper width for new main cabin sole pieces that will fit down the companion way on my Hunter 34?
Mike,
Unfortunately the cabin sole was installed before the top decking was installed. I just recently replaced mine, and I kinda cheated.
I used plasic sheething to make exact templates of only the sole sections that were visible around all the cabinetry. My sole was not rotted it was just stained and veneer was just delaminated . So I made the templates out of marine grade 1/2 inch play wood that I bought at and then glued teak and holly tongue and grove on top of it. The teak and holly wood flooring I got from maritime wood products. Worked out great, looked just like factory but better because it is solid wood instead of the cheep veneer garbage the the factory installed 35 years ago.
Only one big miss calculation!
The templates I took so much time and effort to fabricate.
Did not fit thru the companion way!! CRAP !!
They missed by at least a foot or more.
So I had to cut them in half to fit. That really sucked because that was what I was trying so hard to avoid.
Unfortunately the cabin sole was installed before the top decking was installed. I just recently replaced mine, and I kinda cheated.
I used plasic sheething to make exact templates of only the sole sections that were visible around all the cabinetry. My sole was not rotted it was just stained and veneer was just delaminated . So I made the templates out of marine grade 1/2 inch play wood that I bought at and then glued teak and holly tongue and grove on top of it. The teak and holly wood flooring I got from maritime wood products. Worked out great, looked just like factory but better because it is solid wood instead of the cheep veneer garbage the the factory installed 35 years ago.
Only one big miss calculation!
The templates I took so much time and effort to fabricate.
Did not fit thru the companion way!! CRAP !!
They missed by at least a foot or more.
So I had to cut them in half to fit. That really sucked because that was what I was trying so hard to avoid.
That's a bummer.
When you said "cut them in half", was the cut with the strips or perpendicular to them?
If it was with the strips, finding a way to make the plywood tongue-and-grouve and them putting the strips down so there was a strip-joint right on the plywood joint, then take them below and glue 'em together could have been a work-around.
A Plan-B would be to not go the tongue-and-grouve route but drill dowel holes every few inches the length of the two pieces then do the same thing and glue them together.
I have a setup for joining countertop sections, like for a 90º corner, this way and it works really well.
Of course, now that it's done maybe the idea might help someone else.
Hunter striping decals
Vinyl striping in official factory colors for most Hunter models. Many colors and sizes in stock!
See the product
John Nantz,
Sorry for the confusion.
I had to cut the plywood templates in half which I used as a sub floor, then I cut all of the teak and holly flooring to fit inside the boat.
After the sub floor templates were installed on top of the original sole I installed the teak and holly flooring. The teak and holly flooring was all tongue and grove, that was the easy part of the installation. It installs just like regular hardwood flooring in a house except it is glued to the plywood. Believe it was sold in 8' X 2" lengths and the holly strips were 1/4"
Like I said the flooring was the easy part, the plywood wood sub floor was a SOB
Sorry for the confusion.
I had to cut the plywood templates in half which I used as a sub floor, then I cut all of the teak and holly flooring to fit inside the boat.
After the sub floor templates were installed on top of the original sole I installed the teak and holly flooring. The teak and holly flooring was all tongue and grove, that was the easy part of the installation. It installs just like regular hardwood flooring in a house except it is glued to the plywood. Believe it was sold in 8' X 2" lengths and the holly strips were 1/4"
Like I said the flooring was the easy part, the plywood wood sub floor was a SOB
I plan on using the same foam but adding some additional subfloor supports due to a seam being proposed under the water tank.
Mike - what ever happened to the tank strapping part of the thread? Did you come up with a solution?
